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Stripped glove box screws: 93' SN

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KRoundy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Stripped glove box screws: 93' SN
    Posted: June-21-2013 at 5:35pm
Originally posted by Bri892001 Bri892001 wrote:

It's identical hardware to original. The flanges are threaded and work with the machine screws on the lid side.

I believe though, that the bottom of the boat-side screws are accessible from underneath with a little bit of acrobatics. I'm almost positive they were on mine anyway.

You might be able to solve with the issue with a couple of right sized speedy nuts. I'd bring an assortment of sizes.


Bri892001 is correct. Lift up the observer's seat, lay down on your back and wiggle yourself up into the bow. It is easy to see the entire back side of the dash in that area. You may need to drill a little bit to poke the screws all the way through.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-21-2013 at 12:45pm
It's identical hardware to original. The flanges are threaded and work with the machine screws on the lid side.

I believe though, that the bottom of the boat-side screws are accessible from underneath with a little bit of acrobatics. I'm almost positive they were on mine anyway.

You might be able to solve with the issue with a couple of right sized speedy nuts. I'd bring an assortment of sizes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbosse1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-21-2013 at 12:19pm
Originally posted by Bri892001 Bri892001 wrote:

Stripped out on the lid side or the dash/boat side?

I believe on the boat side, it does go right into the fiberglass. They sell a replacement hardware kit if you so require: http://www.nautiqueparts.com/hardwarekitforgloveboxhinges500.aspx

Actually, the hinges fail too and get super stiff. And this puts indue pressure on the screws. So, I'd think about replacing those as well: http://www.nautiqueparts.com/hingegloveboxcooler.aspx


Stripped out on the boat side. Unfortunately, the boat is 300 miles away right now, so I can't look at it. On the replacement kit, are the flanges used to solve the stripped fiberglass issue, or is this the identical hardware to original (which I don't need)?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-21-2013 at 11:09am
Stripped out on the lid side or the dash/boat side?

I believe on the boat side, it does go right into the fiberglass. They sell a replacement hardware kit if you so require: http://www.nautiqueparts.com/hardwarekitforgloveboxhinges500.aspx

Actually, the hinges fail too and get super stiff. And this puts indue pressure on the screws. So, I'd think about replacing those as well: http://www.nautiqueparts.com/hingegloveboxcooler.aspx
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-21-2013 at 9:48am
Some pictures would be helpful... else, youre only going to get responses from people who know what your glove box and hinge look like by heart.

Some pictures (or at least a description) of what the screws are attempting to anchor into would be helpful as well.

From memory, I think the hinge mounts directly to the fiberglass/gelcoat dash... but I'd like you to confirm that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-21-2013 at 9:48am
Fill the holes with epoxy or JB weld, re-drill and install. Put packing tape over the face of the hole first, then poke through the tape for the epoxy. Epoxy doesn't stick to packing tape.

Alternatively would be a threaded rivet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbosse1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-21-2013 at 9:29am
The glove box hinge screws on my 93' are completely stripped. Does anyone have a slick fix? I'd like to stay with the original, black, matching screws. Any easy way to fix this without going with larger screws or a nut & bolt setup? I want it to lok factory when after the fix.
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