Dead Boat

Hello All,

Just wanted to post an update. I replaced the 3 way switch last week and everything is working how it should be. Thanks for the help.

Ajskier wrote:    I actually didn't have to get the volt meter out. When my buddy and I were taking the plate off to get to the switch, I wiggled the wires and miraculously I had power at the dash and was able to enter my code and the boat turned over. However any slight movement of the switch the power kicked off again. So common sense would tell me that it is the switch that is bad, but thank you for your help. I will be sure to post an update once I have thrown the new switch at it and let you know if it is working.

Ok, the old wiggle the wires trick! I seem to remember that was a suggestion from Russian ground control up to one of their space craft back several years! So, how did you determine the switch was bad and it just isn't a bad connection or a bad crimp on connector? Better get that VOM out!!

Listen to these guys...I did with a trouble shooting issue, and they REALLY help you get to the root of the problem, which is sometimes, much cheaper in the long run, than just starting to throw time, money and parts at a problem.

Well, I have found a little time to dig into this issue. From what I have been able to determine it does seem like it is the 3 way switch that went bad. I have a new one on order and will post a follow up once I get it installed.

8122pbrainard wrote: Aaron, Duane's suggestion above is also mine. Actually getting a VOM and doing some testing before throwing parts at the problem was suggested to you before: 8122pbrainard wrote: Ajskier wrote: Gottaski, can you tell me how to confirm the style of switch it is. Actually Tom did, GottaSki wrote: Historically, standard kill switches kill the engine by closing when pulled,, grounding the ignition, and is a NO switch until activated. To confirm, you can get the VOM out to check if it's NO like Tom mentioned or NC. That would also confirm if the kill switch is good or bad. They are inexpensive and a fantastic diagnostic tool. BTW, we never heard back from you regarding the previous kill switch problem. Was the problem the kill switch or the low pressure pump? We always like to hear if we were able to help. Here's the thread

I am very sorry that I never posted a final follow up to my previous post. It ended up being my low pressure pump.

As for my current issue, even if the kill switch is bad, wouldn't it let the power to the key pads come on, i.e. I could honk the horn, run the blower, turn my nav lights on? None of the pads are working.

Aaron,
Duane's suggestion above is also mine. Actually getting a VOM and doing some testing before throwing parts at the problem was suggested to you before:

8122pbrainard wrote: Ajskier wrote: Gottaski, can you tell me how to confirm the style of switch it is. Actually Tom did, GottaSki wrote: Historically, standard kill switches kill the engine by closing when pulled,, grounding the ignition, and is a NO switch until activated. To confirm, you can get the VOM out to check if it's NO like Tom mentioned or NC. That would also confirm if the kill switch is good or bad.

They are inexpensive and a fantastic diagnostic tool.

BTW, we never heard back from you regarding the previous kill switch problem. Was the problem the kill switch or the low pressure pump? We always like to hear if we were able to help. Here's the thread

Hello all,

i am in need of some help. I went out skiing this morning and the boat started up fine and ran top notch. This afternoon I went to take my wife and son out to the beach. However, when we out the boat in, I went to enter the code and start it up, it was dead. I flipped the PEM three way switch back to all off, then flipped it back up to all on and tried to enter my code it did nothing again. I noticed that the green lights were not blinking when I tried to enter the code. I checked to see if the horn or blower would work and they did not as well.   I flipped the 3 way switch all the way down to bilge only and the light came on and I heard the pump kick on. Then tried to flip it back to full on again and then enter the code, still nothing. I have checked and cleaned my battery terminals, went and had the battery tested and it is good.

So after reading some of the post on here and Planet nautique. I have a few questions that I am hoping you can answer.

1) if the 3 way switch took a dump, would the bilge option still light and work?
2) if the key pad is bad, is there a way to test to see if it is getting the proper power or is there a good way to truly diagnose that it is the key pad? They are expensive and I don't want to replace it to just replace it.
3) I have read were some people have said it was the actual battery cables that have gone bad. Would bad cables allow the bilge pump to come on?
4) is there anything else that I should be checking? I just don't want to throw parts at the problem.

I really appreciate the help in advanced.

Thank you,

​​​​​​​AJ