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vernonfarmer View Drop Down
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    Posted: February-24-2014 at 10:18am


Watch the Woodyboater site later this week for a story about the Lucky Penny.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vernonfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2014 at 12:33pm
Ha! All boats have that hole...problem is, the money never comes back out!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2014 at 11:35am
I found a hole in the bottom of mine where i could hide my $
former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vernonfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2014 at 2:12am
Removed the last bits of a rotten battery platform today to find a 1919 wheat penny. The only thing actually worth anything that I've found inside an old boat. Lots of critter poop, nut shells and leaves, though. Anyone else find anything interesting while working on an old boat?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2014 at 10:45am
It still to this day depends on what CC has on hand ;).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2014 at 7:27am
Originally posted by vernonfarmer vernonfarmer wrote:

I've seen vintage pictures of the Atom Skier with a tow ring just behind the front seat. How does that mount? And what about the aft lift ring...could that be used for a ski tow or am I asking to have my transom ripped off?

The optional pylon fastens at the keel and the bulkhead.

Yes, as a Atom owner/restorer I highly recommend not using the aft lifting ring for pulling. It simply is attached to an angle bolted to the transom frame.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vernonfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2014 at 12:59am
I've seen vintage pictures of the Atom Skier with a tow ring just behind the front seat. How does that mount? And what about the aft lift ring...could that be used for a ski tow or am I asking to have my transom ripped off?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2014 at 8:24pm
Originally posted by dip dip wrote:

Pete,
What's the deal with the dashes in the Atom. I've seen some with this setup

A lot depended on the engine but even more of what CC had on hand!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dip Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2014 at 7:02pm
Pete,
What's the deal with the dashes in the Atom. I've seen some with this setup

and some with the basic setup this boat has

Were there options available, or where these often added afterward? The reference section doesn't seem to have any info on this. The year of manufacture doesn't seem to have anything to do with it either.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2014 at 7:17am
Originally posted by captbob626 captbob626 wrote:

Pete:
Obviously you need to read the posts a little more carefully.
After restoring several Chris Crafts and a Correct Craft I think I am somewhat informed . The post does recommend using silicone bronze screws.

Bob,
Sorry as my wording could have been better. My post was not directly aimed to yourself but rather a general warning to anyone thinking stainless screws were good for boat building. However, you need to be careful with your wording as well. This, makes it sound like stainless is OK if you can't afford the silicon bronze!
Originally posted by captbob626 captbob626 wrote:

Try to stay way from ss if your budget can afford silicone bronze.


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dip View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dip Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2014 at 2:30am
Very cool boat. My 90 year old grandma was visiting from North Carolina last week and told me her and my grandfather's favorite boat was their old Chetek. I've seen old B&W photos of it but never what it looked like in color. Post more!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vernonfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2014 at 12:44am
Wow! Good stuff on the links! Thanks.

Also, not my first boat project. I appreciate all the tips and keep 'em coming. CPES is my friend. Got the silicon bronze screw issue "nailed".
Will look closer at the frame to ply seams but they all seem tight with no gaps or cracks or movement of any kind. The bottom seems so smooth that I wonder if it hasn't been glassed!

While this is my first inboard, my first wood boat project was this 1959 Chetek lapstrake outboard. She's won several awards at ACBS shows and is a joy to cruise in.

Can't wait for the fuel economy of the 4 cycle Gray!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote captbob626 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2014 at 12:28am
Pete:
Obviously you need to read the posts a little more carefully.
After restoring several Chris Crafts and a Correct Craft I think I am somewhat informed . The post does recommend using silicone bronze screws.
Bob Meimbresse
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 11:43pm
Originally posted by captbob626 captbob626 wrote:

Jamestown distributors has a good selection of silicone bronze. Try to stay way from ss if your budget can afford silicone bronze.

John,
NEVER use stainless (even type 316) in wood boat building/restoration. It rusts!! Obviously capbob isn't informed!!


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 11:03pm
...and this
1950 Jr Utility
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dip Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 11:00pm
Oops, got trigger finger...

Here are a couple of links to things you may find interesting.

CCFan Thread


Photobucket site of his project

Project in North Carolina
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dip Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 10:56pm
Here are a couple of links to things you may find interesting.

CCF Thread
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote captbob626 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 9:52pm
Jamestown distributors has a good selection of silicone bronze. Try to stay way from ss if your budget can afford silicone bronze.
Bob Meimbresse
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 9:06pm
Originally posted by captbob626 captbob626 wrote:

I neglected to mention that if it was used in salt water, old brass screws and carriage bolts could also be affected. Not much you can do about attack on these except make sure sacrificial zincs are used and maintained.

