1970 correct craft Newport help

Using the crank bolt to turn the engine is great (and convenient, at least on a direct drive) but it is NOT the way to break an engine free if it's stuck. Break that bolt and you've got another big problem on your hands.

Pull the starter and get a big bar on the flywheel- much safer and more effective. Let the kerosene, ATF or ATF+acetone soak in the cylinders for a while if at all possible. Overnight at a minimum, but a week or more sure wouldn't hurt.

Tranny fluid (ATF) mixed with acetone 50/50 works wonders. Might be worth a try.

Your best bet is to try and get something on the crank pulley nut. You want to take the plugs out to make it easier...

even better, I've seen stuff about getting a little mystery oil etc down the plug holes to help free up the pistons.

I think you're absolutely right. I agree with you.




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Anyone tgat wanted to see my Freeport pictures look at this thread http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33737&PID=434601񪆩

title is "Freeport fuel tank?"

Send me an email jtfila at gmail and I will post your pics.

I give up trying to post this picture. Can I send these pictures to someone in an email and they can post them on here for me

stroker221 wrote: SNobsessed wrote: To reiterate what was said earlier - before you even back it off the trailer, check for water leaks (I think the exhaust hose is a concern). Also make sure it is pumping water - the raw water pump can deteriorate just like on our inboards. It's been a long time since I had an I/O but I think there may be some grease zerks on the ujoints you can lube. Last thought - get some of the 'ear muffs' that allow you to run off the hose so you can debug it at home & not tie up the ramp. Good luck on your adventure. so will I need the hose hooked up to make sure it pumping like it should?

Keep in mind with the earmuffs it's still hard to gauge that it's "sucking water like it should". If there's no water coming out the exhaust in... 20 seconds??... Abort and check impeller.

SNobsessed wrote: To reiterate what was said earlier - before you even back it off the trailer, check for water leaks (I think the exhaust hose is a concern). Also make sure it is pumping water - the raw water pump can deteriorate just like on our inboards. It's been a long time since I had an I/O but I think there may be some grease zerks on the ujoints you can lube. Last thought - get some of the 'ear muffs' that allow you to run off the hose so you can debug it at home & not tie up the ramp. Good luck on your adventure.

so will I need the hose hooked up to make sure it pumping like it should?

I'm just anxious to get it checked out, and a tune up and get it in the water to hopefully find out it doesn't need much then I have a month to do preventative maintenance before I go on my 4 hour trip to dale hollow

One more tip on pictures. If you're taking them on a mobile phone, you basically have to email them to yourself, and then download them to your desktop on a regular computer, then you can upload them.

Alright thanks orlando I'm just learning about the different drives and how it all works so this is helpful.

My dad had one of those OMCs,a 69 year, it may have been an Electra shift. I remember it went into gear very smooth, but that's about it did well. And we couldn't use reverse, because after we broke our 3rd electric tilt motor, we just left it out.

One good thing it did was peek my interest in wiring, because we had one full on electrical fire onboard.

Let's just say my father is currently very happy with his 8hp two stroke mercury outboard.

Stroker,
Most of us don't mean to sound so negative but an I/O is bad enough brand new on the show floor, then add some barn time and 44 years to it makes it even harder. In the boating world there's 2 groups of people: Outboard guys and inboard guys, no I/O guys. There is a reason for that and it is maintenance. Don't let whatever happens give you a bad taste with boating or inboards/correct crafts. Get your Freeport going for the summer, find your niche in the boating world and hopefully CC will have a boat to fill it. Start looking for a replacement after the summer. Hands down, a straight inboard with a carb'd V8 has the least maintenance, most powerful and most bang for your buck and fairly easy to work on.

Ok that looks like a good site with everything I'll need. Thanks.. Since these boats are somewhat rare, I can't find anything on which mercruiser it has.. If they only put one type of upper&lower on for that year which one would it be? Mc1&R, MR & ALPHA 1, ALPHA 1 GEN II, or BRAVO 1 & II?