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1973 Correct Craft Skier

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    Posted: November-02-2016 at 9:23pm
I have a bucket just exactly like 63 Skiers.
But I never ever use anti-freeze, I just let the water out.

On the plugs:   Never monkey with the plastic pipe plugs in the water pump.
Loosen the rear cover plate on the pump (3-bolts + 1/2" wrench) This drains both the trans cooler and the water pump.

And I agree on the loosing of the hokey pet cocks,

Cool boat with great potential.   
Good luck and have fun.

Keep it....from sinkin'
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2016 at 1:01pm
I'll suck on a beer while you fiddle with your hose.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2016 at 12:50pm
Suck It Liver Lips
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2016 at 11:04am
You need a new watch quinner. Suck up is for suckers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2016 at 10:36am
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

What's the purpose of using anti freeze?

Bruce, hoping you aren't just kidding, so I'll answer from my mixed perspective. My '63 has always been winterized dry and drained, just used a syringe to put an ounce of antifreeze in a few spots that probably don't need it, Doubt I put 8 oz. total in. Never a problem.

Many moons later I am running jet boats with big block V8's and now my GT-40. I pump antifreeze through all of them, in the case of the jets have to use a drill pump, on the Nautique just suck it out of a pail. I don't know why I treat the boats differently. But to answer your question directly, I'm using it to eliminate any doubt that my boat can freeze with no chance of damage to block, exhaust, heater core, tranny cooler, etc. Do I think I could leave the GT-40 dry? Yes. I feel confident in knowing how to drain it, blow out what needs extra attention. But, I'm sticking with the antifreeze. Cheap and easy insurance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blamey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2016 at 10:31am
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

What's the purpose of using anti freeze?


Corrosion resistance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2016 at 10:28am
What's the purpose of using anti freeze?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2016 at 10:22am
Chris, in fairness I do use additional equipment with the suck method.



For me, it's just so simple and fast and thorough that I like it. Yes, I use 5 gallons which is more than just spot pouring. I do pull the raw water strainer after and empty and rinse so the plastic isn't sitting in antifreeze all winter.
'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2016 at 9:56am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Tim also mentioned the pour in method for adding RV antifreeze. I'm also a big proponent using the pour in. It's simple very effective and doesn't require the engine running. I don't really know how the pump through method has become popular since it is more complicated, takes more time, more antifreeze and equipment.


Holy Half Barrel Petey, what back yard hack mechanic are you listening to, lmao

Suck up will use more anti-freeze but more time and equipment, think not. Both are very effective and can be done with the same equipment in about the same amount of time, My personal preference of the suck up method is the fact you are essentially backfilling the entire cooling system, not just the block. Bottom line is either method is proven and will get the job done!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2016 at 5:54am
John,
Welcome to CCfan.

I'd like to add a comment about draining the engine for winterizing. Tim mentioned probing the drain holes to make sure there isn't any sediment that would plug the hole but your Palmer has radiator style drain cocks. These can't be probed since the valve stem isn't removable plus they are very restrictive. I highly recommend removing them and replacing them with ether brass pipe plugs or a better removable stem drain cock like these:



Many including myself use them and find them very useful. With the non removable stem drains, some have been fooled thinking there isn't any water but since the drain is plugged, there actually is remaining water. Then come spring time there are big surprises!!

Tim also mentioned the pour in method for adding RV antifreeze. I'm also a big proponent using the pour in. It's simple very effective and doesn't require the engine running. I don't really know how the pump through method has become popular since it is more complicated, takes more time, more antifreeze and equipment.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2016 at 12:21am
Thanks for sharing. Love it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-01-2016 at 10:52pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Ugh, don't suck in antifreeze.

How come?
'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-01-2016 at 8:38pm
Blue hull, cool!

Square windshield was optional as early as 71.

I see a bit of a mix of 72-73 hardware, lifting ring, pylon, etc. Hull number aligns with a late 72 or early 73 so let's go with the latter based on your paperwork. Cc can look up the build sheet to confirm (boats built later than June-July 72 would be a 73).

Is your battery box in the middle of the boat (as opposed to under the seat)? That may be a 73 change or a non-original mod... I'm not quite sure. I am fairly certain the seats aren't original, should have been glass buckets through '74. Bottom part of the frames look right.

In any case, welcome!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wwiison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-01-2016 at 8:04pm
TRBenj and others - you have my gratitude! I am sooooo delighted and not more excited than ever about the boat.

Previous owner's title had 1973 on it for those who asked. I don't know how else to tell the mfg year at this point.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wwiison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-01-2016 at 7:56pm
Because you asked for more pics...

Forgive me web site owner if I have overstepped the limit on pictures. :-)









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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orlando76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-01-2016 at 7:51pm
Wouldn't '73 have a round windshield?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-01-2016 at 7:42pm
Ugh, don't suck in antifreeze.

The first 5 drain points are pretty close. Make sure the block drain on either side is the one in the block, not the one in the casting plug. Make sure that you probe the drain holes to be sure they've drained fully and haven't clogged with sediment.

Then just take care of any low points in the hoses between the hull pick up and raw water pump.

Do NOT mess with the plug on the tranny cooler. If you removed it, gingerly reinstall it and never touch it again.

Do not mess with the trans cooler lines either. They contain transmission fluid, not water.

