Steering Cable Replacement with Pictures

Sounds similar. The pressure on the rudder is probably what I'm feeling then.

dip wrote: Nice write-up, Brian. Such a great looking boat. It looks like you replaced the cable with the original spec. If you find that it starts to go bad in a couple of years you might consider replacing the cable and helm with the newer version which is said to last longer. I replaced my cable several times (I forget the exact number) before I gave in and made the switch. Its only slightly more work and slightly more money as the newer cable is less expensive than the original. Of course I suck also so I didn't document it either...

Thanks Darren.

I did think about that option. I went with the slightly longer version of the original spec cable, which saved me $100, and the extra length didn't get in the way at all. In fact, I was glad to have it because there didn't seem to be any extra. I guess the 20' version is mass produced and therefore cheaper than the typical 19.5, but everything else was the same.

I was definitely curious about going with the newer version with the different helm. Because, the newer cable plus the helm would still be cheaper than the 19.5' original spec.

I think the newer is called Teleflex Extreme. Did you find the newer version to be less friction? It's funny, because replacing the cable decreased the "at speed" effort quite a bit, but turning right to come out of a hard left turn still requires more than I thought it would. The at idle improved somewhat.

I drove TRBenj's Skier at the 2012 CT Mini, and I remember the steering was zero effort all the way around, at all speeds and loads. I was hoping mine would be like that after the cable change. But, it definitely was an improvement anyway.

Nice write-up, Brian. Such a great looking boat. It looks like you replaced the cable with the original spec. If you find that it starts to go bad in a couple of years you might consider replacing the cable and helm with the newer version which is said to last longer. I replaced my cable several times (I forget the exact number) before I gave in and made the switch. Its only slightly more work and slightly more money as the newer cable is less expensive than the original. Of course I suck also so I didn't document it either.
BTW, I have both a back seat and the panels. If anyone needs measurements I can pull them, draw it up and send a cad file (or pdf) you could template from.

Brian, what size risers do you have on your '93? 3" or 3.5"? The 2 things that I can think of that would dictate exhaust routing would be the muffler and steering cable style.

Bri892001 wrote: Hmmmm. It also looks like your bracket is attached more on the Port side? Mine is definitely on the Starboard side of the rudder. That would be a really funny difference for the same model year. I have the 1:1 tranny, which is different, but not sure how that would change things in regard to steering set up though.

That must mean the exhaust duct goes out the opposite side on your boat too. That's an odd thing to change mid-year.

Good write up Brian, thanks for taking the time to take pics and writing it up for future reference. Nice looking GF too! Y'all coming to Benjamins in next week? If so, I hope you gave her fair warning.

my rudder cable is attached to a bracket that's attached to those four bolts to the left of the bracket in your pic, but mine's a '92.

JP, if your boat has a rear seat, it may not have come with those panels. Mine doesn't have a back seat, so those are there to cover the gas tank etc. I can take some measurements though. The only thing that is tricky is that they are angled on the outer sides.

You're welcome Brett. Thanks Chris & Chris.

Thanks for taking the extra time to document/photo the process Brian! Great write-up.

Nice write up Brian!

I was going to do the same tutorial........and then I didn't........because I suck.

I think this will help anyone who searches the topic.

Chris

One final point. This big nut comes attached to the cable, but should be able to turn independently of it. Another words, you don't want the cable twisting as you tighten the nut.

It came from the box spinning frequently, but after its travels through the bilge, it was kind of hung up on the cable. I had to kind of nudge it free from the cable, then I could tighten it onto the tube:

The new helm end came wrapped in a plastic bag. I left it on there so I wouldn't track grease all over the boat until I was ready to fasten it:



It's nice to have someone holding the rack up to the helm for you while you catch/thread/tighten the bolts:

I used an electrical wire snake instead of a rope to follow the rudder end of the cable through the bilge. I had it from doing wiring. The nice thing is that it kind of clipped into the bolt hole in the cable. Also, you can poke it through the bilge if you happen to pull it out to far... which I did.

The big nut is now un-done from the tube, which is held by the clamp block:



Closer angle of same. "Macro" setting on camera:

Pins removed:



Engine Cover removed:



Floor behind engine cover can come right up then: