VDO Tach Dipswitch Settings w/Protec

This turned out to be an issue with the signal from ProTech. Even with another gauge I had the same problem so I put this one back in.

Not sure I can be of much help as we only utilized that tach maybe 2 years have only been into it a few times way back in the day.

So I snagged a beat-up, used Faria Euro White tach on ebay as a replacement/test mule. Re-painted the bezel, then tried to install it. Friggin' thing doesn't have spade connectors- it has super long posts for all connections in the back and of course all the mounting hardware was missing as were all the brass nuts and washers for the posts. As i got into it there were so many things about it that were not compatible with the current installation, including bracket configuration, without some pretty major hacking. I made pigtails with ring terminals for all the post connectors, purchased nuts at Ace, and after screwing with it last night for an hour I threw in the towel and stepped back. Re-installed the VDO. Sometimes you just get too far down the rabbit hole without realizing it's just the wrong damn part.

My guess is there are multiple configurations for the Faria replacement gauges and I got one for a different application. Confirming that now.

In the mean time, anybody get a chance to look at their VDO dip switch settings?

There is a hole in the Internet with regard to dip switch settings for an 8-switch 12V VDO tach. My tach on the 93 is WAY off, as in not even remotely close to the actual RPM. Lots of info on 3-switch setups. None on 8-switchers.

This particular tach has 8 dip switches on the back. I have no reason to assume that anyone has fooled with this as the dash looks like it's never been taken off of this boat. Still, I'd like to make sure these dip switch settings are right.

If someone w/Protec who has this gauge could just take a quick peek at the dip switch settings and snap a pic that would certainly help me out, and patch a big hole in the Internet at the same time.