No Spark to Distributor - Voltage diagram included

Weakest link in the system was the points grounding themselves out. They were clean and gapped properly however someplace in the hinge portion something was compromised and at certain points would break current. New points and condenser and it's running smooth.

Thanks for the advice.

-Cheers!

Make sure you're not grounding the coil directly to the block the coil "-" doesn't mean negative in the traditional sense here. It's just for a wire coming from the distributor and a wire for the tach signal.

Also, make sure the body of the ballast resister isn't some how grounding to the block. I've never heard of this happening actually, just trying to figure out the big drop from one side of the resister to the other.

I know mine has a group of wires that are sleeved together and run on top or near the valve covers. Still suspicious about these being disturbed. Meaning, they had to be moved most likely, and the wires have some years on them. Just wondering if some broken down insulation could have started touching.

Have Fun! wrote: Getting 9.4 to the resistor with 4.5 to the coil, new coil and resistor so that shouldn't be an issue.

You should be getting close to the battery volts to the resistor. As Brian mentioned, disconnect the choke to take it out of the scenario and get the voltages again. Are the volt readings during cranking?

Is it turning over or not as Tim has questioned?

Getting 9.4 to the resistor with 4.5 to the coil, new coil and resistor so that shouldn't be an issue.

Points and condenser appear to be in great shape, no burn marks. Key is always turned off in-between checking for issues.

Order of events:
Rebuilt carb, installed carb, fired up in driveway, set idle, lake test, discovered oil leaking from starboard valve cover. Removed exhaust manifold, removed valve cover, adjusted valve gasket (gasket slipped behind middle bottom bolt on instillation) reinstalled cover and exhaust manifold, back for Lake test #2 and boat won't turn over.

Back to the garage, Spark plug to block - no spark, pulled distributor to check point gap & points - no spark. Boat has been sitting for the last 2.5 years thought the shock of running the boat to the system may of fried coil, installed new battery (original battery was week), installed new coil and starter solenoid. (solenoid was for good measure.) Still no spark.

Stumped I took the boat to local mechanic for some advise, his recommendation always replace ballast resistor when replacing coil. Thought new coil is fried because ballast resistor went out and was the cause of all problems. Ordered new coil and ballast resistor, installed, still no spark.

I originally checked everything with a circuit tester, this morning I went through the system with a volt meter thinking I'm loosing power someplace the circuit tester isn't telling me. Went though every electrical connection on the engine this morning as well, everything got hit with emory cloth and dielectric grease, all connections are good.

Just took a look at the Choke, Spring internally seems to be complete and functioning properly. Also re examined the valve cover and manifold, all wiring seems to be good. Only guess is that maybe some oil from the gasket somehow got into the starter and is causing a short of some sort? But that's just a wild theory, havet examined the starter yet, not sure if that's even possible.

Thanks for the insight!

Hey everyone!

Update on the 89... Dipped and rebuilt the carb to solve my idle issue. Took it out for a shakedown run everything ran great except an oil leak on a valve cover gasket. Back to the garage, fixed the leak, then back to the lake and the boat won't tun over... No spark at points.... Very confused what caused this literally overnight.

Been chasing my tail around the wiring harness this past week, We've got a new battery, starter selonoid , ballast resistor, and Coil, voltage has improved but still no spark.

Performed and audit on the electrical system this morning and it appears I'm loosing a volt at the ignition switch and approximately 2 volts at the alternator. leaving me with only 4.5 volts out of the ballast resistor into the coil.

My questions: Is it normal to loose 2 volts in the alternator, if not suggestions to improve voltage, and how about ignition, is loosing a volt there normal as well?

Thanks guys!

Here's map of my voltage, voltage readings in green.