Engine Won't Start

If I have to jump the poles I prefer a set of needle nose pliers. You can get a good contact on the incoming side before you contact the other side. You can mash the pliers right down in the center of the pole so you don't weld on the threads.

Of course pliers don't always work when you are on your back under a car ;).

8122pbrainard wrote: boardersdad wrote: I taught my teenage son the "redneck" start... using an insulated-handle screwdriver to short across the two large posts on the solenoid. Steve, Why the insulated handle? We are only dealing with 12 volts here! BTW, if yoy do it too many times, the threads on the studs will be so screwed up you won't be able to get the nuts off. A friend did it so many times that he called me for help. I had to cut the studs off to save the lugs on the cable ends!

Yes, it is not a good habit to get into. We've resorted to it three times so far, out in the middle of the lake while on vacation. What I really don't like is the sparking it can cause. The doghouse is open and I'm not smelling fumes, but sparks around marine engines can make me nervous. That's why I'm *not* suggesting it to anyone!

I taught my teenage son the "redneck" start... using an insulated-handle screwdriver to short across the two large posts on the solenoid. This removes the entire ignition switch circuit and the solenoid, but also the transmission neutral safety switch, from the equation. If the starter doesn't spin, it's the battery, cables or starter (or screwdriver, lol!).

He knows to be damn sure the trans is in neutral, the shift disengage button is pulled out, the key is turned to Run, and the throttle is at a reasonably-low rpm setting (idle, if the engine is warm). He knows this is only to get it running when having a problem out on the lake. He understands the circuits and knows the safety of all onboard comes first.

I'm not suggesting you do this... just sayin'.

Steve we tried jumping the battery and it would still only make the clicking sound. we let it sit a while and went back and tried to jump it again still the clicking sound. Me and my dad think its the solenoid.

I have the Ford (PCM) 351 and don't know the Chevy in particular.

First, check the battery charge with a voltmeter. If it's low on charge, it won't spin the starter.

Next, follow the Start circuit and check voltage at each location:

If the click is coming from the starter, you know the Start circuit is being completed far enough to put full voltage to the starter solenoid (relay). I would still check the voltage at each spot. Assuming the 1972 had a transmission neutral safety switch, you can use a voltmeter to confirm that when someone turns the key to Start, you're getting 12V to the trans safety switch, and 12V coming out of it (on the other connection, the one that then goes to the solenoid). Then check that you're getting 12V to that small post on the solenoid when the key is to Start. One big post on the solenoid should always be 12V, the other big post should be 12V when the key is to Start. Now... I say 12V, but the starter will pull the voltage down, so the point is, you're seeing voltage.

A thick cable from the solenoid goes to the starter. That connection on the starter should see voltage when the key is turned to Start. The starter bolts should be tight so it is well-grounded to the engine (and it doesn't mess up your bendix gear or flywheel ring gear), but they are probably tight.

You can check the voltage at all of these locations in about 30 seconds. Don't have your helper leave the key on Start... have them turn to Off (not Run) while you move your voltmeter + lead to the next location.

So...

If the click is coming from the solenoid and it's not closing the circuit to the starter, it's the solenoid. Try tapping on the dark plastic case with a wrench and it may free up. This can be caused by low voltage from the battery or by the solenoid going bad. If you have a deep cycle battery instead of a starting battery, that can contribute to this.

If voltage is going to the Starter and it's just clicking, then your battery may be low on charge, your starter may be going bad, or your connections may be corroded and/or loose (very often it's that last one).


What I would do:

1. Check the battery charge with your voltmeter.

2. Check the voltage at the locations discussed above. Also check the main circuit breaker, assuming the '72 has one.

3. If it's the solenoid, rap on it and see if it works.

4. Disconnect the battery cables and put the charger on the battery. Then trace the circuits described above--take apart every connection, clean with a wire brush (I use one chucked in my cordless drill) and re-connect, make sure they're tight. Make sure you do the connection of the battery's ground cable to the engine block, and of course the connections at the battery. My son and I did this about a month ago; takes about an hour or so.

5. After cleaning and tightening all connections, once the battery is fully charged, check its voltage, if good then try starting again (need water to raw water pump). If all good, then you may not need anything new.

6. If the solenoid was stuck, I'd put one on order. If the starter is still bad, I'd put one on order. If the battery is old or a deep cycle, I'd buy a new starting battery. If the battery tests good, the connections are all clean, and the starter will spin only when jumped, then you may need new battery cables, they corrode over time.

7. If the battery was low on charge and that was the cause, you may want to check your alternator.


I guess it's possible that your ignition switch is going bad, and when you turned it to Off it was completing the Run circuit. This can dump a lot current through the coil (and ruin it). Or maybe you left it in Run?

I suppose there are possibilities other than the starting circuit. Hydrolocking a cylinder, for example, but it doesn't sound like you did anything that would've caused that (and I'm not sure you'd describe that as a "click").


Not sure if that helps. The experts will be along shortly...


Steve