New Automatic Bilge Pump or add a Float Switch?

Thanks for the info. I had no idea that there were installation guidelines. I can't remember which direction it is pointing. I made a bracket and mounted that to the ski pylon thru bolt if I remember correctly. If I ever take it back off or have further issues, I can mount it correctly.

8122pbrainard wrote: Siveck wrote: It was the Rule brand and yes, it was short cycling. However, that was almost ten years ago and the design could have been improved since then. Anthony, If you ever install another Rule float switch, they have some pretty specific install guidelines such as max mounting angles and it must face forward. They also have a covered model to reduce "wave action" in the bilge.

actually they want it to face aft.
I always thought the covered models are more so stuff doesn't get stuck under it or on top preventing it from operating.
In the past I have had to make wedges to mount to the base of the switch to modify the on-off positioning on the float to where i wanted it.

In the fish which i keep on mooring, I run a rule 1500 main pump on the rule super switch which i change out at the beginning of every season. The backup is a rule automatic 750 forwar the engine for emergency. I also have a second 1500 on standby ready to crimp on if needed in an emergency.
Both pumps are wired on a completely separate switch and circuit altogether. this way any failure with one will not effect the other.
A friend's boat almost sunk because his high water alarm shorted and blew the fuse. Well the bilge pumps were on the same circuit and high water alarm never sounded, pumps never activated. Luckily he noticed his economy was wayyyy down. popped the hatch and water was almost over the engine. some scary stuff.
the following weeekend I rewired my entire bilge pump circuit.

my bfn if memory serves correctly the bilge pump was wired so it would not run if the "ign" switch was off. unless my factory wiring is messed up. I have never really left it in the water always on a trailer so i never addressed that problem.
As long as your able to shut down all other electronics on the boat and still have the automatic switch fire the pump you should be good for quite a while with a fully charged deep cycle Group 27 in there.

Siveck wrote: I installed the switch years ago like the one pictured in an above post but it had buoyancy issues in choppy water..

Anthony,
Whos brand float switch did you use and what was the buoyancy issue in choppy water? Was the problem short cycling with the choppy water? I've used several of the Rule switches and they have plenty of hysteresis preventing the short cycle. It would be great to know the brand of switch you used so I and others can avoid the problem you encountered.

Alex47 wrote: Thanks for the input. I'm leaning toward the float switch option. I like the 3 position switch idea. Can you post a link to where I can find that switch?

Alex , sorry for the delay. SPTT switch is an ON/ON/ON switch that you can leave one of the ON positions disconnected. I leave the down position disconnected that way at a glance I know that all switches down are OFF. Ebay has at least one toggle type.
Carling #2GE54 ON/ON/ON

Should have been more descriptive I guess. while at it thought I might compare all the spaghetti under dash to an overall schematic if there is such a thing for my year/model. Never mind......

desertskier wrote: Schematic is on page 21 SPTT switch makes sense but what is the diode for? Current protection?

Original design was to run two pumps. No diode needed for single pump

Schematic is on page 21

SPTT switch makes sense but what is the diode for? Current protection?

So if your switch s on/off/on and you could have wired it just like boats with 2 separate switches? Are there not on/on/off switches available? Am I out to lunch?

^^agreed

If you need a schematic to troubleshoot a bilge pump, you may want to consider bringing it to a mechanic.

What do you need a schematic for? Pump power goes through float (switch) then dash (switch). Activate the dash switch and it'll pump when float raises. Some pumps have a direct on power wire too, like my 88. It has auto and manual switches at the dash. For boats with only 1 dash switch I'd wire it like above, auto mode only. It's been a while since I futzed with a bilge pump but am I over simplifying this?

My dash switch does not operate which I need to troubleshoot. Pump works fine, float works, and if I wanna manually activate it i just lift the float. Any wiring schematics on external float switch type assembly would be appreciated.

The auto pumps are pretty cool but you don't want to leave it more than a couple weeks or if the battery isn't questionable. They cycle no matter what where as a float switch will only run when there is water present. So long term storage would be better with the float switch.

I cannot speak about the newer boats but my 95 has the factory provided Water Witch system. Seems to work but I don't leave it in overnight

I'm planning on renting a boat slip for 1-2 months in the summer and keeping the boat in the water. What are your opinions on automatic bilge pumps and float switches? My existing pump is activated by a switch on the dash manually turning it on/off and works fine.

1) Should I just add a float switch to my existing pump? I've read several opinions/reviews about float switches getting stuck in the down position (thus not activating the pump when needed) or getting stuck in the up position (killing the battery and/or killing the pump). Does anyone have a recommendation for a decent reliable float switch?

OR

2) Should I buy a new automatic bilge pump? There are 2 variations; one that has a float switch and comes with the down falls described above, and one that is on a timer and senses for water by cycling every 3 minutes.

Opinions? Product recommendations?