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Anti-seize on spark plugs?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Anti-seize on spark plugs?
    Posted: November-28-2015 at 1:25pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2015 at 7:45pm
Originally posted by gtxragtop gtxragtop wrote:


Read this;
http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?doc_id=236529&dfpPParams=industry_auto,bid_272,aid_236529&dfpLayout=blog

It's easier to read with a good link!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gtxragtop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-25-2015 at 10:30pm
Never use antiseize on any cylinder heads be they aluminum or cast iron.
The plugs all have special factory coatings to prevent seizing. It is important
that the plugs are installed with the specified torque. Too often, they are installed too tight. There have been instances of plug misfiring with the use of antiseize.
There is a lot of bad information out there on this topic that is leftover from years gone by,

I never use antiseize on my GT40. Plugs come out easily
I never use antiseize on my 03 BMW 5 series with aluminum heads. Changed the plugs twice. now after 75K miles each. They come out with no issues.

Read this;
http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?doc_id=236529&dfpPParams=industry_auto,bid_272,aid_236529&dfpLayout=blog
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-15-2015 at 10:58pm
Originally posted by Jonny Quest Jonny Quest wrote:

Keep in mind that anti-seize is a lubricant. 15 foot pounds dry would equate to 10 foot pounds with anti-seize. It is very easy to over torque using anti-seize lubricant.

JQ

10 is not 20% less than 15.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-15-2015 at 10:41pm
Keep in mind that anti-seize is a lubricant. 15 foot pounds dry would equate to 10 foot pounds with anti-seize. It is very easy to over torque using anti-seize lubricant.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-15-2015 at 8:58pm
I had changed them this spring because I didn't know what,when or if with mine. Why didn't you change them when you fogged the engine Pete?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-15-2015 at 8:41pm
Galvanic corrosion requires an electrolyte--
water. I don't think you'll find those two elements within the thread interface of the plug and cylinder head threads. That being said, I've always used permeated metallic anti-seize and as stated earlier, some day you or your mechanic will be grateful

I'm looking forward to changing the plugs on my GT40
In the Spring even though it is running perfectly. I probably won't change them
Again for at least 200 hours. Unleaded fuel is just so kind to fouling as is a properly working fuel injection system. I will use anti seize.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2015 at 7:50pm
Originally posted by Mountain Man Mountain Man wrote:

"the only thing they have in common with gt40 iron heads is that they're all made by ford"
Well, it looks like they fit a common engine family 302 / 351. It looks like they share a common valve cover and gasket. It looks like the they share a common marine exhaust manifold. No relation.....................that is a reach.

They're all Windsor heads but that does not make them related to each other any more than they are related to the stock e7's... Which is to say not at all. No one who knows the first thing about ford heads is going to say "gt40" and mean anything other than the cast iron gt40 heads... Not the x,y or p's. That was my point.

There are some heads out there that are available in both cast iron and aluminum. Same design, only difference being the material. In these cases it is important to specify. The gt40 heads are not one of these cases.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2015 at 7:26pm
Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:

same reason you made the original comment knowing they were talking about iron heads.

Steve,
Sorry but I'm still confused. The discussion wasn't only on iron heads.
You said this in the 4th post:
Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:

Iv never used it on any of my aluminum, or iron heads.
motorcycles, boats cars etc. Never had an issue. However it is recommended to use. Cant hurt and is at least a way to bet even torque and prevents problems. Would use copper base. antisieze.   

Then Mark said this in the 6th post:
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

If you run Aluminum Heads anti seize is mandatory.

My recommendation to not use copper on aluminum was the 7th post.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mountain Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2015 at 6:07pm
"the only thing they have in common with gt40 iron heads is that they're all made by ford"
Well, it looks like they fit a common engine family 302 / 351. It looks like they share a common valve cover and gasket. It looks like the they share a common marine exhaust manifold. No relation.....................that is a reach.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2015 at 4:38pm
No gt40 heads are aluminum. Gt40x and gt40y heads are, but the only thing they have in common with gt40 iron heads is that they're all made by ford. Same goes with gt40 vs gt40p... No relation. It's best not to call anything a gt40 head besides a gt40. That's why the other types are commonly referred to as "p" or "x" heads.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mountain Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2015 at 4:27pm
The comment about GT-40 Heads and their metallic composition needs to be clarified. Some GT-40 Heads are aluminum. It's unlikely they were ever used in stock marine applications, but its quite possible that there are some in use given the number of people that performed DIY horsepower upgrades to their early marine 351's using salvaged automotive GT-40 heads.. Ford Racing sold them for a while and I believe they were stock on some 5.0L Mustangs. Ebay sell's a lot of them as used automotive parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2015 at 3:31pm
same reason you made the original comment knowing they were talking about iron heads.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2015 at 10:38am
Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:

I already knew the answer to this.   

