Boats For Sale:
overheating issues |
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JPASS 
Grand Poobah 
Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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 Topic: overheating issuesPosted: June-17-2015 at 8:35pm |
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Hmm. I was told to replace mine every year as well. Each time I've done it the old impeller looked fine. I can see both sides of it, but for $25/year it's cheap insurance no? We put about 100 hours/year on our boat.
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: June-17-2015 at 7:55pm |
Steve, Do you work for a impeller manufacturer? I've mentioned it several times that I went almost 20 years on my X and NEVER had a problem! The last time I replaced an impeller on my Atom was 1985 and I've NEVER had a problem! The PO of my Tique put an impeller in, I've never touched it and It's NEVER had a problem! BTW, I NEVER remove them for winter lay up ether. All the BS with the impellers start from the marina's sucking more $$$! |
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shierh
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Joined: April-29-2015 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 605 |
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Posted: June-17-2015 at 10:28am |
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Replace it once a year and you will never have the same thing happen.
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Lostinattica
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Joined: May-20-2015 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Posted: June-17-2015 at 9:17am |
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Thanks for all the help guys. Hopefully I'll have the 351 commander back on the water this weekend. I ordered a direct impeller replacement for the Sherwood pump and a new gasket to for the thermostat. There was impeller pieces throughout the entire system.
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spiralhelix
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Joined: August-06-2014 Location: IL/WI Status: Offline Points: 496 |
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Posted: June-15-2015 at 6:52pm |
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found the thread
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spiralhelix
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Joined: August-06-2014 Location: IL/WI Status: Offline Points: 496 |
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Posted: June-15-2015 at 6:35pm |
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Reference Section - Engine Manual
On page 7, the engine picture the water pump is #3 and the thermostat housing is #7. they are profile views so not as clear as a front view. Hollywood posted a pic a while back that showed the water path through the t-stat housing, but I can't seem to find that thread (it's a good picture of the housing and interesting read) |
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Sleepyone
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Joined: September-05-2014 Location: Brandon Ms Status: Offline Points: 91 |
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Posted: June-15-2015 at 5:46pm |
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In this case seek a Correct Craft Mechanic.
 The thermostat will be inside the water neck where the hose connects to the intake manifold. The raw water pump will be on the front on the engine and will have a pulley and belt running it off the main drive of the engine.. you will have a alternator and a raw water pump mounted to this engine and they will have there on belt going to each. the Raw water pump will not have wires hooked to it... 
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Lostinattica
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Joined: May-20-2015 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Posted: June-15-2015 at 4:24pm |
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Ok, Thanks for all the info but where is the raw water pump located and where is the thermostat located?
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Gary S
Grand Poobah
Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: June-15-2015 at 12:08pm |
Don't know what your saying with the last part of that statement but if you connected house pressure directly to the hose your basically bypassing the raw water pump by over riding it with pressure,that section of the pump is under suction. That pump is the one that supplies the engine with the water the rest of the system. Your system does have a circulation pump and thermostat just like a car. Your problem is that drip at the strainer,try drinking thru a straw with a pin hole a couple of inches from the top. What happens is exactly what is going on with your cooling system,it must be completely sealed to pump water. Check your impeller and tighten all intake hose connections with a nut driver and fix that strainer leak and you should be good to go. |
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spiralhelix
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Joined: August-06-2014 Location: IL/WI Status: Offline Points: 496 |
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Posted: June-15-2015 at 11:35am |
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After spending many months reading threads on this group, first step seems to be to check the Raw Water Pump and make sure the impeller is in good shape. If you haven't replaced it, it should probably be replaced as Sleepyone suggested. If you find the impeller is in great shape, i believe the second step would be either to make sure that all your hose connections are tight with no air leaks or your thermostat is opening correctly. If the impeller is in terrible shape and has pieces broken off, you will want to try and find all the pieces usually starting at the thermostat. It's not the worst idea to remove the thermostat and test it (search for the method).
I would do it in stages though, don't do everything all at once. When testing for leaks, start at the RWP and work backwards to the through hull one connection at a time. I would also recommend doing your tests using the bucket method. it is the most similar to a body of water (hose can hide some problems due to it being pressurized). the RWP looks like this if you have the sherwood pump: 
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Sleepyone
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Joined: September-05-2014 Location: Brandon Ms Status: Offline Points: 91 |
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Posted: June-15-2015 at 10:34am |
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Mine was overhesting at idle and running fine at cruisin speed. It was a air leak on the hose coming from the fresh water to the pump at the end where it hooked up to the pump. Any small air leak in the line will cause it to suck air and run hot. One of the guys on here best described it like a straw. If you have ever had a drinking straw with a small hole in it you will remember how it would not let you drink from it. Well same thing. even if you dont have a water leak in the hose if it is sucking air anywhere it wont drink to cool it off. Its not designed exactly like a car. not recommending running with out Thermostate as it regultes the water into the cooling exhaust manifolds as well and removing it can cause more or less water to go a different path.. BUT YES it has a waterpump with a small rubber imperller in it if you havent replaced it you should once a year.
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Lostinattica
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Joined: May-20-2015 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Posted: June-15-2015 at 10:32am |
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BTW. I apologize, my boat is a 1986 correct craft 2001. With a 351 commander. I checked all my plumbing out and no leaks (one small drip at the strainer), and removed/cleaned out all hoses and put back on. I have a stupid question, does this boat have a water pump? Is there a thermostat like a regular car? If it was a car, I would typically just pull the thermostat to see if the restriction is corrected.
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Lostinattica
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Joined: May-20-2015 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Posted: June-15-2015 at 8:39am |
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Both ways...through the motor and then blowing out the intake port
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: June-14-2015 at 5:09pm |
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How did you hook it up to the hose ?
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Lostinattica
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Joined: May-20-2015 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Posted: June-14-2015 at 4:56pm |
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Hello, I'm needing help troubleshooting my boat overheating.
I overheated on the lake yesterday and had to be towed in. I got it home and hooked the hose up to it and ran it for a good 20 mins and didn't over heat. Went to the lake this morn and it overheated in less than 5 mins. Where should I start? |
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shierh wrote: