Trailer Restoration Thread SN176

I borrowed them from another CCF member. Allen (81nautique) can tell you where to get them.

If they're not available, do a Google advanced search and type Correctcraftfan.com as the domain.

There are a lot of ways to take your boat off the trailer and even more contraptions to hold it while you do trailer work.

Pete - I hear ya on the snowmobile trailer, the WI winters combined with Salt and Sand really take a toll on the snowmobile wiring, I have a steel trailer that I was doing the wiring every 5 years. About 8 years ago, I decided to do it right, using all the stuff above. Haven't had a problem since. I also prefer to run ground wires really seems to work better with the LED lights too (albeit not original, to Chris's trailer, appropriate for a mid-90's trailer overhaul).

Hollywood wrote: 81nautique wrote: I got to hand it to Mr Skutsch, he always seems to show up when there's work to be done. x1,000 (not even sure that's high enough) It is getting to the point where I need to stop telling him what I'm up to. He shows up early and stays late. How can anyone ever repay that? Go Team Red [with black trailer]!

I don't know what you guys are talking about, just paying it forward. Seriously I get way more out of this site then I put in, so if I can show up to flip a boat, or install a shower or help with some wiring, no big deal. Besides, at some point in the future the 63 will need new stringers and someone hopefully will volunteer to show me how to fiberglass.

Seriously HW, how many hours did you spend last fall dragging me through the water on my belly, I am pretty sure I am still in your debt. Hey anything I can do to help keep a correct craft on the water, you bet, I'll lend a hand!

BTW - I like my RED trailer!!!

Haha. Thanks guys. Between this completed project, and the fact that the boat pulled 3 guys for a day of barefooting, I'm feeling pretty accomplished.

It was only a year and a half ago that I picked this thing up in stable, yet neglected condition. I think (with the help of a lot of people, most of them here) I saved her from a shallow grave.

The addition of working brakes has been noticeable for sure. I think it's at least saving some brakes on my poor truck.

81nautique wrote: I got to hand it to Mr Skutsch, he always seems to show up when there's work to be done.

x1,000 (not even sure that's high enough)

It is getting to the point where I need to stop telling him what I'm up to. He shows up early and stays late. How can anyone ever repay that?

Go Team Red [with black trailer]!

That gantry crane is just plain old cheating Chris.

I've used HW's suggestion a couple of times and started at the front and worked back, it does give you a lot of leverage. On lumber selection , trailer bunks is the only time I go to the lumber yard and look for sticks with the largest hook I can find, LOl. I usually the guy that empties half the lift of lumber before I find the straightest piece on the rack but for bunks it's just the opposite.

So job well done, looks great, should stop on a dime, ride nice and hopefully you'll have turn signals!    I got to hand it to Mr Skutch, he always seems to show up when there's work to be done.

looks awesome dude, nice work. you should really be proud of that effort

Chris,
What did Steve use to keep the wiring intact to the trailer frame? I'm curious since that'a always one weak point on trailer wiring. On two of my trailers I actually used pvc pipe to run the wiring in. I also hope he used some decent heat shrink type "sta-kons" for all of the connections and did NOT use any insulation displacing connectors.

You are absolutely correct about slippery bunks. They can be a problem at the ramp. In fact, we have a well know member (the best on the camera) that actually lost his boat on the ramp due to slippery bunks. If I remember correctly I think he sprayed them with silicone. Big damage!! Do a search and you will find Tim's thread. Sorry to bring this again Tim but all should know.

Beautiful! - LOVE me a good trailer restore thread!

Look at Chris go!!

Parts


Old drum brakes with cracked cylinders.


New brakes and bearings





I have started assembling the trailer again but I ran out of time to take pics. I'll post more of the results when I get back next week.

Next post should cover bunks, running the brake lines, and beginning the wiring of the lights.

Progress is being made on the 176 trailer. Over the last few weeks I was able to get it sandblasted, torn down, primed, and painted. This was a terrible job in the Wisconsin winter and I don't think I'll be doing it again. At least not without a proper spray booth.

The final choice ended up being PPG Omni Epoxy Primer and Seaguard 1000 topcoat. I know there will be objection to this (I got as many suggestions as there are paints in the world), but in the end, it was available and fit the criteria.

That being said, the sandblasting revealed a lot about this trailer.

1. It revealed the depth of the pitting.

2. I found a few spots along the bunks and steps that held moisture which accelerated the corrosion.

3. The sandblaster used medium that was far too coarse to be painted over.

There were a lot of left over imperfections including a textured look to the entire frame. With the application of the primer and paint, that texture is still present.

For anyone reading this thread looking for guidance on painting a trailer, I suggest making sure your sandblaser uses fine medium that will leave a smooth surface. If not, use a self leveling primer or sand the trailer until smooth before painting.

It was not a priority of mine to make the finish look like a car. My main idea in this project was to make the trailer road worthy and slow the corrosion in the process.

Time lapse of us hanging the trailer frame from the ceiling of the garage.


We used a propane torpedo heater in this insulated garage with a fan exhausting the fumes on the side.








I used a 3M respirator with 6001 filters and P95 pre-filters. I did not even smell the paint once until I took the mask off. It worked very well.

I have used the stuff from Menards on my lift bunks and rails, seems decent enough. Comes in a 12' roll, black in color.

Actually maybe it's an 8' roll??

phatsat67 wrote: Did you just use regular old electric drums like I would use on my car trailer? The drum/backing plate assemblies are so freakin cheap compared to all the other crap that goes along with surge brakes.

I too used plan old electric brakes on one of my trailers. Yup, they are cheap and I too have had no problems. Even though the truck was pre wired for the brakes, setting it up was more work than putting the brakes on the trailer!
One nice thing about electrics up here in the north is if you get into a ice/jack knife situation, you hit the trailer brakes and they straighten you out. I've used the technique twice in say 20 years.

I refurbed my trailer about 5 years ago. I too had not had brakes in a long time and thought about going to disks. I ended up going with electric drum brakes. All I had to purchsed was new backing plates which were not too expensive and they work fantastic. I was worried about them holding up being submerged a lot but I have had 5 years of trouble free braking and no need for a lockout to back up my very steep driveway. I took off the drum last year to check thme and there is zero signs of corrosion.