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HELP - Not Started in 5 Years!

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jbear View Drop Down
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    Posted: May-31-2006 at 4:56pm
79: Thanks. Actually she is real quiet so I think I'll leave well enough alone. Don't want to get in over my head. You know my skill level.

john
"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-31-2006 at 4:44pm
don't use kerosene you can junk the motor very quickly as it washes away the oil on the bearing journals. For the gumout is that the carb cleaner or oil treatment?

Basicly tranny fluid has a high detergent content put still has some lubricating properties, the kerosene and gumout nutralize and breakdown the oil so they are intended for quick flush type applications where you pour it in then drain it out 5-10 min later. The tranny fluid does a better job and you can leave it in longer and not worry about damaging the bearings or engine components.

Make sure it's dextron II or III and not type F tranny fluid.

John it wouldn't hurt but with your short lay-up period I would sweat it unless you hear a lifter ticking but then that just maybe a flattened cam lobe or loose rail bolt for the valve tran with the hours on yours.
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jbear View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-31-2006 at 12:37pm
79: Am interested in your "tranny fluid" idea. Would you recomend doing this yearly? In an old engine like mine do you think it would help "loosen" things up? Thanks.

john
"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...
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Nautique2001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-31-2006 at 11:13am
Great job! Happy to hear that you're good to go. Enjoy and send us some pics of your boat.

Ken
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HAmick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HAmick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-31-2006 at 8:26am
the belts were new when I put is away sooo long ago and though I can hardly believe it they are still in great shape. I turned them inside out and no cracks! The impeller looks pretty good to. (however, I have a spare set of both in the boat)

I bought a bottle of gum out but haven't used it yet. A guy I work with told me to use a qt of kerosene but I was afraid to.

Anyone remember the temp of the thremostat. Its been a long time..... 142? I seem to remember it was odd.
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-30-2006 at 7:41pm
Now that you have it running drain out a little of the oil if you can, about a qt, and add a qt of tranny fluid back in the block, run it for an hour or two not hard or at high rpm but normal and get the engine good and hot (normal temp 160-180), pay attention to the water temp and all of the gauges make sure they are reading normal. Then drain the oil and change the filter. This will help clean out the internals and free up any sticky lifters and rings in the process. Now your ready to go through the belts, hoses,t-stat and impeller and replace them with new for a worry free summer of enjoyment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HAmick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-30-2006 at 10:12am
SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks so much for all the advice, I put in new heavy guage battery cables, couldn't find fogging oil so I removed the plugs and squirted in WD40, truned it over a few times, squrited in more. I let it sit over night, add a little more put the plugs back in. 2 shots of starting fluid and 2 tries later it started!!!!!!! Oh yeah, new points and condencer too.

I never thought it would start so easily!

Now to get the old oil out and fresh in, new packing and cleaning and with luck its to the lake friday afternooon!
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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2006 at 3:37pm
Yes the water pump can be rebuilt. Call skidim with model number and order a seal kit. If it was leaking real bad the bearing might need to be changed. When you take the pump apart, pay close attention to the order the parts come out (washer,spring etc) The bearing should be standard and you can get it at NAPA.
Tim D
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HAmick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2006 at 2:50pm
Well Atmspltr.. I posted that in the other forum, the underseat cooler is busted too! I guess I could get out the old Igloo but I alawys hated to clutter up floor with it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Atmspltr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2006 at 2:40pm
Most importantly, I'm sure the ice in the cooler has melted by now and your beer is hot. Replace the ice and beer and it'll make all the other tasks these guys are talking about go alot easier.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HAmick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2006 at 1:47pm
I've already ordered new packing, it was time for that the last time I used it. Still have a new impeller but that does remind me of something else. The raw water pump was leaking at the shaft, can those things be rebuilt?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2006 at 1:27pm
I would go ahead and put 92 or 93 octane in your boat. Put the carburetor cleaner in first so the gas from the pump will mix in nicely. I'd also pick up a spray can of carburetor cleaner to spray inside the carburetor once it starts and is warming up. This will help remove any gunk build up. A new fuel filter might help too. All of the recommendations in this thread are great and inexpensive, except for a full tank of high octane! Make a trip to Auto Zone or any automotive car car center.

Ken
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2006 at 1:15pm
After doing what David said, put a new impellor in and when you put it in the water for the first time, check the stuffing box before you back off the trailer.
Tim D
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HAmick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2006 at 1:13pm
All great ideas... please keep 'em coming!

Pulling the distributor, not sure my skill level is up to that, I would have to reset the timing when I replace it right?

Would you put carburetor cleaner in the first tank? Will that make starting it he first time harder?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2006 at 12:28pm
Definitely change the engine oil and check the transmission fluid. The fluid should be red and not milky. Not a bad idea to change it anyway. If your battery hasn't been charged in five years, it's probably no good. You don't want to get stuck out on the water.
Also, check the condition of your belts. Are they cracked? Are they snug? Make sure you fill your tank with fresh gas. I would use higher octane gas. Pour some carburetor cleaner in your gas tank. That's my advice. Keep us posted!

Ken
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AWhite70 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2006 at 11:56am
When I rebuilt my engine I bought an oil pump priming tool. It was less than $10 but worth it in my opinion. You pull the distributor out and drop in the tool (it consists of a plate to cover the distributor hole and a shaft that goes down and engages the oil pump drive. You then hook a drill up to the shaft and spin the oil pump. This will pump oil throughout the engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2006 at 11:50am
Fogging oil is used to coat the cylinder walls with oil prior to extended layup periods. You might be able to find it at the autoparts store, but I get mine at the marine store. Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders will also work, but is harder to get into the cylinders. Fogging oil comes in a can with a straw and can be easily sprayed into the cylinders.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HAmick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2006 at 10:37am
Other than the carburetor I think I can do those things... what is refogging oil and where can I get it? Any autoparts store?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2006 at 10:17am
Well, to me, the biggest worry is dry cylinder walls and bearing surfaces. So, I would remove the spark plugs, ground the coil and then spray fogging oil, liberally, in each cylinder. No worries of "hydrolock" as the spark plugs are removed. Now turn the crankshaft with a socket placed on the crank hub bolt. Turn in the same direction as the rotation of your engine so that the oil pump will prime (you replaced the oil first, right?). Turn the engine by hand for several revolutions to distribute the fogging oil and to pump oil to the bearing surfaces. Now, refog and crank the engine with the starter to build oil pressure (spark plugs still removed) and to get rid of excess fogging oil. Replace the plugs and start the engine. It may not want to run due to a varnished up carburetor. If so, remove and rebuild the carburetor. You should have drained and replaced the old fuel in the tank and replaced the fuel/water seperator.

Maybe others will chime in with more suggestions, but that is what I would do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HAmick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2006 at 10:16am
I have been told to fill the engine with Kerosene then turn it by hand a dozen or so times then turn it with starter as few minutes. After that drain it, change the oil and then try to start it........??????
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2006 at 9:36am
well tell use what you know and we'll correct you, if needed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HAmick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2006 at 9:26am
I'm getting my 87 SN ready for the water after 5 years. Can anyone tell me the right way get it ready to start? I been told lots of things but I'm not sure what true and not true.
Thanks
Hal
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