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SNobsessed 
Grand Poobah 
Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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 Topic: starter questionsPosted: May-25-2013 at 11:02pm |
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The resistor bypass is just a wire that connects to both ends, taking it out of the circuit. Some (not all) Electronic ignition systems do not use a ballast resistor.
You could test the solenoid resistance by measuring voltage drop across it during starting - the drop should be near zero. Or just buy a new one, it is not a marine rated part. |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
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Bri892001
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Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Posted: May-25-2013 at 7:50pm |
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What kind of shape is your batter in? Good clean connections?
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80tique
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Joined: May-18-2013 Location: Chesnee SC Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Posted: May-25-2013 at 12:21pm |
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what does bybass for el mean ballast resistor. Got motor to spin once. had starter rebuilt. it will turn motor independently. turned motor with key, then solenoid click, then nothing. got continuity in nuetral safety switch.got 12 volts at soleniod "a" terminal, 12 volts at resistor. Is solenoid bad? I may have short, dont know what
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Bri892001
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Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Posted: May-21-2013 at 3:42pm |
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This is the visual I was talking about before. I found it:
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TX Foilhead
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Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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Posted: May-20-2013 at 5:05pm |
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You know that very well could be what happened, I pick up a lot of what should be common parts at Napa and we always have an issue deciding on a suitable street version. I should probably go with the last carbed f150 I had that was an 83. I'll try to get a pic tonight.
As you know my electrical system is far from stock and I just jumped the wire over to my ground buss which is closer than the block ground. I have a red wire and an orange wire going to the dash from the 50amp breaker, when I was cutting the wire harness apart I want to say they were spliced together, but I'm not positive. I run 4ga from the alternator to the start relay and bypass the 10ga in the harness. I cut most of the orange out and left only a short piece between the plug and the breaker (one wire alternator). It's easier to figure out the mods now that the harness isn't wrapped in tape I can follow each wire through the factory splices/color changes. |
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Bri892001
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Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Posted: May-20-2013 at 3:25pm |
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Do you have any pictures of your wiring setup?
Are you using the same solenoid you were using before? The ones that came with our boats are typically "Self Grounding" which means the body of the solenoid grounds to block. There is another, very similar physically looking, type that uses a post to ground. Mixing up the two can cause problems. Is there any juice getting to your dash at all? Their is a lighter gauge red wire (typically) that is on the engine side, and this is what sends power to the dash. When I set lighter, I mean much smaller than the battery gauge cables. This needs to be connected to a constant hot source. On mine, I believe it is ultimately connected to the constant hot post on the solenoid, or somewhere thereabouts. Then it, goes into the harness connector on the engine side. The earlier boats, it may not be a harness quick connect. Pete has a really good visual laying around somewhere, I'm having a hard time putting my hands on the diagram... |
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TX Foilhead
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Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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Posted: May-20-2013 at 3:21pm |
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Just something to try, I had some issues and blew through a couple of relays after I replaced the starter. Don't know why it would ground to the block that bolted to the plate, but once I added the wire no more issues. I think it probably has to do with cheap Chinese junk, but that's what they hand you these days. The original one worked without it and I kept the replacements because they may not be bad after all.
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80tique
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Joined: May-18-2013 Location: Chesnee SC Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Posted: May-20-2013 at 2:41pm |
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So I need to improve ground to starter solenoid by using engine block as ground.
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TX Foilhead
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Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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Posted: May-20-2013 at 12:52pm |
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The power comes in through the NSS to open the start relay, there is some unseen 'magic' going on in the wire harness. I've had issues with replacement relays getting a good ground so I now attach a ground wire to the bolt holding the relay and the block ground and haven't had any starting issues since I did that. The starter is using that ground so use heavy wire, I started with 12ga that I had laying around and it didn't take too many starts to make the insulation bubbly.
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: May-19-2013 at 12:05pm |
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Joshua,
The power source for the solenoid is from the ignition switch so begin there. If you have nothing going to the ignition switch, you will have nothing coming out. The 12 volt reading you got at the solenoid, was that the hot coil terminal (S) or the big terminal from the battery? |
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80tique
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Posted: May-19-2013 at 10:18am |
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Think I got it... No volts to dash switch. checked continuity across neutral swafety switch good. Volts into solenoid 12v. volts out of small solenoid lead for safety switch 0 volts. Even the bypass post is 0 volts. Also large post to starter is 0 volts. Guess solenoid went bad during restoration? I should have 12 volts on these posts, correct? Thanks for diagram and help. Let me know what You think.
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80tique
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Posted: May-18-2013 at 7:59pm |
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Thanks for info. Will check.
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: May-18-2013 at 6:28pm |
 First you need to consider the ignition and start circuits as separate. Since you clarified it won't turn over, we'll trace the start circuit. The ignition switch has a hot lead feeding it. When it's turned to the start position, you should have power to the S terminal - check it when in the start position. From the S terminal there should be the yellow red wire. You'll see it go's to the NSS - check for power there when the key is in the start position. Then, check for power out of the NSS when the key is turned to the start position. You should have power to the start relay (solenoid). Have you Ohm'd the NSS for continuity? |
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80tique
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Posted: May-18-2013 at 6:09pm |
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wont turn over
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SNobsessed
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Posted: May-18-2013 at 5:17pm |
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What is the battery cable attached to? Trace the current path from the battery to the starter.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: May-18-2013 at 4:57pm |
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It won't crank/turn over or it won't start/fire?
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80tique
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Posted: May-18-2013 at 4:46pm |
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Just putting my 1980 tique back together aqnd having starting issues. Have power to voltmeter, solenoid. Only one wire to my starter: assuming this is non solenoid starter shown in manual.Have light purple wire to one side of resistor with dark purple on other side going to coil. Have two white wire going to starter solenoid. Manual shows purple wire going to starter solenoid but only two purple wires go to resistor. Still confused how power gets to starter. Anybody have any suggestions to help me troubleshoot? Boat started and ran before I dissassembled? Could I have a problem with voltage rgulator?
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80tique wrote: