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351 Top End/reliability rebuild

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MrMcD View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 351 Top End/reliability rebuild
    Posted: February-14-2016 at 6:11pm
I had low compression on my 1978 Ski Nautique 351W at 900 hours. I pulled the heads and replaced them. I could have had them rebuilt but I found a great deal on a set so I used them. It made the 900 hour engine purr like brand new again. I ran it 600 more hours and then sold the boat to upgrade. Did not need to remove the engine to swap heads. It was pretty painless doing it in the boat. I would pull the heads, see where your problem is and decide what to do about it at that point. A good machine shop can fix your heads.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-02-2016 at 1:23pm
Look for traces of oil down the back of the heads to the bell housing like HW said. If you see that it probably isn't the rear main. If it isn't the rear main it would be way easier to leave the motor in it and plop on fresh heads.
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mbshaw88 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbshaw88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-02-2016 at 1:07pm
Appreciate the input guys

The transmission is 2 years old. I Just want to pull everything out together as an assembly to make it easier.

The boat ran great all summer, I just did the compression test as an end of the season check. I know I don't want to pull the engine again so might as well do it 100% and right the first time. But I'm terrified that I'm gonna get in to this thing and have a torn apart engine in mid July.

For now I think I'm just gonna have to take off the head and see what the issue is before I commit to a full tear-down.

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tryathlete View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2016 at 11:56pm
If you are going to pull the motor and transmission, I'd have to ask myself how much I'd not want to do that again. If the answer was--somewhere north of Never Again, and even like Chinese girls say "long time", I'd consider:

Rebuild transmission-- kits are cheap, replace oil pump and damper plate at the same time

Replace valve guides, rocker arms, stem seals and of course the usual minimum 3 angle valve job....

I'd r do all gaskets and seals....i mean everything. Gasket set and a few hours time....

Paint the whole engine,

Maybe do a thorough inspection on manifolds just because you can.

Id inspect each cylinder wall visible above BDC for any scuffing or obvious damage too.

All this stuff is pennies and an investment in uptime during the Summer.

Of course....the engine is out so repack the rudder and prop shaft.

Check all the cables--easy to replace while you're in the belly of the beast with nothing in the way.

Sorry if you think I'm making more work for you.
2008 MasterCraft 197TT
1996 Nautique Super Sport
1988 Waterlogged Supra Mariah
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SNobsessed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2016 at 2:39pm
I'll counter with:

I have been burned by leaving an old seal in place while repairing something.    It then started leaking after a while - did 2 repairs total!
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Hollywood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2016 at 2:36pm
Don't throw a rear main at it until you find the leak (more likely dripping off the valve covers)
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mbshaw88 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbshaw88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2016 at 2:30pm
At the end of the season I did a cold compression test on my Ford 351 (82 SN) and cylinders #3 & #4 were both reading around 80 psi, the rest were between 140-150. A couple drops of oil in the cylinders did nothing, so I'm assuming it's either valves or the head gasket based on the service manual.

I was going to pull the motor/trans assembly and work on it. Other than fixing the compression I'd like to replace/check anything else I can while it's out. There was usually a good bit of oil near the bilge after driving all day, so replace the main seal?

What do you guys recommend? Just start tearing it down and inspecting parts as I go?

This is basically what I'm looking to do:

Originally posted by davidg davidg wrote:

My goal was not to build a horsepower monster...just a good running, good sounding 351 in which the bilge didn't look like the aftermath of the Exxon Valdez after every use.     
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