To lube or not to lube....(prop taper)

Every day

Tim D wrote: Mighty early in the morning to be talking about lubing your shaft.

I personally would suggest avoiding any lubricant since I don't want someone getting the idea that more is better and then over applying it. If you do use a lubricant, the lighter the better (10W) and only a very light film. I would not use grease as it may not completely squeeze out and prevent full contact with the taper surfaces.

The prop is nickle - brass - aluminum, doesn't react with the stainless shaft. Fifa 15 Coins

I just replace my original prop on my '01 Air. It had oil on the key and shaft. I got the slightest curl bend on the tip of one blade. I visited a pier I've never been to before. The only thing I can think of is while holding the boat in waist deep water, the prop hit a root riding down a roller coming in. When I left the pier I heard a new whirl sound, couldn't feel vibration though. No scratches, the patina not even messed up. I know I didn't hit anything while it was spinning. Any way, I guessed it came from the factory with oil.

I have always put them on dry,
But if it is a new prop it always helps to get some lapping compound and, spend a few minutes lapping it in, then wipe it down before installing.
I do however put a little grease on the nut, a little on the threads and a little on the face of it will reduce friction and help it tighten up.

Sounds like Quinner's tool box has another use

I could take a photo of the instructions and post it, but have to run to work. Here is a typed quote....note step 5....

ACME MARINE GROUP PROP PULLER INSTRUCTIONS
(for the traditional style puller-part #228S)

1. Remove the cotter pin. Loosen the prop nut two turns (do not remove the nut). You want approximately 2 full threads of space between the nut and prop hub.
2. Back out the prop puller bolt to allow for installation of the puller. The puller "fingers" slide between the forward end of the prop hub and aft of the strut. The puller bolt cap is positioned over the end of the shaft aft of the prop.
3. Advance the puller bolt clockwise with a wrench. Do not over-tighten. The purpose of tightening is not to break the prop free, but to apply ample pressure on the end of the shaft and the forward end of the prop hub to transfer the shock, during impact, with a hammer.
4. Once the puller is firmly in place and the puller is tightened down, hit the puller on the end opposite the bolt, with a hammer (it is also possible to hit the head of the puller bolt, hitting it on the finger end is preferred, to avoid causing damage to the bolt, cap or bolt threads). It may be necessary to repeat steps 3 & 4. The hammer impact and harmonics should be enough to break the prop free form the shaft taper. Once free, remove the nut prop, and key( if app).
5. When reinstalling the propeller, a very light film of grease or anti-seize on the shaft/bore taper is acceptable, but do not over-apply. Also do not over-tighten the prop nut. Approximately 35 foot pounds is sufficient.

It does not say what type of taper splined or otherwise....weird.

Corey.

-1 on the lube!

If the prop was stainless then it might want to seize. The prop is nickle - brass - aluminum, doesn't react with the stainless shaft.

Hi all.

I bought myself a nice shiny new ACME puller today, and it worked like a charm. I put my prop on and ran the boat once this past month, and I couldn't budge it off without a puller. Now, I did not put any neverseize on the taper because I read Peter's great post about lapping and so on. However, the info that came with the puller says that a slight amount of grease or antiseize is acceptable.

What are you all doing? Dry fit? Tiny bit of neverseize? Dab of grease?

I searched but could not find a definitive answer.

Thanks.

Corey.