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air fuel screws

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fredo68 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fredo68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: air fuel screws
    Posted: May-17-2006 at 2:45pm
sounds like a power valve...
but woodboy doesnt have a
torque wrench.

ha ha

fredo68
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skyhawkflyer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2006 at 10:52pm
I found this:

Power valve: If you have to change the power valve then use an adjustable wrench or socket. Place in a vise with wood on each side of the vise jaws so you don't damage it. Tighten to the following specs. For power valve with multiple drilled fuel opening, torque to 40-50 inch pounds. For power valve with 2 rectangular fuel openings, torque to 100 inch pounds.
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skyhawkflyer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2006 at 10:30pm
When installing hold the pv between your thumb and pointer finger with the small end pointed up. Put the gasket on the valve and center it. Hold the pv still and spin on your metering block until the gasket is seated. This way your gasket wont get off center and cocked-causing a leak. Torque to 80 inch lbs and your done. Ahh, maybe it was 50 inch lbs? I can't remeber, does anybody out there know off hand?
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GottaSki View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2006 at 2:53pm
Jegs, p/n 510-125-65

8 bucks.

Most opt for the 6.5.
I've used up to an 8.5 with excellent results.
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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Derby View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Derby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2006 at 1:56pm
skyhawkflyer,

I'm in the process of closing my carb up. It appears as I had a 3.5 PV originally and the kit came with the 2.5 PV. Can you buy just the valve somewhere?

More pressing is the length of the valve. The spring seat on the end of the shaft seems to be threaded on quite a few more turns on the existing PV. I can’t see a way to make the new one the same size with out ripping the diaphragm.

Any ideas, or is this what makes 3.5 a 3.5?

Thanks for you help. The first rebuild is going super smooth....so far.


So It Goes!
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skyhawkflyer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2006 at 6:46pm
Also:
If you have springs on the bowl bolts then replace with a bolt kit from Discount Inboard Marine. Shorter bolts using washers for better bowl torque down. Items 19 & 20 (x 8).
Pay close attention to your float levels, and don't change them if your boat ran good. They both may be the same, or your rear float may be set lower than the front float. Put in the new needles and seats and set them the same as they currently are.
Soak your carb in laquer thinner and the gaskets nearly disolve and it doesn't hurt the finish, don't scrape gaskets with a screwdriver, instead use something such as a plastic knife and sharpen and shape it on a grinder. Pay attention to detail and you'll be fine!
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skyhawkflyer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2006 at 6:26pm
Correct, lightly seated, then counter c/w 1.5 turns... that should work out pretty close.
Items 40 & 41 are the power valve. There's been lots of discussion and heated debates about what number (relating to vacuum drop)to put in with regard to when the power valve opens and supplies additional fuel. The guys on the board have been saying that some of the marine carb kits have been coming with a 2.5 power valve, and seems to work ok. Others, Correctcraft, and myself highly recommend the 6.5 for a better holeshot from a dead stop used on a 4160/351 setup, I noticed a much better holeshot going to the 6.5. You should put in an entire kit, but that's up to you, a PV may be all you need. Chances are you won't get that fuel bowl and metering block off without destroying the gaskets though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 88skisupreme Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2006 at 5:50pm
Originally posted by jameski jameski wrote:

   The typical baseline is 1.5 turns off the seat.


Is that starting with it screwed all the way in? 1.5 turns counter clockwise?
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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2006 at 1:36pm
Holley + backfire = you need a new power valve.

power valve is # 40
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john33617 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john33617 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2006 at 12:36pm
backfire = blown power valve
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GottaSki View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2006 at 8:36am
That setting is not lean, its rich.

Else I agree with james something else is amiss.
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jameski View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jameski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-14-2006 at 10:31pm
Yes Rob, that does sound too lean for your idle enrichment screws. The typical baseline is 1.5 turns off the seat. Your diagnosis of a shot power valve sounds right on. If you haven't done a full rebuild in a while, then you might want to go ahead and get a full kit.
current boat
94 Sport Nautique
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78 Martinique
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woodboy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote woodboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-14-2006 at 3:59pm
Any one know a good baseline for adjusting the screws on both sides of a holley 4160 carb? This is on a 79 commander 351W. It seems to run best 1/4 turn on spotter side 1/2 on driver side. Seem way lean to me but anyting else is rich enough to make your eyes water. The boat did backfire this spring. Could this be a compensation for a shot powervalve. I need a carb doctor. Thanks Rob
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