1978 CC Interior Refurb Project & Questions

It's very secure I think it's not just held in by straps but I'll do some poking around to make sure. I agree it's sketchy. My mechanic is very reputable and has done some things with fuel and didn't mention it. I'll ask. If anything I would like to get a new tank that tank has had some problems when I got the boat they had a cork for the fuel cap and the owner said paper towels somehow got into the fuel tank, we've since fixed the problem. Never want to mess with fuel risks!

Greetings. The gas tank situation is MAJOR sketch. I'm working on that one. Just need to win the lotto. I think with steering wheel I want the smallest as possible, I'm a bigger guy so I feel like a fat guy in a little coat while driving I'll take a size reduction if possible. Thanks for comments on dash. I will look at high speed rotary buffer. Thanks that ACME prop was $350 worth every penny. The original prop actually fell off (long story) but it took 38 years for that to happen. I can't tell you how much the prop upgrade + electronic ignition and this awesome mechanic who's helped me with bigger stuff I was making worse :) -- I'll think about the steering wheel swap and let you know via PM. Any ideas on the underside of the boat? All the cracking? I really just want to buy more time but don't want some hack crap that's going to cause more problems down the line. Thanks again to all y'all.

Gas tank situation is a little sketchy.

Steering wheel doesn't look too bad, it is a later 80s piece but you'll be able to find a 70s wheel/hub/bezel if you're patient. Your boat would have used a 12" diameter wheel but I know I have a 13" version (same look and used on larger CCs of the era) with bezel available but I won't have time to dig it for a few weeks. Someone here would likely be interested in your current wheel too.

I think by 77 your dash might be gelcoat [else paint]. Either will benefit from a buff with our without wetsanding first. Same thing goes for the hull. Clean it then do a compound and polish. You'll be surprised how well it comes back. A cheap dual action polisher from autozone won't cut it though, you need a high speed rotary buffer (however you wont' be running it at very high speeds anyway).

Nice ACME prop!

First let me say thank you so much to everyone on this forum. I don't chime in much, I've received some amazing help from many of you and I can't thank you enough. I recently spent a lot of time on engine and the boat is running great. Electronic ignition kit changed my life with reliability for this boat. I had a really good mechanic do it for me and he's got the engine purring. This is a 1978 Correct Craft.

A few things I want to ask, forgive me if this is not organized and covers multiple topics. I am sorry if I blew the code of the CC fan forum but I enjoy catching flack so lay it on me.

BTW here's the boat, my photos now are b/c I took out the new seats and other stuff b/c I'm redoing some carpet, interior stuff, etc.

Here's the boat when it's not tore up :)


MY first question is what can I do to fix this dash? Boat bondo and sand, paint black? They sell some neat carbon fiber wraps and other things I've looked at b/c I can't afford a paint job right now. I also considered using the holes and making a bigger hole and put in a glove box? Any ideas on how I can clean this up? My long term plan is eventually to repaint and fix fiberglass stuff, etc. I even considered black trailer carpet as I live in TX many people put carpet on the dash, kinda tacky I get it :)



Steering wheel. Any ideas to clean it up? They are pricey, it might be fun to get a non correct craft steering wheel, I'm not as interested in pure 100% restoration but I've sunk $5k into this thing, when I got it, it was TRASHED.



Please feel free to laugh at this trailer. I am working on it :) - just spent $400 having wheel hub and alll that jazz fixed, I'm tempted to just buy a new trailer but anyway, these posts looks like crap. I considered using the bunk carpet black and wrap it, it could look good. Obviously poles are bent, I could maybe get a welder to make new ones. Any ideas on cheap padding or home made ways to maybe clean it up?



Here's my favorite. Hull cracking, chips, water stains, I think my boat sat in the water for a long time at one point. I have boat bondo, I understand maybe if full restore we have a lot of work in front of us. Any ideas on low cost ways to potentially fill in cracks, maybe even do a hull paint but not the top and sides as that's cosmetic.



I put in a new blower, and new hose. The vent on the exterior is okay and intact. The hose plugs into that broken up plastic connector that attaches to the exterior vent. Any ideas? I'd like to clean this up, it still does it's job but would be nice to have it all working with no leaks.



Lastly I thought I'd share this. I have repaired and rebuilt my seats. I suck at anything fabric, I am not a martha stewart. As I've built more seats and worked with interior stuff I have to say this was one of my better attempts to restore a side wall interior piece. This was rotted to death, luckily the fabric held up. I bought new wood, cleaned up old padding, found GM auto hood plastic things and drilled new holes, stapled this sucker up and it looks pretty damn good I must say. Remember I'm just a simple dude here, but thought maybe if anyone looking to do a cheap quick fix it's amazing what staple gun and a 12 pack can get ya. I found a good light wood at home depot, stapled two together b/c they dont have pre cut the size I needed since I put 8 of the plastic inserts to hold it it's money. The hardest part was I wanted to re-cycle the old holes, but trying to match is a pain so I merged both boards, clamped in position and drilled new holes. Obviously make sure and note front and back of the board with a pencil so when you go put it on it's not backwards. insert the plastic screw thingies into side (they grab the foam really good) and obviously paint water proof. Staple yer face off, it took me hours to remove all the old staples. use clamps to keep fabric tight and since u pre drilled screws in position with clamps it slide in perfectly.








Thanks everyone!
Dan M.
Austin, TX