TSC1 Nautique Top Speed?

Yeah... you need a little more rpm going up river... a good driver has no problem compensating... trying to find out how to get the wife there..

skutsch wrote: Like Tim says, if you are using a GPS based system (Speed control or speedometer) that device will indicate actual speed over land (or in this case water).

I know what you meant but you mis-stated an important distinction... GPS speed is never measured over water (which could by its nature, be moving due to current, etc), but always over land.   Think of it as measuring speed over the river (or lake) bottom. Rpm and local speed sensors (pitots, paddle wheels, etc) are only capable of controlling speed over the surface of the water.

Without looking at the rule book, I'm fairly certain that tournament scores require accuracy in regards to timing through the course, and does not contain provisions for speed (regardless of how it's measured or how much it varies).

Seems like people are talking different speed control systems and confusing the issue.

Both stargazer and earlier versions of pp have an rpm mode that you can use if you'd like. If using speed control mode on an earlier version I uses a paddle wheel and it measures speed over water. It's inaccurate above 40 (dads 03 said it ran 49 on pp but GPS said 45-46).   Stargazer uses GPS to set the speed in speed mode, which measures speed over land.

If you are pulling through an anchored slalom course, stargazer speed mode will give you accurate speed through the buoys. If you are free skiing on a river and concerned about speed over water, rpm mode in either system will get you there, as will speed mode in an earlier paddle wheel version.

Zero off for the DBW boats operates the same as pp SG.

Kind of like landing an hour early on a 5 hour flight because you get a favorable tail wind.

If the river is flowing at 3 mph it will affect your GPS, just run both directions on the river and average your speed with GPS.

As far as heating up while running hard make sure your timing is adjusted properly. A couple degree's too much can easily heat up the heads or if more advanced burn a piston. I know the Chevy blocks don't want more than 36-37 degree's or with Vortec heads more like 28 degree's timing at full throttle above 3,000 rpm. Fords are close to those numbers but I don't know for sure. You can check this with a set back timing light, they have a dial that lets you check the timing at various RPM, timing at idle is not nearly as important as proper timing at 3,000-3,500 RPM.

Why do you think he didn't bring his boat this year? Damn campground hasn't removed that log yet.

quinner wrote: My TSC2 206 has been clocked at over 80mph and that's a fact, ask Paul Gundriver, Joe in NY or Timmy, they can all verify!!

That was going backwards too. Would have been faster cept for that pesky log...

How does star gazer deal with river currents or do you just have to calculate manually?

Ok... just out on lake tinkering with perfect pass etc... and decided to calibrate to gps and I found everything dead on at 34.2 mph and 36 mph but I found the paddle wheel was lying to me wot and showing 47.2 yet the fastest I read on gps was toggling between 45 and 46. again I am at 2461ft above sea level if that matters. Crazy that the airguide was more accurate.

So I wonder if replacing the paddle wheel would help increase the accuracy.

At 36 mph everything just sounds and feels right on that boat!

I don’t know that I would agree that it is completely irrelevant. While under most cases where my temp creeps up under high speed runs I find that it is due to a slight deficiency in my cooling system (IE my hi-tech strainer/transmission cooler has some weeds in it) the tune of the engine at wot can significantly effect the heat load of the engine and the ability of the cooling system to react to it.   IMHO/limited experience the GT40 engines run relatively lean on the top end compared to the big ol calibrated leaks Trbenj or myself are currently running and that can greatly increase cylinder head temp and show up on the temp gauge.   Either way if it gets hot(hotter) at speed you might want to find out why or not run it like that.   Check strainer, for belt slippage at high speed, leaks, then impeller, if those are good change the thermostat out/check for other system blockages. Still having an issue check the timing and do some plug chops. If all that is perfect and you still have some high speed high temp issues then look at the circulating pump, I have seen the vanes on cheapo replacements rust off to nothing, and have seen the expensive bronze bidirectional ones where the impeller spun on the shaft internal to the pump.   Both of those I only found after I caused massive internal damage to the engine but running it hot wide open – apparently the valves and the pistons aren’t supposed to be in the same place at the same time.   

My temps fluctuate a bit, but not more than 10-15 degrees.......although its hard to tell with the new temp gauge I recently installed. As long as it never hits 180, I'm not worried.

The graduations make it difficult to get an accurate reading.

VDO Gauge

I never took a look to see what thermostat my boat has but I'd suspect HW is right...

Seb, mine idles at 160F but running wot for a few mins mine dips even cooler maybe 158ish. I'd check your water pump and hoses... make sure it is sealed up well and you have the right impeller in.

As far as running wide open of course pulling out I roll throttle down to the floor then I back to the desired speed. for me footing is typically around 3800-3900 rpm right around 40..

Hollywood wrote: Tim is misleading you a bit.

Thx Hollywood. But I did listen to him anyway and ordered a 422 prop, hoping that Nautiquehunter can borrow me a prop puller

No plate but I'd ignore it if it did... I tear off the tag on my mattress too.

5200 here, 80 degree water and it doesn't creep up.