Eaton Drive Identification Etc.

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   I'm late to this thread.  Glad you were able to find Jim's number.  He is very helpful.  Manifolds for those small block 6's don't come up too often.  This one is on ebay and is supposedly for one.  It doesn't seem to have the intake manifold built in to it like ours does, so it may not be for the engine that the guy thinks it is.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-6-200-Dearborn-Interceptor-marine-engine-manifold-econ-o-power-Mustang-/321732916480?hash=item4ae8c6b500&vxp=mtr

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Riley Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7954	Post Options Post Reply Quote Riley Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Eaton Drive Identification Etc. Posted: April-27-2015 at 9:51am
	I'm late to this thread. Glad you were able to find Jim's number. He is very helpful. Manifolds for those small block 6's don't come up too often. This one is on ebay and is supposedly for one. It doesn't seem to have the intake manifold built in to it like ours does, so it may not be for the engine that the guy thinks it is. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-6-200-Dearborn-Interceptor-marine-engine-manifold-econ-o-power-Mustang-/321732916480?hash=item4ae8c6b500&vxp=mtr

Glassdog Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: October-31-2014 Location: Pennsylvania Status: Offline Points: 62	Post Options Post Reply Quote Glassdog Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April-26-2015 at 10:57pm
	I hear you that, I'm giving it a good shot. It would be much easier if I had run of a machine shop again

8122pbrainard Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045	Post Options Post Reply Quote 8122pbrainard Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April-26-2015 at 8:00pm
	Christopher, Save that ORIGINAL engine!! Most of the older blocks you could go .060" over. Some of the real old marinized industrial s you can go .080" or even .120"over and past that there's always sleaving. Those planetary boxes where all made damn tough. I suggested not taking it apart because they can be a real PITA to set up/adjust from scratch. If it has been abused, and say it slips in forward, typically all that's needed is tightening up the clutch drum. It's the big drum on the big threaded inner drum. There's a latch screw keeping the position.
	54 Atom 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete <

Glassdog Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: October-31-2014 Location: Pennsylvania Status: Offline Points: 62	Post Options Post Reply Quote Glassdog Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April-26-2015 at 7:49pm
	Thanks Pete. I'm with you on the information. The drive seems pretty sound after a cursory de-gunking. Like anything else with this beauty has really been skin deep. Just looking forward on my project. Still out on the engine pending getting it back from the shop. Hopefully, I don't run into anything else with it. I have tons of glasswork to do / redo. Just trying to ascertain at this point if I can proceed with the restoration with the original engine remaining. So after further surgery stringer replacement looks immenant and if I have to re-power it will affect the direction I have to take with the motor beds. The only saving point to date is I can get my glass supplies at or below wholesale. Going to be an itchy spring.

8122pbrainard Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045	Post Options Post Reply Quote 8122pbrainard Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April-26-2015 at 6:15pm
	Christopher, You have a Paragon gear set. I'd be surprised if your trans really needed anything besides a good cleaning. Personally I would not disassemble it but just flush it. . If you do feel a bearing is needed, it's a standard bearing available at any power transmission distributor. The same is true for the rear seal. The numbers should be on them and if not, go by their measurements.
	54 Atom 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete <

Glassdog Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: October-31-2014 Location: Pennsylvania Status: Offline Points: 62	Post Options Post Reply Quote Glassdog Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April-26-2015 at 5:41pm
	Hi All! Working on the 170 cu. in. Interceptor. All is going fairly well, located (1) minor crack in water jacket, found out that the engine was bored .030 over at some point in it's life. Crank and block are out getting hot tanked and the crankshaft is getting polished (hopefully without incident) I am working diligently to save the original motor, too bad the former owner(s) ran it (the whole boat) within an inch of it's life with very little apparent mechanical ability to repair anything. I have to rebuild everything! Anyhow, here's a pic of my drive can anyone identify the series (eaton I assume) no markings surviving on it. And if you have any experience with yours and any surviving information would be helpful. I have it separated and top cap off and I'm thinking since it shared oil with the engine (likely the same oil the boat was sold with) I know at a minimum I am going to have to replace seals and probably bearings. I don't think this will be too problematic just a matter of cross referencing bearings and I am thinking I can locate a suitable shim seal pack for the output shaft as the bolt hole pattern is very like many industrial drives I have serviced - won't know until I get it loose and measure. Any help is appreciated - Thanks !

Eaton Drive Identification Etc.

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