Winterizing PCM GT-40

quinner wrote: I am with Paul, way easier to do the suck-up method, with the a/f, takes a couple extra gallons but who cares at $2 each. I would also change the tranny fluid, again its about $6 worth of fluid, change mine every fall. Did anyone mention draining any water from the FCC? If you are unsure when the filter was last changed you may just want to replace it also so you know going forward what your intervals should be. BTW Aaron, were you the guy Brownie and I met at Trophy Lakes back in 2006 during spring break??

@Quinner, sorry I missed your question from last year. Yes I am one in the same. Hope you have been doing well.

I am with Paul, way easier to do the suck-up method, with the a/f, takes a couple extra gallons but who cares at $2 each. I would also change the tranny fluid, again its about $6 worth of fluid, change mine every fall. Did anyone mention draining any water from the FCC? If you are unsure when the filter was last changed you may just want to replace it also so you know going forward what your intervals should be.

BTW Aaron, were you the guy Brownie and I met at Trophy Lakes back in 2006 during spring break??

Closest I've got to winterizing is yesterday we actually closed the windshield .

Best time of year, yesterday we saw 5 boats all day, then my wife said "fishing boats don't count" so it was really only 2.

Paul,
You are forgetting the main passages are behind the circ pump into both sides of the block which is the main concern. I don't even worry about the exhaust manifolds.

Easiest way for me.

Paul my hose goes from the raw water pump over the engine to the v drive then returns back under the engine to the thermostat cover. I just disconnect them and use a 2' piece to pour the antifreeze in,maybe you could do something similar ? I really only do that because of the amount of water the hoses and drive hold would really dilute what I put in.

Aaron.
You've got all the drain plugs but don't forget the trans cooler.

Check the tans fluid for level, color and smell just like you would in a car. If it looks good without any milky color (water) and doesn't smell burnt, I'd wait on a fluid change. I'm not sure what hours the manual says but personally, I'll go about 200 before changing it. You need to suck it out. There are inexpensive hand pumps that work fine. Yes on the fluid but get one that says Dex/Merc. Absolutely no synthetic.

It's easier in a boat than a car. I'm pretty sure it's covered in the manual just like winterizing (they are in the reference section here too, have you looked?).

Copy and paste this in google:
"tranny fluid change site:correctcraftfan.com/forum"

Aaron,
If you what to do it the hard way, then go ahead. Drain and probe the hose for sediment. Then pour the antifreeze in one of the top hoses off the T stat. If you want to use 5 gals, that's also your choice but all I've ever put in any engine is 1 gal. All you want to do is get some in any low spots. Yes, the trans cooler needs draining. Remove the lower hose from it to the RWP. If it does have a drain plug, don't bother. The trans cooler shell if thin copper and they bent/warp real easily. Some anti seize on the drain plugs is a good idea. Many including myself have replaced them with drain cocks with removable stems so you can still probe the holes.

I fog via the carb while the engine is running. Start spraying, give it some gas, spray some more to choke the engine to a stop. Running the engine to suck, is complicated and wasteful of antifreeze. Plus, why run the engine after you fog?

EDIT: I missed it's a EFI. Fog via the plug holes.

Hello All,

It is that time of the year here in Ohio, time to put the boat away for the winter. I have winterized outboards before, but I have never done a ski boat before, let alone a boat with EFI, so I just want to make sure that I have all the of steps down and that I am not missing anything. I am doing this on an 2001 Nautique with the GT-40, no heater or hot water shower.
1) Add stabilizer to fuel
2) Warm the boat up to running temp, then drain and change oil and filter.
3) After oil has been changed, start the boat back up to circulate new oil through out the engine.
4) Shut boat down, then pull all drain plugs from motor. I think there are 5 total. Is that correct?
5) After water has been drained, replace all of the plugs and tighten to torque specs. Do you have to put some anti-seeze on the plugs when you are putting them back in?
6) After plugs have been put back in, I am going to hook up the 5 gallon bucket fake a lake set up that I have and then add 5 gallons of anti-freeze to the bucket, fire up the boat and let the anti-freeze be pulled into the motor. Once the anit-freeze starts to come out of the exhaust, shut the motor down.
7) Crack a beer and shed a tear because the season is over.

I do have a couple questions and wanted to get everyone's thoughts.
1) The Nautique Manual says to pull the spark plugs and add roughly a teaspoon of preservative oil to each cylinder. Do people do this or do they use fogging oil? I have heard that you are not suppose to fog EFI motors.
2) Above I mentioned, pulling the 5 drain plugs on the motor, but is there a drain plug for the tranny cooler or is there anything special I need to do with the tranny cooler?
3) Is there anything I am missing or do I have any steps out of order?

I really appreciate everyone's help and feedback.