Then why did you ask?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2015 at 10:30am
I already knew the answer to this. zinc is the closest galvanic number to aluminum.
however consider this,   takes moisture for galvanic corrosion and the waterproof grease,likely high temp silicone would tend to prevent moisture.   Doubt using it on aluminum heads would be an issue. especially in automotive applications.   

I have had 3 full time in the water boats that spent their whole life in salt water so i know enough about this issue.   Add some electricity and you have a party.   Shore power is a killer unless you have a galvanic isolator.

Lastly who knows what the alloy is on the head, who knows what the actual galvanic number is.   also consider this, marine grade aluminum has a high copper content in it already.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2015 at 6:57am
Steve,
I have more time this morning so I'd like to add to my comment. Opinions are mixed on using copper anti on aluminum. Some like me say never while others say they have never had a problem. I feel the ones who say they have never had a problem may just not have given the application of copper on aluminum time for galvanic corrosion to show up? I have personally seen aluminum fail due from "white rust". Galvanic corrosion is a known and proven fact and the reason there are procedures and products to prevent it. A dielectric union used on plumbing is a good example. Using non metallic bushings and washers to isolate mechanical fastenings is another. If you look at a material chart for galvanic corrosion, aluminum and copper are almost at opposite ends. The father apart materials are on the chart means the potential for the corrosion to exist is greater. Aluminum is the least nobel metal so it will go first. Specific anti seize compounds are made for aluminum. They are basically graphite particles in a grease carrier. Considering there are already other issues with plugs in aluminum heads I wouldn't want to take a chance with using a compound not specifically designed for aluminum that may aggravate the situation . Anti seize compounds are relatively cheap compared to an aluminum head.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Toertel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2015 at 6:48am
Originally posted by Morfoot Morfoot wrote:

'Miss Scarlett' has her plugs all lubed up when I get around to it.
Too much details Timbob! And we are talking about boats here not Kimbob 1,2,3,......

I always use it BTW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-05-2015 at 11:19pm
Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:

curious   why not use copper on aluminum heads?

Have you ever heard of galvanic corrosion?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-05-2015 at 10:34pm
curious   why not use copper on aluminum heads?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fabcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-04-2015 at 3:55pm
I use it on all my spark plugs
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-04-2015 at 2:46pm
Originally posted by Cumby Cumby wrote:

GT40 heads are not aluminum, correct?

Correct, they are not aluminum.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cumby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-04-2015 at 2:10pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:

Iv never used it on any of my aluminum, or iron heads.
motorcycles, boats cars etc. Never had an issue. However it is recommended to use. Cant hurt and is at least a way to bet even torque and prevents problems. Would use copper base. antisieze.   

NEVER USE COPPER BASED ANTI ON ALUMINUM HEADS!!!!


GT40 heads are not aluminum, correct?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald80SN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-03-2015 at 10:44pm
I always do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KellyfromVA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-03-2015 at 9:14pm
I use Permatex metallic anti-seize on my spark plug threads and other bolts and nuts. (other than head bolts). Someday you, or your mechanic will be glad you did.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-03-2015 at 8:55pm
Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:

Iv never used it on any of my aluminum, or iron heads.
motorcycles, boats cars etc. Never had an issue. However it is recommended to use. Cant hurt and is at least a way to bet even torque and prevents problems. Would use copper base. antisieze.   

NEVER USE COPPER BASED ANTI ON ALUMINUM HEADS!!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-03-2015 at 8:51pm
If you run Aluminum Heads anti seize is mandatory.
So far I have never coated plugs in Cast Iron heads.
Some plugs run coatings on them to help avoid rust. Champion claims they coat their threads. They also offer a Marine Spark Plug if you really want no rust.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-03-2015 at 8:39pm
Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:

Would use copper base. antisieze.   


+1 on this. 'Miss Scarlett' has her plugs all lubed up and Kermit will too when I get around to it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-03-2015 at 5:53pm
Iv never used it on any of my aluminum, or iron heads.
motorcycles, boats cars etc. Never had an issue. However it is recommended to use. Cant hurt and is at least a way to bet even torque and prevents problems. Would use copper base. antisieze.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-03-2015 at 5:27pm
I did this on my truck plugs, but that was steel-on-aluminum joint.   I would think that one application of anti-sieze on spark plugs would be enough for the lifetime of the head.   It won't burn off.    Just keep in mind that lubricated threads are supposed to be torqued less than dry threads.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-03-2015 at 4:57pm
I use it on my plugs as well as other items.


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