Milky oil - Oil Cooler questions |
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geecee
Senior Member Joined: September-06-2013 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 206 |
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Posted: August-24-2015 at 1:12pm |
Thanks will give that method a bash.
I think the cooler is bad too but pressure tests says otherwise. I am going to order a new cooler when I can and replace it. Only problem is there is nothing here in South Africa so I have to order from the states and get it shipped. Right now I have just had to replace the axle on my trailer at a fair cost so I'm secretly hoping the cooler is actually okay so it's one less expense I have to get this boat on the water |
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baitkiller
Platinum Member Joined: October-11-2011 Location: SW Florida Status: Offline Points: 1693 |
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Easy method:
Take the return fitting off the cooler. Shove a length of hose over the cooler fitting with a clamp on it and run the loose end into a bucket. Pour some diesel into the gear, fire it up and let it pump out. Repeat until clean. Follow with a sacrificial quart of ATF to flush out the diesel then fill to the mark. BTW, I still suspect the cooler as bad. |
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Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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geecee
Senior Member Joined: September-06-2013 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 206 |
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Thanks Tony,
As soon as the new impeller arrives and is fitted I will run and flush the trans again. Bit of a pain draining the oil out of these things. Lets hope its just that, |
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DayTony
Gold Member Joined: June-30-2013 Location: Salem MA Status: Offline Points: 832 |
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Hi welcome to your new addiction btw.
First off Spiev was correct, if you had milky oil you want to give it more than one oil change or you will continue to see milky oil till a few more flushes.. Whenever there is a cooler involved i like to pull it off on the trans side leaving the hoses on the cooler and spray a cleaner like brake clean down through it in both directions. Empty the bottle. Then blow it out real good with an air hose, till it is dry. To answer your last question. Absolutely. If the garboard was plugged by leaves or gunk and rain water was allowed to fill up in the bilge even with the dipstick in good sealing condition it would most likely find a way to make it in there if it were to be submerged. So that's something to always be aware of if you have a failure with the bilge pump in the future. As far as the water line, it all depends on the orientation of the boat and the trailer whether it was high enough to enter the trans fill. So don't go by that alone. If you checked the cooler already and found no leak; the only other spot it can enter is the fill and the vent, if there is one. So diagnosis from this point would be to eliminate any other cause for water intrusion, and change the oil a few times, running it between changes. Then report back. remember, don't run the boat in gear out of water without spraying the cutlass or you will be replacing that too. -Tony |
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1988 Barefoot nautique-454
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geecee
Senior Member Joined: September-06-2013 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 206 |
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Tough Crowd.
Is it because im from South Africa :( yes just kidding, Well I've been doing some cosmetic work on the boat in the meantime. sorting out the seats, giving it a good clean, and noticed in the battery compartment and the 'cooler' in front of that, there was what seemed to be a waterline about 1/3 up the wall of those boxes. I havent tried to work it out yet., but could this be high enough to submerged the Transmission? or at least get to the height of the dipstick/filler opening. |
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geecee
Senior Member Joined: September-06-2013 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 206 |
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hey again,
I finally had the time to pressure test the oil cooler, all seems fine there. is there any other mechanical possibility other than that perhaps water got in through the oil filler hole. the "cap" does not fit tight so perhaps rain or something got it through there. I have only flushed the trans once, I will get some more oil and flush twice more to make sure. is there any cheaper compatible oil I can use to flush with, dex is not cheap for me in SA (at least not to me it isnt) I am glad I pulled the oil cooler though there was a lot of impeller pieces in there obviously from an old impeller failure. |
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geecee
Senior Member Joined: September-06-2013 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 206 |
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Don't apologize everywhere I looked up till now was around $200 :D
Thanks for the info guys |
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Spievy79
Groupie Joined: March-24-2014 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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Originally posted by Spievy79 Spievy79 wrote: Y but cost $2-300 unfortunately. WOW!! Please inform us where you bought the cooler so others don't make the same mistake without asking or shopping! Joe is correct on ebasic power. I have never bought one before I apologize for the false pricing info |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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WOW!! Please inform us where you bought the cooler so others don't make the same mistake without asking or shopping! Joe is correct on ebasic power. If you do find the cooler to be bad, it's simply a confirmation of the source of the water. Since they are pretty inexpensive, they are not worth opening up to repair unless it's a simple exterior seam leaking water . |
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JoeinNY
Grand Poobah Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5698 |
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Don't spend 2-300 on an oil cooler, they can be had for 100 shipped at ebasicpower and others.
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Spievy79
Groupie Joined: March-24-2014 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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You should do at least two oil changes to get all of the residual fluid out of the lines and such, three would be best. Chances are that the cooler is the culprit especially if it wasn't taken care of and left outside uncovered it may be safe to assume it was not winterized properly. If after your flushes its milky again you can use a bucket and plug one end of the cooler and use an air compressor on the other end and check for bubbles. I had a bad one in the past. They are very easy to swap out, but cost $2-300 unfortunately.
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geecee
Senior Member Joined: September-06-2013 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 206 |
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Hey all,
For those of you that saw, I am a new '83 Ski Nautique owner. I have boated for years but always with an outboard, so there is a lot that is new to me. I didn't check the oil etc when purchasing the boat (idiot) but since buying it, I found the engine oil to be perfect. The trans oil was milky. Now the boat has stood a while, and I am not 100% sure where it was kept, I know it didn't have a cover. It did have some water in the bilge when I went to view it. (It was out in the open on a trailer when I saw the advert and when I went to view it also had a few leaves and branches inside which makes me think it was outside a while) Now I didn't even know about oil coolers until I started researching on this site, I will have a look for mine (Yes I need to locate it, all new to me) when I get home from work. How can I tell if this needs to be replaced or not? Is there an easy way to test, I couldn't find any solid information on this procedure in the forum. I have drained the milky oil out and replaced with some fresh Dex III I ran the boat a bit yesterday just to let the oil move a bit. Checked again this morning after it stood last night. It is milky but not as bad as before (not sure if its from residual sludge left from the drain as yet, will run again tonight and see if it gets worse) I do plan on pulling this oil again and refilling. Not sure how to be 100% whether some water crept in through the breather or filler holes or if its a faulty oil cooler. The filler/dipstick doesnt seem to 'lock' on, the rubber is all but gone from the underside so if water got close to there I would suspect it could have made its way into the trans there. Any ideas, shoot them at me, hoping I don't have any major hassles to deal with, I stretched to buy this already hoping not to have to spend to much to get it on the water. Many thanks G |
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