Impeller Pump condition |
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malcolm2
Senior Member Joined: June-13-2010 Location: Nashville Status: Offline Points: 239 |
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Posted: May-20-2014 at 1:50am |
Mark this one as done! After work today, I re-installed the pump as it is supposed to be. Then I tightened all the hose clamps and gave it another crank. I just had a 1 gallon bucket and that baby was dry in no time... TA DA
I am glad I posted my chat with Nautiqueparts.com, cause I just did not feel right about using sealant. That would have been a last resort. I was going to replace some hoses today, but the shop I go to is closed on Monday... Their loss. So, I got a bigger bucket and took the spray nozzle off of the garden hose and cranked it again. Let it run for about 10 or 15 minutes. The temp gauge never got over 130-ish. Only rev'd to about 1500 during that time. I don't know exactly why or where, but one of the hoses must have been loose enough or not seated tightly and it was sucking air. At this point I am happy. A repaired muffler, and plenty of water pumping thru it, and fresh oil, the engine even sounds better. I ran it once more to verify the oil pressure. Since the engine was nice and warm, I went ahead and changed the oil and filter. Sunset, happy hour cruise tomorrow Thanks to all that chimed in. |
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backfoot100
Platinum Member Joined: January-03-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1897 |
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Then you have an air leak someplace between the water intake and the RWP or the pump itself. If the only thing you touched is the pump, then I would start there. First off you said you had it backwards. That needs to be fixed.
You could rig up a hose directly from the input side of the pump to the bucket then for testing and eliminate everything else but the pump. The fins will right themselves no matter which direction you have them. |
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When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.
Eddie |
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malcolm2
Senior Member Joined: June-13-2010 Location: Nashville Status: Offline Points: 239 |
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His suggestion of sealant was the 1st time I heard that suggestion. I am not really sure about anything, but I will say that I installed the pump both ways....and I got no suction either way.
I have determined that the current install is BACKWARDS. I did the bucket method last night in the driveway. Pulled the pipe from the brass thru-hull pipe and stuck it in the bucket. The bucket is still full. My 92 SN rotates like the left hand drawing (GT40). And that is how I originally installed it when it heated up at the lake. I plan on re-installing it that way this afternoon. I did read a post that said not to worry about the direction you install the fins, they will orient themselves with rotation. The boat was fine prior to changing the impeller. That is the only variation vs. last weekend's lake trip. |
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backfoot100
Platinum Member Joined: January-03-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1897 |
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You shouldn't need any kind of sealant on that pump.
Are you sure the pump was reinstalled the coreect way? They can easily be installed backwards so that the input/output is reversed. That's the most common mistake made by anybody when they reassemble these pumps. |
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When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.
Eddie |
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malcolm2
Senior Member Joined: June-13-2010 Location: Nashville Status: Offline Points: 239 |
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Well I installed my impeller, dropped her in the lake and she overheated quickly. I poked around to make sure everything was right and she still overheated. Put her back on the trailer and came home.... Note to self, bucket method in the driveway after major surgery...
Anyway, I was lucky enough to find someone online at nautiqueparts.com and we chatted. he suggested that I should have used a sealant on both sides of the wear plate. That would guarantee a good seal. Everyone else use a sealant? Maybe mine just has more wear than usual. I did replace the o-ring and the paper gasket. Curious about the sealant. Any suggestions on what type? Would a t-stat form-a-gasket be good? |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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I just picked up some NTN bearings,the ones that Sherwood uses for 13 ea on eBay the NTN number is sco228 LLUC3/5C. I'm going to change them since I have it all apart and since I believe you need a press to do all of this,I need to do this at home. I think the reason it won't spin is because of the seal assembly drags on the shaft.
If the bearings sound fine and the pump don't leak and the spacer plate,#7 in Sherwood's list is not grooved up,I'd just replace the impeller. |
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OldSchoolBlue84
Gold Member Joined: December-02-2012 Location: Valparaiso, IN Status: Offline Points: 814 |
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To determine if you need to rebuilt the pump, see if the shaft is loose or wiggles around, if so, you need a rebuilt. Below is what you will need, should be the same as yours. Good luck.
Go to www.sherwoodpumps.com for assembly/disassembly instructions. 1 40057 Seal and Seat, Sherwood G21 2 R067035 Bearing Sherwood R/W pump 1 R096067 Thrust washer Sherwood r/w pump 1 RM0125 Gasket r/w pump Sherwood 2 R048070 Retainer Ring, large 2 R048069 Retainer Ring, small Should cost around $100 |
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Kostas
1984 Ski Nautique 2001 |
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malcolm2
Senior Member Joined: June-13-2010 Location: Nashville Status: Offline Points: 239 |
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I just took my pump apart. The fins are cracked and worn, so I am getting a new kit with the o-ring and gasket.
Here is my question: The pulley does turn smoothly, but does not "spin". I feel no issue with the bearings, but wonder if people change them out. EDIT: Ok 1 question answered...pump and pump parts Looks like there is a seal and a seat you can get for about $30. But there are lots of other parts inside.... $200+ worth. So now the question turns to, "do I need to repair?" |
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