To add antifreeze, just pull the large (1.75" ID) hose off the thermostat housing and pour a few gallons of antifreeze in. This will fill the block from the bottom up.

The boat looks pretty good. I'd like to see more of the hull, interior and deck hardware. I see a few things confirming its somewhere in the '72-74 range, so it may very well be a '73. Hull ID number lines up as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-01-2016 at 6:31pm
I think #5 is the transmission cooler, but I'm a bit disoriented by the picture. If so, it needs to be drained. Many people remove a water hose to drain or blow it out since the fitting at the bottom can be difficult to deal with. I think you've got the rest. Instead of removing hoses and putting antifreeze in a few spots, you could suck 4-5 gallons through the entire cooling system.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wwiison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-01-2016 at 6:20pm
Hopefully I am not overdoing the photos.

Here are spots that I drained water from. I am of course concerned that I have missed some. In particular it looks like water goes down to the transmission, I don't see any drain there.

1) Water jackets - left and right side


2) On engine block under water jackets - left and right sides


3) Front left (when looking at engine)


4) Front right - got no water out, yet nut was wet and not oily


5) Didn't know what this was for but tried opening it - nothing happened


6) These two lines seem to go to the back, but I see no easy way to drain without removing a hose (hence the question up top):


Finally, can I assume that I need to remove each hose on top and use these to add RV anti-freeze?


Thank you so much for helping someone who doesn't know what they are doing. This is a great boat and I want to ensure it is taken care of right. First step is basic maintenance and then I'd like to fix it up (and keep it true to original).

Peace,
John

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wwiison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-01-2016 at 3:03pm
Gauges & switches:








Throttle - now very loose and needs to be secured
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-01-2016 at 2:54pm
Got any pictures of the pylon, rear deck hardware, dash and hull? What color is the hull?

That is (as the valve cover decals say), a Palmer (by Thermo-electron) 302.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-01-2016 at 2:52pm
Originally posted by wwiison wwiison wrote:





Thanks for your patience. I have been quit busy and took today off to catch up. Attached are some photos. What else would be helpful? Thank you so much so far! This is a great group!

Peace,
John
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[
IMG]uploads/17140/IMG_4575.JPG[/IMG]
IMG]uploads/17140/IMG_4576.JPG[/IMG]

Thanks for your patience. I have been quit busy and took today off to catch up. Attached are some photos. What else would be helpful? Thank you so much so far! This is a great group!

Peace,
John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2016 at 7:09am
Originally posted by 75 Tique 75 Tique wrote:


I will say it for Pete, please post some pictures of your skier and tell us that story how you ended up with the boat. .

Thanks Larry!

John,
I too would like to welcome you. Explore the site and you will find none other like it with anything you need or want to know about your CC. If you can't find what you are looking for, ask. The members have a vast knowledge base and are always willing to help.

Besides pictures that we love, a entry into the diaries would also be great.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2016 at 6:56am
Welcome John! Ditto on the pictures.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2016 at 2:20pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

In addition to block drains, don't forget about exh manifolds and the circ pump inlet (this is another low spot).


and disconnecting select hoses and blowing the water out of the transmission oil cooler.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2016 at 12:06pm
In addition to block drains, don't forget about exh manifolds and the circ pump inlet (this is another low spot).

'73 would (and should) have had a blower and bilge. There are switches for both on the dash, '73 would have even marked them. Never seen a 68+ boat that didnt have them, Larry... '66 may have been a different story.

Pics and more info would help us!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2016 at 12:05pm
Hi John, and welcome. Good advice from Larry above. You'll also want to do an oil and filter change using appropriate oil, and maybe a transmission oil change as well. The raw water pump impeller should be changed every few years, if you don't know the age of yours you should just replace it, very easy to do.

Beyond that, good luck with the boat and looking forward to seeing it. There are some site sponsors that you'll see on the home page that can get you any parts you need.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2016 at 11:42am
Welcome to CCF. All of your questions can be answered here, its a knowledgeable group. If you get more specific on your questions, folks can give you answers. I'll take a crack at a couple.

Owners manual. You don't mentions which engine you have. There are a number of manuals in the reference section (see blue banner at top of page) Maybe yours is there. If not, winterizing is pretty generic. and we can guide you through it. There are no less than a jillion threads in here about winterizing but the gist is:

run boat, spray fogger in carb till it quits
some folks take out all plugs and spray oil in each cylinder (probably not necessary)
drain water out of all drains on block - easy to find, just look closely for them
close drains, take hose off of top block somewhere near thermostat and pour a couple gallons of "environmentally friendly" antifreeze in.
maybe some stabil in the gas tank. Some say fill the gas tank up to minimize condensation build up in the tank

I will say it for Pete, please post some pictures of your skier and tell us that story how you ended up with the boat. Skiers are cool boats.


Repairs to instruments. some guys here are handy and can do it themselves. Others can provide you with some shops that can do it. Or you can hunt down original replacements.

Bilge pump and blower in a 73. Not sure when that started. My 76 has both. The sixties boats had neither. If it doesn't have a blower, highly recommend opening dog house prior to each start. If it doesn't have a bilge pump one is advised. If you leave the boat in the water, you would want to install one including the discharge tubing to a thru hull and an automatic float switch. If you don't leave it in the water, do what my dad did to our 66. Mount the pump in the bilge, and just hang the discharge tube over the side to bail it out.
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