No Voltage to Starter |
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Smithfamily
Platinum Member Joined: December-26-2007 Location: Orlando, Fl Status: Offline Points: 1602 |
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Posted: May-15-2014 at 9:33pm |
TWO SOLENOIDS bad? I hope you have it licked.
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Js
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Michael,
It sounds like you found the problem. I'm sorry you couldn't understand the pro advice here and had to send it to a mechanic friend. I do have some additional advice regarding the "filter" on top of your carb. If it is simply an automotive filter and not a USCG approved flame arrestor, Get rid of it fast before you blow yourself up. Someones been back yard hacking!!! |
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backfoot100
Platinum Member Joined: January-03-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1897 |
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NSS would definitely explain no voltage.
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When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.
Eddie |
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MichaelLamb
Newbie Joined: May-06-2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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So, I dropped the boat off this morning with a mechanic friend of mine to look at it.... the solenoid was bad, he said it melted his switch jumper he was using to jump it. And the neutral safety switch was loose (which must of been my intermittent problem). He said he took it out and cleaned it and tightened/adjusted it. So, awesome!! Hey, thanks so much for everyone's input... I'm off to Lake Placid next weekend!! And I am ordering a solenoid from SkiDIM |
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Delray Beach 78 Nautique
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MustangMadness
Senior Member Joined: April-15-2014 Location: Seacoast NH Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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The solenoid and the starter need to show a ground as well
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MichaelLamb
Newbie Joined: May-06-2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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I will need to look at it and then I will re-label the picture.
The large red is positive cable from the battery (top post). The top post also has 2 other wires connected and 1 definitely goes to the voltage regulator (left). I will need to look again at the other one. The large black wire goes from the bottom post to the starter. The S post goes to the neutral switch. I will need to look again at the I post wire. |
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Delray Beach 78 Nautique
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Sorry I was slow with the diagram. Looking at the picture it appears the solenoid is continuously switching on a direct path from battery to engine ground. And that was shorting out my brain. I'm thinking/hoping that big fat black cable coming off the larger bottom post is "Red"
We better hope this wiring gets cleaned up before Pete B. sees it Here is the diagram: |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Online Points: 21171 |
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I agree with Eddie... every time I start to contribute to this thread, I end up confused as to what is actually going on. Some clarifications as to how you have everything hooked up would be a good start. I put together a helpful PCM wiring diagram some time ago, I am surprised Brian hasnt posted it yet.
In parallel to getting the wiring sorted out, I would also order a proper starter relay from SkiDIM. Even if you can figure out a way to make the cheapo auto version functional in the short term, it may cause problems in the future- and you may not ever get it working properly (at least not reliably). The problems with cheap auto store solenoids have been pretty well documented on here. |
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backfoot100
Platinum Member Joined: January-03-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1897 |
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Mike,
You're really confusing me. Your terminology seems to be changing every post as it relates to each terminal on the solenoid. You're talking a smaller wires on the positive side of the solenoid and I have no idea what you're talking about. Then I can't tell what is on the smaller wires on the "S" and "I" terminals. How about this...Tell us exactly what is on the "S" terminal and where that wire(s) is going. Then what is on the "I" terminal and where does that wire(s) go. Then you should have a heavy wire on the top big post (referenced by the pics you posted). What are the wires on that post and where are they going? Then the same thing with the bottom big post. What's on it and where does it go to. Once we have that and are all on the same page, hopefully we can figure out what's going on. |
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When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.
Eddie |
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MustangMadness
Senior Member Joined: April-15-2014 Location: Seacoast NH Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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Show a pic of the starter. You should already have 12v from the battery to the solenoid.
If you don't, either your + battery cable to the solenoid or the battery - cable to block is/are missing/toast/poorly connected. |
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MichaelLamb
Newbie Joined: May-06-2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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let me re-state that a little bit... the 2 smaller wires on the positive side of the solenoid, 1 goes to the voltage regulator, and the other ties in a wire going to the ballast/resistor and what looks like one going to the dash.
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Delray Beach 78 Nautique
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MichaelLamb
Newbie Joined: May-06-2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Delray Beach 78 Nautique
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MichaelLamb
Newbie Joined: May-06-2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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OK, the 12V is coming from the smaller red wires on battery post. With the key in the on position, I took the smaller red wires off and left the positive from the battery and got no voltage to the S post. Took the battery cable off and put the smaller red wires back on ... one goes to what looks like a resistor or ballast on/near the voltage regulator, and one seem to go to the dash. The one going to the dash is what is producing the 12v on the S post.
