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replacing rear floor in 67 cc mustang

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Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: replacing rear floor in 67 cc mustang
    Posted: June-02-2006 at 10:34pm
We used to go to Pokagon State Park, Potowatomie Inn, I think it was called. Boy that is in the "way back" machine!

john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67ccmustang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2006 at 10:02pm
John - yes it is Lake James Indiana. We go there a few times a year. Have been hanging around there a long time .. I used to stay with my grandparents on Lone Tree Point in the summer.

-G
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jbear View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2006 at 6:34pm
Glenn: I noticed you said "Lake James" eariler in your post. Would that be the one in Indiana? Used to go there as a kid. Nice place. There is another member here that is on that lake. Forgot his name. Has an older C/C. You could maybe hook up if I could remember his name....senior moment.

john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2006 at 10:50am
Be really careful with the 5200 ....I use it on some places my wooden boat. It is considered a permanent joint and is not easily taken apart.. GOOD stuff tho!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67ccmustang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2006 at 7:52am
I ordered the Dr. Rot CPES product. The gentleman on the phone was very helpful to determine how much I should order.

I will screw the new floors to the stringers as per the factory design, and will use waterproof caulk or liquid nails between the floor and stringers and "freeboard". I want to be able to remove the floor (without cutting) if need be - in case maintenance of the exhaust hose is necessary.

smooth sailing...
-GN
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-29-2006 at 10:31pm
That location is a little different and you will want to use some glass on the topside to tie it to the freeboard to seal it up good.    You might be able to get some cheaper risen at wal-mart or west marine in castleton by hooters. Another option since you have a narrow section is to order starboard and then seal the gap between the floor and freeboard with 3-M 5200 but it cost a little more never realy figured what the cost of resin, wood and glass and roller vs the starboard route which doesn't have to be sealed since it's composite. It all depends on how long you want the repair to last or you have to do the rest of the floor. You could simply get pressure treated plywood screw it down and carpet over it and be done then come back later this winter and do it right or the whole floor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67ccmustang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-29-2006 at 10:06pm
HI Chris B -
THanks for your comments. It looks like the CPES is the way to go...it's relatively expensive so I don't want to buy any more than necessary.

I was actually talking about the two floor sections which are to either side of the engine box. But the same consideration for sealing will apply, obviously. The old floor is screwed to the stringers and wood floor supports - it comes up easily but requires removal of engine box as well as the side panels between the gunwale and the floor. The old floor boards are 3/8" thick- I think I found some plwood outside-board at Menards that should work.THe original floor has the old grey vinyl covering... i'll just put carpet over the new floor.

Unfortunately I let my other hobbies get in the way and did not work on it this winter. Now I have to hustle because we have the cottage rental on Lake James in July!!

regards,
GLenn N.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-29-2006 at 8:35am
typically the pannel you are talking about is removable. It is screwed to the stringers and about the width of the motor box and extend from the rear of the engine compartment to the gas tank.

To get access to this you souldn't have to cut anything ( but it maynot be the case for your yr boat ) You will have to remove the motor box, there's a thru bolt with accorn nuts on both ends of the hinges where it pivots remove them and leave to rest of the hinges attached to the floor and motorbox. Remove the back seat and rear acces pannel, vertical pannel the backrest lay's against and run your finger through the carpet along the top of the stringer and feel for the screw heads any where fron 2-4 screw per side and the whole panel should lift out.

You will want to seal the new pannel, you don't have to glass it put you do want to use CPES or simular product from west marine, the 2qt's is more than enought to cover the pannel and some. Do one side at a time and don't forget the edges.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67ccmustang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-29-2006 at 8:14am
Hello all,

Looks like there have not been any recent posts on the popular topic of floor replacement.. so I thought I'd start one!

I need to replace rear floor panels - the panels lie over the rubber exhaust hose under the floor which are attached to the output of the exhaust stacks. I don't want to glass these floors in, in case maintenance e.g. of the rubber hose is needed. I want to cut and treat the floors, seal them with h2o-proof caulk and hopefully no h2o will leak into the floatation foam!

I read about CPES for sealing plywood, but that stuff is pricey (about $50 for two-quarts I think, these floor pieces are going to be approx 2x6 feet, so total would be about 50 sq ft to seal top and bottom both sides).

Cannot come by any cheaper resin... Lowe's etc carry nothing like this. Anyone have any experience with any readily available "deck sealer" or other similar product? Polyurethane based products? What about the fiberglass "bondo' products readily available at auto parts stores (the reactant for these is I believe ... MEK? which as I understand, unlike epoxy products, the reactant of fiberglass resin can be be reduced to provide longer working time?).

Anyone ever use composite ("engineered plywood") products for floor, and where to get that stuff?

Thanks alot in advance to whoever answers!

Glenn N.
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