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carb drip, trans leak and water in bilge

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tcarden View Drop Down
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    Posted: April-05-2006 at 6:09pm
Guys,

Thanks for the replys! Sorry its taken me so long to acknowledge but my computer blew up on me. I'm taking the projects one at a time. Carb first, then leak, then trans as it works great but just leaks a little. I'll keep an eye on it though. Also, I've got to do some patch work as it looks like the prop came off and chopped into the hull underneath. Got through the gelcoat but not all the way through.

I will get pictures as the restoration process i.e. saga continues.

TC
"Boat - A hole in the water surrounded by wood (and fiberglass) into which one pours money"
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GottaSki View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2006 at 2:08pm
Seams reasonable David, but, thats the funny part....I did have a fresh screened adapter on the inlet, and the junk still got buy that..I thought the screen would not pass anything big enough to cause trouble, but I was amazed how much got by. I summize the small particles re-coagulated to wad up in the needle and idle circuits. Never anything big enough to clog the mains or PVCOs. I should have snapped a pic of the inside of the bowls and fuel pump.
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole
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David F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2006 at 1:31pm
tcarden:

Gottaski illuded to an easy repair of your dripping carb...simply remove the primary fuel bowl and clean the trash out of the needle valve and reassemble. You may need a new fuel bowl gasket if yours is stuck good.

Gottaski, I guess your carb does not have the fuel strainer at the fuel inlet to stop the bits of pump diaphram you mentioned. Another source of rubber trash is from rubber fuel that is removed from barbed fittings. The barbed fittings cut the inside of the fuel line and upon reassembly can send the bits up line and into the carb (depending on where the fuel filter is located). Again the inlet strainer should stop it getting to the needle valve. I had to put a new carb on my '77 last week due to internal corrosion within the carb that would foul the needle vavle (just FWIW).

Tcarden: Concerning the tranny. Go ahead and pull the tranny (support the engine with 2x4's under the exhaust manifolds) and replace both front and rear seals. If you are mechanically inclined, I would do a complete rebuild on the tranny. Not hard to do and you will have peace of mind and no more oil worries.

As far as the water leak is concerned, it is not unusual for the fiberglass mufflers (if you can call them that) to crack and leak. Remove the rear floor section and inspect the mufflers while the engine is running with a water source or in the water.
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Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2006 at 11:56am
Hmmm. The front pump is so easy to take off why not do it and not risk the input shaft? Just place a little saran wrap over the splines when reassembling to protect the seal.

Exactly..find the source..
Given the vintage of the engine I'd replace the fuel pump too. The insides can shred for a season before it stops pumping, gooping up the needle, seat and idle circuits within one run on your fresh rebuild. Little paper gasket material from under the press-in valves. I had the bowls off 3-4 times before I woke up and canned the fuel pump.
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2006 at 12:00am
Trash in the carb will prevent the needle valve from closing and you will get a drip just like you describe. After rebuilding the carb be sure you fix the source of the trash. An in-line fuel filter may help. Look for trash in your carb bowl when you disassemble it to confirm that is the problem.

Thanks for the seal tip Awhite. I may try that on my trans. All the enviornmentalists will name a holiday after me if I ever fix my leak. I carry a quart of Dexron III in my boat.
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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AWhite70 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AWhite70 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2006 at 7:00pm
I'll try and answer your first 2 questions:
1. Rebuilding a carb is quite simple. Take note of how you disassemble everything. Thoroughly clean everything and put it back together the same way you took it apart.

2. If your leak is the front seal it's not terribly difficult to replace. Mine leaked on my boat and I replaced it while I had the engine out. I was able to VERY CAREFULLY pull the seal out the front without disassembling the transmission or damaging the shaft. I poked holes in the metal part of the seal and pryed it out with screwdrivers. I repeat do this VERY CAREFULLY. If you scratch the shaft it may never seal.
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tcarden View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tcarden Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2006 at 6:40pm
Guys,

Great post! Since I've got three standard 'issues' with my 82Sn 351 and velvet drive I thought I would ask for your feedback.

1. My carburetor drips out of both primary sides when running and after it is shut down. Have to give gas to get started, otherwise runs great, idles great and revs to limit. I orderd a 4160 rebuild from skidim and gaskets. I have read on this post that this is a relatively easy task. Any pointers?

2. Had boat out twice since purchase. both times I saw a leaking fluid, looked like trans fluid (red in color) in bilge and after sitting in garage for awhile drippied onto the garage floor through drain hole. About two quarters in size. then stops. Ithink it is the front seal but i did notice some leakage right arond the shift area on the trans. Any suggestions?

3. Repaired my leaking rudder and rudder plate with new packing and sealant but still have a leak coming from rear of boat. I suspect the exhaust hoses or through hulls on back. Are these hard to remedy.

Sorry for longwindedness of topic but I figured everyone has ran into these problems at least once, maybe more!?

I appreciate any comments or suggestions!

Todd
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