Shaft/Transmission Couplings

MrMcD wrote: . When you do adjust the packing nut do it on the water. Start with it pretty loose and drive the boat around. I like to have a buddy drive while I monitor the drip out the packing seal. Every time you make a slight adjustment drive it a while then recheck. Take your time do it right and do it once.   After you make an adjustment the nut will run at a new temperature based on how much water lubrication it is getting so a minor adjustment might make a big difference in drip after you drive a little.   When you get it close to correct make very fine adjustments. If you get too tight it will get warm and mess you up by shutting off the water flow. When you are done and give it the final torque on the lock nuts check it again and be sure you did not tweak it with your final torque. It has been a year since I did our new boat but I think I got it down to 12-14 drips per minute and left it. If adjusted well it will drip while in gear and not leak at all while parked.   Parked for a 3 day weekend in the lake it has almost no water in the bilge. Maybe 1 - 32 oz cup worth. I am OK with that. Good Luck with yours, be patient.

Yea that sounds a lot easier than ....put it on hook up the hose and your done, and have a dry bildge

The packing in my old boat went 20 years and 800 hours. It was the standard packing.
If we camped for 4 days with the boat in the water it would have less than a half gallon in the boat from leakage or maybe that is left over from people entering and exiting.
I never had to adjust it that whole time. If your shaft is aligned properly and the packing is set correctly so it has lubrication the stuff lasts for one heck of a long time. I see no need to upgrade to the dripless systems.   Just one guys opinion based on 30 years of tournament boat use.   Only 2300 hours so I am sure many on this forum have more experience. When you do adjust the packing nut do it on the water. Start with it pretty loose and drive the boat around. I like to have a buddy drive while I monitor the drip out the packing seal. Every time you make a slight adjustment drive it a while then recheck.
Take your time do it right and do it once.   After you make an adjustment the nut will run at a new temperature based on how much water lubrication it is getting so a minor adjustment might make a big difference in drip after you drive a little.   When you get it close to correct make very fine adjustments. If you get too tight it will get warm and mess you up by shutting off the water flow. When you are done and give it the final torque on the lock nuts check it again and be sure you did not tweak it with your final torque. It has been a year since I did our new boat but I think I got it down to 12-14 drips per minute and left it. If adjusted well it will drip while in gear and not leak at all while parked.   Parked for a 3 day weekend in the lake it has almost no water in the bilge. Maybe 1 - 32 oz cup worth. I am OK with that. Good Luck with yours, be patient.

I cut the seal pcs a little long so they would compress well. Probably not needed, just what I did.

Make sure & stagger the joints 120 deg.

yeah, i hate water in my boat too. hate it.

Gary S wrote: I'm surprised Jeff that Pete didn't mention that a dripless seal is what the name says. It's drip less not drip proof.

I don't know about that. I love mine and my bilge is dry as a bone. Hate having water in there when you don't have to, easy to clean just a wipe and your done.

jwweathers wrote: I thought installing the dripless shaft seal was gonna be a quick and easy. I wasn't aware of the interference fit between the shaft and coupling. To quote Jimmy Fallon, "Ewwwwwww"! I will just repack the original seal. Thanks for all of the helpful inputs. Jeff

Jeff,
I'm glad you decided not to go with the dripless. It's nothing but bling anyway. As mentioned, go with the Gortex. It's a great product.

While you have the coupling apart, do an alignment.

backfoot100 wrote: jwweathers wrote: I thought installing the dripless shaft seal was gonna be a quick and easy. I wasn't aware of the interference fit between the shaft and coupling. To quote Jimmy Fallon, "Ewwwwwww"! I will just repack the original seal. Thanks for all of the helpful inputs. Jeff Your other option is removing the engine, removing the prop and pulling the shaft out through the shaft log. Then you don't have to mess with the coupler. LOL

It's funny but I could probably do it that way faster. Just tried a heat fit last night with new parts and it only went half way on just like my other one

jwweathers wrote: I thought installing the dripless shaft seal was gonna be a quick and easy. I wasn't aware of the interference fit between the shaft and coupling. To quote Jimmy Fallon, "Ewwwwwww"! I will just repack the original seal. Thanks for all of the helpful inputs. Jeff

Your other option is removing the engine, removing the prop and pulling the shaft out through the shaft log. Then you don't have to mess with the coupler. LOL

BMFH

I used an old wood chisel and tapped it in between the two working my way around the couplers. They’ll come apart with some persuasion.