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Motor mounts

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TRBenj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Motor mounts
    Posted: January-09-2014 at 9:22am
I could not confirm a standard stringer (or motor mount) width with a quick web search, but I am fairly certain that CC's were built to common marine industry standards- different engine and mount styles should interchange. Given the aforementioned similarities between the CC models that used the 2 different mounts in question, I think you will be fine. That said, compare the 2 sets of mounts and verify that the PCM's will get you in the ballpark. Make any required adjustments to the stringers and other supports before installing them... that goes for any planned modifications like a cradle, etc as well.

I think you are misunderstanding the purpose of a few things... I would recommend you do a bit more reading and come up with a better plan before proceeding. Angles are not necessary with either the PCM mounts or the Interceptors (assuming you have the same ones I have in my late 60's 289/302's). Neither are any sort of slots. These 2 components/features allow you to adjust motor HEIGHT on an engine with fixed mounts (like Vondy's H-M). You do not need them on the Interceptor or PCM style mounts. You also do not need any provision to adjust the engine fore/aft in order to get it aligned... that is usually fixed. Hopefully you took a bunch of measurements of the original set up and plan to set the engine down in the same place the factory put it. If not, then you'll need to build some squish into your stringer/cradle design, and match drill the holes once you set the engine in place. The adjustability of the mounts themselves (side to side and up/down) will take care of the rest.

CC did not utilize the side holes of the cradles in the wood stringered boats- they only lagged them down from the top. I want to say they started cross bolting them on the composite boats. Cross bolting the system is a much stronger solution, and I would highly recommend it when using a stringer core that may not hold lags well (like a composite or a plywood).

I do not like the idea of permanent fasteners at all. Bedded studs, welded nuts, bolts buried in the structure that you cannot reach or replace... they seem like a dangerous proposition. I have seen too many fasteners damaged- banged up threads, bent bolts, cross threaded, galling- to willingly design them into a boat I was rebuilding. Instead, I like to through bolt everything, and leave access to replace everything if needed. It does require a bit more thought be put into the design up front, though.
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mountaineerminer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mountaineerminer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2014 at 10:52pm
Thanks TRBenj, this helps a lot.

"...and standard stringer widths"

Admittedly I have not done much measuring or research on this yet, so my initial concern was a difference in stringer width that would exceed the maximum side adjustment of 1.75" as outlined in the PCM Manual.

"The real complication comes when you want to add an engine cradle and through bolt the mounts..."

I guess a full cradle is a little more than what I had in mind, but do see the issue with stringer design and access to the underside for the thru bolts. My plan so far is to use SS angle rather than aluminum and either weld the nuts to the underside of the bracket and provide clearance for the bolt (glassed in of course) or weld bolts up through the angle, leaving a stud for the mount to attach with (less clearance necessary).

I then plan to mount the angle to the stringer by using studs epoxied in place as mentioned in Pete's post, on Vondy's thread and outlined in Chapter 14 of the Gougeon Brothers manual. This would allow the use of larger diameter studs to anchor into the stringer, and if necessary, slotted holes could be added to give fore and aft adjustability.

This is all assuming the stringers are not too tall, in that case I will need to go back to directly bolting the mounts to the stringers.

Question,
Are only the top holes on the newer style mounts used or are the side holes also bolted to the cradle?

Thanks,
Mike
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TRBenj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2014 at 4:56pm
Since the Interceptor mounts bolted directly to the stringers in the Mustangs of the late 60's and the PCM mounts (that I assume youre referring to) bolted straight to the stringers of the mid-late 70's Ski Tiques, I believe the newer mounts should be a drop in replacement. Both boats were 16' with similar driveline angles, similar stringer heights and standard stringer widths, and used 302's. Compare new and old mounts side by side and you should be able to confirm that theyre compatible. Worst case, mount heights vary enough to require a different stringer height, or a block under the newer style. But I bet the stock Mustang stringer height would get you in the ballpark of the PCM adjustment window.

The real complication comes when you want to add an engine cradle and through bolt the mounts to it instead of lagging them directly to the stringers, as that requires changing the stringer and floor shape, as you need to provide access to the underside of the cradle to install the nuts.
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mountaineerminer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mountaineerminer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2014 at 4:37pm
Not to be a complete highjack, but I too have been meaning to post about non-standard motor mount options.

I have been working through a rebuild of my 68/69 Mustang for a few years now (sigh..) and plan to reinstall the original 289, but plan to use the newer style motor mounts as mentioned by Boat Dr. in this post from 2008:

Motor Mount Thread

I have a full set of "newer style" motor/trans mounts in the mail, and will hopefully finish a dry-run fitment and alignment of the motor, shaft, and new style mounts in a week or 2.

Boat Dr. or anybody else who may have made this retrofit have any advice to share? I believe this may be a viable option for the OP and would certainly help me out, two birds with one stone I guess.

Thanks,
Mike
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-10-2013 at 10:57pm
Mark,
What happened to the original engine? Was it a Y block? I'm sorry to hear about the repower.


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77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Donald80SN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald80SN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-10-2013 at 2:49pm
Mark,

You may have better luck posting in the parts wanted forums. Mustang's are always getting parted out by guys on this site so I bet someone will be able to hook you up over there.

Welcome Back,

Donald
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63classic View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63classic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2013 at 7:13pm
Hi Everyone,
It's been a while since posting.
I'm in the process of restoring a 63 Classic. I'm retrofitting with a Mercruiser 188 hp. (Ford 302ci).
I need a full set of motor and trans mounts. I'll be attaching a Warner Velvet Drive. I have the correct bell housing. Any advice on where to purchase the motor/ trans mount system? Would it be similar to a Mustang set up?

Thanks!

Mark Sawyer
Massachusetts
Thanks!
Mark
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