Exhaust - how much is too much? |
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Donald80SN
Grand Poobah Joined: January-12-2009 Location: Denver, NC Status: Offline Points: 3896 |
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Posted: June-08-2013 at 9:50pm |
Also check e-bay, sometimes there are used mufflers for sale. I would use this as an opportunity to go with a Y-Pipe. However, that is a easy FRP repair.
Donald |
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CCFcourt
Groupie Joined: October-04-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 44 |
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Thanks for the replies. I'm doing my "homework reading" now...
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Ski Nautique 94
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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There's also been discussion about the Y-Pipe Conversion, where you just get rid of the Muffler all together. I know in the past that Race City Marine and Boat Dr. at My Correct Craft Parts were mentioned as sources for the kit. You just have to make sure you get the right dimensions. Because, your boat most likely has the larger 3.5" exhaust manifold opening and most of the older ones have 3"
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21393&title=y-pipe-exhaust |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Court,
Do an onsite search or sometimes a Google/CCfan works better for the threads involving glass repair on mufflers. There are several threads that are very informative about the fiberglass repair. Use epoxy resin! |
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CCFcourt
Groupie Joined: October-04-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 44 |
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I'm excited. I've got a great team behind me and I'm all in...
I took the hose off. Pretty obvious that the muffler has a problem. You can see in the picture that the end of the muffler is cracked and broken. This leads me to many questions and probably some I don't know I have yet: 1. How long should the port of the muffler be? 2. What are the steps to remove the muffler fully? Since this side is so broken, I could pull it apart enough to take a picture, but how do you pull the incoming ports off and the outgoing port off and have enough clearance to remove the entire muffler? Do I need to remove the outgoing hose all the way to the exhaust at the back of the boat or is there a better (I hope) way? 3. How do I fiberglass and how do I fiberglass to make it round in tolerance? Is there a ready known cylinder of some sort I put in there and glass around? I know nothing about this so all help is appreciated (where do I get what supplies, etc). 4. Shown in one of the pictures below, I see a screw that was put right into the side of the muffler before my time. Is that normal? Should I take it out and glass over it as I'm doing the rest of this? Do I need a new muffler?! If I'm in over my head say so... otherwise I look forward to your instructions to get me back in the water! Thanks for all the posts so far. Pictures below: |
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Ski Nautique 94
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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I noticed most of the focus is on the exhaust hoses, and that seems to be the right path.
Just one thing I'll throw into the mix, is that an overly rich running carb will produce some pretty pungent smelling exhaust as well. See if the exhaust coming out of the stern of the boat has a dark color to it. Some staining around the stern could be an indicator as well. |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13514 |
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Exhaust smell in the cabin is not normal. Dry out the bilge then start the boat without going anywhere and find where that water is coming from.
No sealant is needed in the entire exhaust system. Draw a line at the ends of the suspected short hoses and then remove them. This will tell you how far the are up the flanges. Don't use a screw driver on those clamps, get a nut driver or better yet a socket. If you get to it when the hoses are warm they squeeze up tighter. |
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CCFcourt
Groupie Joined: October-04-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 44 |
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woah... leave a web browser open over night and everyone thinks you're a lurking spy! :) Just saw this message for the first time.. honest!
Noted on the house clamp arrangement for next time. I remember having to use a fair amount of force to get the hose on. I also remember that the muffler connection on this side was shorter and not real even on the end. If you really don't think just putting a sealant on it is sufficient, I can take it apart and have a look and will most likely be asking followup questions of how to correctly fiberglass it since I've never done that. |
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Ski Nautique 94
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Court,
Going back in this thread, it reminded me that you went through a hose change. With the fiberglass exhaust components, you need to be real careful due to how fragile they are. When installing the hose, did you have to forcefully get the hose on? Many times force is needed but there is a limit. |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Also put the hose clamp screws 180 apart when you put it back together.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Court,
Your occupation as well as your age hasn't been filled into your profile. By filling in those parameters, it really gives the members a basic understanding of your background. That helps us immensely to answer your questions. I see you have been on site within the last 1/2 hour or so, I assume your have read responses to your questions. Open up the connection, take a look and please respond. What's up????? No "back yard hacking" with the caulking!! |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Usually if a hose (with tight clamp) is leaking either the port is out-of-round or has a surface finish issue.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Let's not go "back yard" here!! Remove the hose from the muffler and take a closer look. |
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CCFcourt
Groupie Joined: October-04-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 44 |
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Had a chance to get out in the boat again. Attached are some pictures.
This is an overview of the engine and closeup of the connection from the hose to the muffler on the port side. After about 5 minutes of idling, water can be seen forming at the connection point of the hose and muffler. I don't see any leaks at the other end of the hose or at the front of the riser, but I'm not a calibrated eyeball necessarily. After a few hours out on the lake I had the amount of water shown in the last photo. This didn't seem abnormal to me, but maybe I'll hear otherwise from this group. Is there a sealant I can put around the end of the hose? If not recommended, why and what would you think is better to do? |
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Ski Nautique 94
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Court,
If that connection at the muffler went bad, you would be getting more water in the bilge that exhaust fumes. It sounds like the exhaust is before it mixes with water. Check you exhaust manifolds for holes where they bolt to the block as well as the gaskets. |
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GlassSeeker
Grand Poobah Joined: November-26-2008 Location: Elk Grove, CA. Status: Offline Points: 2421 |
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we need to see pics of this to help but it sounds like a safety issue so get the pics posted so we can figure this out.
Enough exhaust to bother you more than just a bit is a problem. It should not be in the cabin. |
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This is the life
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CCFcourt
Groupie Joined: October-04-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 44 |
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I have a 94 ski nautique. Almost 2 years ago I had to replace the exhaust hoses that connect from the engine risers to the muffler. (The engine had gotten too hot and caused them to collapse... that problem was no fun, but has been corrected - change those impellers yearly!)
When replacing the hoses, I noticed that the intake extension on the muffler was a bit shorter than expected (though I have little experience with this). I did think I was able to make a decent connection between the hose and muffler port and clamped it down snug. Over the last year we've noted exhaust smell in the cabin of the boat. We first thought it was the wind blowing it back in on us. Then, I thought maybe I needed to run the blower more, so kept it on the entire time the engine was running and at least 5-10 minutes after the engine stopped. The exhaust smell would always return in the cabin. Were these boats designed to allow a fair amount of exhaust in the cabin or am I killing us slowly with stupidity? I don't have a good comparison to know what is typical. If you think this is an issue, what would you suggest? Is there a good, objective test? Do I have to take all inbound and outbound hoses of the muffler off and reglass the muffler and wrestle to get everything to fit back together or is there a good sealant I can goop around the connections to seal it off well without making a mess of everything? Is there a way to check for gas leaks? Looking for some guidance before I spend too much more of my time wasted or break down and bring it to the 'shop' and have them charge me a fortune just to find out this is normal operation. Any guidance appreciated... |
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Ski Nautique 94
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