Trailer Light Testing

62 wood wrote: 63 Skier wrote: Now need to install some LED backup lights. David What kind of lights are you planning to install? I wanted to add auxiliary back up lights on my plow truck, but worried about breaking them off when backing thru snow windrows. I ended up installing replacement LED bulbs in place of the stock backup bulb. They work great and are probably twice as bright a the stockers.

I picked up a pair of Baja round LED's, was able to compare a few brands at the parts store (awesome guy there let me open boxes and put the leads to a battery to try them), these seemed bright and brackets looked good. I guarantee I'll hit them at some point, I'm brutal about backing up into snow banks. I'm going to tuck them under the bumper at either side of the trailer hitch so they will be somewhat protected.

I'd like to run them to a switch in the cab, but may take the easy way out and just wire them to the backup lights. I don't think I'll bother with a relay with the low current draw of the LED's.

63 Skier wrote: Now need to install some LED backup lights.

David
What kind of lights are you planning to install? I wanted to add auxiliary back up lights on my plow truck, but worried about breaking them off when backing thru snow windrows.

I ended up installing replacement LED bulbs in place of the stock backup bulb.
They work great and are probably twice as bright a the stockers.

I meant to follow up on the plow harness. Here's a few pictures showing the ugly connectors.





I cleaned them up as best I could, plus cleaned every electrical connection I could find. Coated all with dielectric grease, and it's working well now. I could wiggle the connector a bit and no intermittent lights so hopefully this cured the problem, at least for now. Now need to install some LED backup lights.

phatsat67 wrote: Steve, I am looking into a foreclosure with some land enough to utilize our 56 Farmall Cub. I have been actively looking for the dual mount snow plow and grater blade since my DD is 2wd. Will also need to find some front and rear wheel weights for the rig too. So if you see anything like that up your way let me know

I guess I missed this Zach.You looking for a plow like this?-
I rigged up a hydraulic blade direction rather than keep getting off to
do it,sure made life easier. Just so you know,you are looking for some of the most wanted items for a cub. Check out these sites- Cub forum
JP Tractor Salvage

Hollywood wrote: You can tell its winter when you guys get your snow plow boners.

too cold to boat...

You can tell its winter when you guys get your snow plow boners.

Nothing runs like a deer eh?

Snow blowers are pretty amazing. We still have a half ton Dodge with a Meyer and my dad's older 3/4 ton with the straight poly boss. I love Meyers for their own reasons but I must say that boss hasn't given us a minute of trouble and it's gotta be at least 10+ years old. Seals on the Meyer pumps are their weak point.

Steve, I am looking into a foreclosure with some land enough to utilize our 56 Farmall Cub. I have been actively looking for the dual mount snow plow and grater blade since my DD is 2wd. Will also need to find some front and rear wheel weights for the rig too. So if you see anything like that up your way let me know

skutsch wrote: Those Boss plows are solid, we have a Power - V up at the Tree farm on an old F-250, The V is great for opening up the roads after a big snow, that rig will go through anything. Oh and when you get your truck start, you can use the V to push yourself backwards...

Have to agree Steve, I bought my first plow in 1978... bought my Boss V a few years ago.. Would never go "straight" again!   

phatsat67 wrote: Uhh o, don't let Workman see your plow rig. He will be smitten!!

Zach, Got to love a those good ol Chebies! I actually have been quite content with my plow... other than I would love to make a pair of wings for it someday.


The V does go thru about anything.. However, I did find it's limitations in this storm a couple of years ago.
    



ohhh, btw, I cant use my new battery charger as a 12 volt source. It has to sense a battery before it will produce any voltage.

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Ok, I guess I should have realized dielectric was non conductive. Seems to me the conductive grease could create a chance of shorting across contacts since they are pretty close together. I'll get it cleaned up and let you know how it goes, hope to have time tomorrow.

8122pbrainard wrote: David, If you can't tighten the plug by bending ether the male or female, there are conductive greases available. They also prevent corrosion. The down side to the grease is the expense!

I have dielectric grease, is that what you mean? Or is there something better?

David,
If you can't tighten the plug by bending ether the male or female, there are conductive greases available. They also prevent corrosion. The down side to the grease is the expense!

63 Skier wrote: Pete, was my answer what you were looking for, are we talking about the same module? On a subject kind of related to my initial wiring question - my plow connector is not connecting solidly, having trouble with plow lights and have to wiggle the plug into a specific position. It's a 12 pin on 2 rows, with pins similar to trailer wire flat connector pins. I think I can clean up the male pins OK, but is there a way to clean the sockets? I'll use dielectric grease, but is there any way to kind of renew the connection so they plug firmly in place again?

Yes, thanks for the input. I have looked at the remote modules but my diesel guy sticks with the OEM location. If they were under a year old, at least Stanadyne has picked up the cost of the module itself.

The female connections can be tough to clean up depending on the size. I have used small wire brushes and even pipe cleaner folded over in the Dremel. If you can't find small cylindrical Dremel brushes, McMaster has some minature tube brushes The shank dia. can be an issue in the collet of the Dremel but I've also stuck the brush in an electric drill. The "quick and dirty" is to wad up the corner of a scotch brite pad and try to get it in the socket.

Ah those were the days, slapping copper and watching the world go by thru the holes in the floor of my Chevy

Hollywood wrote: Compared to?

Hollywood wrote: Compared to?

Well anything. I'm an independent electrical contractor specializes in concerts/film shoots and industrial. My claims to fame would be working in the sugar mills in south FL where 277 is the control voltage and the motors run 4160 straight from the line. 1200 "Assembly" lines at a steel factory. Did two expansions for Piper Plastics along with rebuilding 2 of their injection units (know them Pete?) prior to wiring their new plant with 10,000 amps 480v. All on my own dollar.DC just doesn't travel well which is frustrating then 12v no matter if it's alternating or not stops at the slightest corrosion or the thinnest layer of paint. With 12v you have to find the problems, 277 and up..... The problem is apparent and easy, often finding you.