You should find silicon bronze fasteners.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 9:02pm
Originally posted by vernonfarmer vernonfarmer wrote:

Yeah, the gusset is gone 'cuz I removed it. I assume that the bottom is screwed into the frame from the bottom side? A new gusset is being made from a piece of white oak.

The solid wood would not be my first choice since the potential for splitting at a grain line. It is the most common failure on knee's. I suggest a plywood and a CPES treatment. Yes, White Oak is the first choice for boat framing! I suggest investigating the complete frame/hull before you get too far. 3M 5200 is my first choice for bedding.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote captbob626 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 9:00pm
I neglected to mention that if it was used in salt water, old brass screws and carriage bolts could also be affected. Not much you can do about attack on these except make sure sacrificial zincs are used and maintained.
Bob Meimbresse
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote captbob626 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 8:51pm
That wire you pointed to is a bonding wire and probably went to the block. In theory same as a negative but don't use it as a negative wire source. There are two theory's of thought. Bond all metal in boat or bond none. So, either take it off all together, or attach it to the block and attach all metal in the boat to it, thru hulls,rudder etc. You may consider a shaft brush which helps protect shaft, prop nuts, and prop. Where it attaches in the photo protects the rudder and port.
Also bond the fuel tank. Just don't use it as a negative wire. This is more important in a salt water or brackish environment. However could be important in dirty water . It helps protect metal parts from stray electrical current ( galvanic corrosion ). Google galvanic corrosion, there are some good articles out there.
Bob Meimbresse
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 8:19pm
I hope it is not the big let down easy here. Take a look at my thread on our 1950 Junior Utility. I was a bit naive. See where it led me. We are all willing to be of assistance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vernonfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 7:59pm
Yeah, the gusset is gone 'cuz I removed it. I assume that the bottom is screwed into the frame from the bottom side? A new gusset is being made from a piece of white oak.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 7:50pm
John,
The knee gusset is gone!! I see evidence of other gusset problems. I suggest replacing the frame at least to the inner keel. You may need a done to the frame restoration. Rot is like a cancer. The rot spores go deep into the wood.

I have a feeling that the wire in question was hooked to the engine block at one time. Maybe even to the log?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vernonfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 6:35pm
As for tracing the wire...it's only two feet long. Goes nowhere.

Here's the framing issue I'm looking at: Similar but not as severe rot on the opposite side. This is the only place that was soft. There is a wad of fiberglass here, too. Evidence of a collision of some sort? There were no leaks in this area when we put in the water both times.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 5:24pm
Originally posted by vernonfarmer vernonfarmer wrote:

Hard to see the wire I'm concerned with. The color of the wire matches the dirty floor! This wire is about 2 feet long and just ends. Can't see anything that looks like it anywhere else.

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

John,
Trace where the other end goes.

Regarding what the hull looks like without the floor, what are you concerned with?

Also, do check to see if any of the hull skin (plywood) is separating from the frame. Seams opening up are a good indication. CC used a talc/oil based bedding compound (Dolfinite) and over the years it dries out leaving only the screws holding the ply to the frames. It's common (like my Atom - see my Atom diary) to be able to just unscrew the ply from the frame. From your pictures, it looks like your boat may have just had a cosmetic "restoration". Just caulking open seams WILL NOT WORK!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vernonfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 3:22pm
Yeah, that wire with the plug on it is from the stern light. Hard to see the wire I'm concerned with. The color of the wire matches the dirty floor! This wire is about 2 feet long and just ends. Can't see anything that looks like it anywhere else.

If anyone has pictures of their Atoms with the floors out, I'd love to see them to compare with what I've got. This is sooooo cool to hear from everyone!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 3:10pm
John,
I do not believe there were never any "plans" for CC. Their wood hulls were basically hand built out back in the shop. You may be surprised to find almost anything with the hulls. I as well as others have often found some "hack" jobs with their framing. We will joke and say the CC employees used their "finish hatchets" that day!! That extra wire you ask about may be a ground. Trace where the other end goes. Grounds from the engine block should go to the stern light and sometimes back then to the fuel fill. The male plug on the end looks like it fell out of the stern light socket.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2014 at 3:00pm
Welcome, You have got a very pretty boat there. I have seen it before. Looks to be quite original as much as I know. I don't claim that to be much. We will be working and reconditioning boats together as my son and I have a few old wooden Correct Crafts. They are iconic and works of art. Enjoy yours!
The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future
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