'97 SN Oil Pan Drain Plug Welded

I have these on both my '85, '95 Nautique and my wife's Jeep. I prefer the one with the adjustable elbo.
They work great just stick a hose on and open the valve, when done close the valve and remove hose.
http://www.fumotousa.com/results.php?make=19&year=1995&model=13775&makeid=FORD&modelid=F-250+5.8L+V8

& get wifey a new microwave soon after!

If draining, warming it up is the key. Cold oil just won't flow.
With my boat I let it drain for days when I can. Usually drain it after bringing it home from the lake while it is still hot. Hot oil flows really well.
My 1987 Malibu with the Chevy 350 Engine was mounted so you could never pull the drain plug. Not welded but no room to remove it. Very poor design in my opinion. Good reason to come back to Nautique!   I still own a pump if needed so that is good I guess but I like to drain my oil. If I want a flush I will pour a quart of ATF down the top with the drain open. It will wash out the pan quickly. Let it drain another day and you know the pan is clean. If a minor amount remains inside it wont break down 5 quarts of good new oil..   I would bet all comes out but a spoonful. It does remove a lot of dirty oil sludge from the pan. Microwave a quart of Oil till it is hot and pour it down if you are concerned about the tranny fluid method.   Hot oil will flow and wash out the pan.

We can agree to disagree. I've always been of the opinion that sucking oil through the dip stick is a "backyard hack" as you are fond of saying. I can drain the oil through the drain hose painlessly by positioning my oil reservoir under the boat (resting on the pontoons of my HydroHoist boat lift). First I make sure that the engine is warm, then drain overnight.

No worries, everyone has different ways of achieving the same thing. BTW, I started changing oil in 1961. Never had an issue. I do use the pump out method for transmission fluid.

Wisenheimers..,,

If it's so cheap you could do every 15 hours.

I think you guys are misunderstanding him. I'll venture to guess when he says suck up method,he is referring to putting a hose down the dipstick and removing the oil. I myself connect the mity vac to the oil pan drain hose and vacuum out all the oil. Just how long are you guys leaving the oil in to have sludge problems anyway

DVskier wrote: . Not a fan of the suck up method as I feel that it doesn't allow the most contaminated oil from the pan. Gravity.

David,
My opinion is the opposite I have experienced where sludge will not drain out due to it plugging up the hole blocking the flow. Gravity IS the problem whereas with the suck up, you have a negative pressure assist. I suck out so much sludge using the vac method that I need to periodically scrape it out of the bottom of the reservoir. This opinion is from the hundreds of oil changes I've done through all the years.

Unbolt the transmission mounts and roll the whole thing forward. Should have clearance.

I owned a 97 SN. It came from the factory with NO oil drain hose. I was told by CC that there wasn't enough room in the bilge for the 90 degree adaptor with the limited room under the oil pan.

I had a marine mechanic (PCM certified) install a drain hose. This required lifting the engine and realignment check. I was then able to completely drain the oil using the hose. Not a fan of the suck up method as I feel that it doesn't allow the most contaminated oil from the pan. Gravity.

MechGatT, yes, currently the only way to drain the oil is through the dipstick.

8122pbrainard, I understand that the engine is raised for the installation and then lowered back down. Skidim's kit has a large swivel, whereas Nautiqueparts has a much smaller swivel, which is why I went with their kit. It looked as though Nautiqueparts kit could be installed without raising the engine.

I'll try to get a picture of the drain the next time I'm working on it.

Are you saying that the only way to get oil out of the engine is to suck it up the dipstick? That definitely doesn't sound factory.

I bought a remote oil drain kit for my '97 Ski Nautique with a GT-40 engine and the description of the kit lead me to believe that there were clearance issues with the '97 SN. When I got ready to install it, I realized that the drain plug (port side of pan) was welded up.

Was this a common feature on '97 Ski Nautiques from the factory? There is no way that this could have been done with the engine installed in the boat, and I have no knowledge that the engine has ever been removed since it left the factory.