So I put the original solenoid back in and everything is OK with the S post.... I get 12V only when the key is in the start position.... But still no volts to the starter yet |
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Delray Beach 78 Nautique
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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That's correct, there shouldn't be. The question is though, do you have 12 volts going to the 'S' post with just the heavy Red Cables Connected to the big posts? or Do you have 12 volts originating from the smaller WIRE you have connected to the 'S' Post? |
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MichaelLamb
Newbie Joined: May-06-2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Did not have much time last night to work on it. So, I tried using jumper cables from the negative battery terminal to the block. Same (nothing to starter) ..., tried to the solenoid bracket (same), put ground jumper from battery to switch, still no volts to starter.
When I took off the previous solenoid's wire to the starter, I was able to use jumper cables attached to the battery, negative to the intake manifold ground, and positive to the starter cable and it kicked the starter. So, that tells me the cable from the solenoid to starter is good. I picked up another solenoid but I am thinking it may be the wrong one, because after I installed it, there was 12V to the S post when I turned the key to the on position. As I understand it, there should not be 12V to that post until you put the key in the start position. |
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Delray Beach 78 Nautique
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MichaelLamb
Newbie Joined: May-06-2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Theory 1) The solenoid looks a lot like the picture below. I did buy it at an auto-parts store some time ago and its been sitting in the box. It does have the metal base as in the picture. The one I just swapped out when this problem started looks the same.... but I will stop on the way home today and get another one at the marine store. Also, there are wires on both little posts, I know one of them goes to the neutral switch (I will also make sure it goes to the S terminal), can't remember right now where the other one goes... will look tonight.
Theory 2) Not sure how you can wire a 1 wire (heavier gauge) starter wrong?? It has been in the boat and works for a few years now. Theory 3) I tested with a continuity tester and seemed good... I will also pick up this short cable on the way home today. I will get some pics tonight .... so someone else focused on the 10.6 volts coming thru the ignition switch and neutral switch saying I needed more voltage for the solenoid to close. wants me to take the "start" wire and touch to the hot wire on the ignition switch to see if that kicks the solenoid ... I will also try the manual grounding using a jumper cable as suggested below. |
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Delray Beach 78 Nautique
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baitkiller
Platinum Member Joined: October-11-2011 Location: SW Florida Status: Offline Points: 1693 |
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Us hacks would grab the jumper cables from outta Mommas pick-up and jump battery ground to block and try that, then battery ground to solenoid frame. That kinda stuff is quick, easy, tells us plenty and lets us stay under our nice shady tree.
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Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Actually, this image is a perfect explanation of the stock PCM configuration. The solenoid is shaped different but exact same idea:
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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I have on theory on this, it comes up from time to time. Actually three theories
Theory 1.)It has to do with the type of solenoid you're using... I think. Where are you buying the solenoids? The regular PCM type, is self grounding. So, the body of the solenoid should ground itself to the engine block. You have two Big posts, one going to the Battery, and one for the starter. Heavy Red wire should be on each of the big posts. One little post should have the feed coming from the neutral safety switch. And, on a PCM engine, you have one little post that goes unused. The little post would give the coil full, un-ballested, voltage to the coil during the startup, and during startup only. Indmar etc. uses this sometimes but PCM generally didn't to my understanding. In this scenario, you have inadvertently swapped in a non-self ground style solenoid, for one that needs a ground wire going to the other little post. Theory 2.) Someone swapped out do a more modern starter but didn't wire it correctly. With the modern one, the starter actually needs a constant (heavy gauge) hot going to the starter. And, the other big post really just switches it on, rather than supplying the starting juice. 3.) You have a bad cable or a bad connection going from your second big post to your starter. We really need pics of your solenoid and starter to give better advice. |
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MichaelLamb
Newbie Joined: May-06-2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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I have a 78 Nautique with a 1990 351W PCM. My problem is that I have no voltage under the solenoid. When I turn the key nothing happens. I have measured the voltage at different points. Battery 12.6, top post of solenoid is 12.6, voltage on solenoid coming from neutral safety switch switch with key turned to start position is 10.6. Voltage at ignition switch in start position is 10.6.
Tried jumping the solenoid, got no spark. Tried 3 different batteries, 2 solenoids and 2 ignition switches... same. If I take jumper cables from a running car and go directly to the starter, the starter turns and when I turn the key to the start (not run) position, it tries to fire. I am thinking bad ground somewhere? Bad solenoids? Why don't I get spark when I jump the solenoid? |
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Delray Beach 78 Nautique
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