Furnace question

jbear wrote: hmm...no answer Pete...maybe he used his head and headed south. john

Or he tried to jumper the wires under the red and yellow wire nuts and now is too embarrassed to reply!

Gary S wrote: Braved the cold to get a jumper in the other garage

And, any results?

Thats the plan Peter. Braved the cold to get a jumper in the other garage but then went inside and sat by the fireplace,will look at the heater tomorrow- maybe.

I heard something about Chicago Beers and with gas and me being cheap, here I am.

And I missed doing this-

Ill second peters suggestion of heading south. What the hell are you doing up here?

peter1234 wrote: no pete all good hvac guys carry 2 sets one easy on uninsulated and one line voltage insulated

Peter,
I'll never forget one day when I was up on the roof with one of the guys from our HVAC firm trouble shooting one of the rooftops. He had forgotten his jumpers in his other bag and it was down in his truck. He was absolutely lost!!

Gary,
When you find the high limit, jumper it out. All good HVAC guys carry jumper wires with alligator clips on each end! Then see if it makes a difference.

it might be your fan proving switch timing out the flame once in a while . the little silver ufo looking thing next to the fan and limit (brown thing) next to the silver thingy

Gary,
I doubt it has the good "high end" Honeywell limit Steve mentions. More likely it has a "clicks-on" type and they are known to be a problem. Do you have the wiring diagram? Certainly after all the years with a Bell company you can follow it. The high limit should be labeled on the diagram. Find it and see if power (24V) is going through it when the burner shuts down.

Here a pic of the controls- What is what?? I guess there is no board it's all sealed

You guys are going to have to come down to my level, tip and ring what is the high limit? is that a sensor that looks for a overheat? Joe this unit while having a circut board has no lights,and just keeps running like it has for the last couple of hours,ie no lock out. Thermostat is just a 2 wire cheapy. I put it everything in back in 95 and other than the flame sensor and 1 exhaust blower,it has been fine and has had no other changes. This problem started last year and frankly not being around I didn't worry about heat in the garage! Could I short the thermostat wires together and see if that changes the operation to eliminate thermostat problems. Or is that a no no on a furnace with a board?

What's the control board flashing at you?   You don't happen to have it blowing directly on the thermostat do you? The flame proving switch should lock out after a few failures for an hour or so, so if it is actually starting up each time and just short cycling that shouldn't be the issue.

We have an old in our north heated building. It always fires right up but blows out Luke warm air. I need to get up there and investigate further. I feel the excess amount of dust and such from the previous owner may be preventing proper transfer of heat to the air passing by.

Call me tomorrow sir. Outside of that I know basically nothing about furnaces and can't help although I am willing to learn.

Gary,
Check the high limit control. Get the volt meter out and trace to confirm. Is there enough air moving through the unit? Remember what I am always saying about testing first before becoming a "parts changer"?    An IR temp meter would be useful to check the temp directly next to the limit to see if it's good or not.

Bummer Gary, I will come take it off your hands so you don't have to take it to the dump yourself