Boats For Sale:
Winterizing question |
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Hollywood 
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Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13514 |
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 Topic: Winterizing questionPosted: September-28-2016 at 2:11pm |
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Every balance tube I've come across was mounted at least at 45 from horizontal, allowing for a natural drain.
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: September-28-2016 at 1:59pm |
Duane, Unless there's clogged tubing, there's no need to blow them out. I have never done it and have never had a problem. I have however seen where the tubing was plugged below the pulsation dampers and they froze and split. |
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TRBenj
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Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21184 |
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Posted: September-28-2016 at 1:16pm |
Because the pour in method is quicker and cheaper (wastes no antifreeze)? Any excuse to suck, I suppose! |
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Duane in Indy
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Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
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Posted: September-28-2016 at 12:56pm |
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OK now that we have winterized the engine assy, does anyone blow out the speedo-tube assy? Or is it supposed to be installed to be self draining?? Looks like the balance tube could rupture if it were to hold water
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Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
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quinner
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Joined: October-12-2005 Location: Unknown Status: Offline Points: 5828 |
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Posted: September-28-2016 at 12:41pm |
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LOL, I knew you girls would be all over the "method other then yours"
Proper drain is crucial regardless of pour or suck-up, so not sure the relevance there Timmy. My method has worked for almost 30 years, if it takes 5 mins longer who cares, suppose I will never get those 2 hrs back however, lmao |
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Hollywood
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Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13514 |
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Posted: September-28-2016 at 12:07pm |
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LOL, the suck up method isn't doing anything a pour in won't do.
I leave my plugs out but spray the drains with wd40 or silicone for corrosion protection. |
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TRBenj
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Posted: September-28-2016 at 12:04pm |
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PCM Fords are easy to fill via the RWP outlet hose (which connects to the stat housing), per the instructions in the PCM manual.
On all of my non-PCM's I fill via the large circ pump hose. FYI, if you drain the heater core/shower pump properly, no need to get antifreeze through them... never popped a heater core after blowing it out and then pouring A/F into the block. |
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quinner
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Posted: September-28-2016 at 12:00pm |
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When you say pour via the raw water pump hose, believe with the fords (maybe all) you need to pour in at the tstat??
After complete drain I have always done the suck-up method from just before the strainer, takes a couple additional gallons of a/f but IMO is easier particularly like in my case with heater and shower, ymmv. |
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TRBenj
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Posted: September-28-2016 at 11:59am |
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Yes, always reinstall the drain plugs- regardless of whether you drain only, drain/fill, or drain/fill/drain. Leaving the plugs out will allow the bosses to corrode and you may not have any threads left to reinstall the plugs next spring.
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Hollywood
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Posted: September-28-2016 at 11:45am |
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If you want the antifreeze to stay in the block put the block and u-tube plugs back in. If you are pouring 3+ gallons in and intend to fill the manifolds put those plugs back in too.
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Blamey
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Posted: September-28-2016 at 11:33am |
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So I had a quick questions on winterizing as I am about to do my first.
I plan to drain the block, manifolds, U-tube, water strainer and trans cooler. I will remove the RWP and then pour antifreeze via RWP hose . My question is after draining the block and Manifolds. Do I put the plugs back in then fill with antifreeze, leaving the plugs in for the winter, with the block fill of antifreeze? Simple question but it wasn't clear from all the posts I have read and just wanted to make sure. |
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96 Super Sport
Previously: 95 Sport Nautique, 1980 Ski Supreme |
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Duane in Indy wrote: