NOT GETTING FULL POWER

Different Carb's have different jets and Power valve or springs and metering rods so expect different results unless they're all tuned to your engine. Tuning one is not difficult and you can come close at idle with the proper tools. Just learned this the hard way myself.

Whether or not you do it, or someone else, measure your engine vacuum at idle. Knowing Vacuum is more important than the Carb selection. After you get the Power Valve set correctly, then the best way is to try WOT and then try to pull a skiier (recruit a big boy...it's a test!). After you get past this then start checking for color indications on the plugs. Have you mentioned the plug color?

A "good" Holley man can do all this in a few minutes. A friend of mine who races will measure engine vacuum to set and also test when the Power Valve kicks in as well as tuning this with the vacuum advance and then the Secondaries. Your Carb Re-builder should be able to do this. If not, he's just another guy with a $2 bottle of carb cleaner and a set of gaskets.

Check your fuel pressure and make sure it is steady and does not change with rpm, or it changes very little.

Just wanted to let you know that my problem was the carb after all. Even though I had it rebuilt by San Diego Carburator and they refused to believe that it did not work, it was that after all. I made them give me another carb and know she is running like a top. Thank you for all of your help, I have learned a lot and appreciate the time that you took to help me out. If you are ever in S.D and want to go for a ski, I am your guy. Take care,

Sincerely,

Steven Martini

Man am I glad mine has breaker - point ignition! But it looks like something I'd like to work on. Good luck!

By, the way. PCM does not make this part anymore and they have replaced it with a standard electronic distrbuter system. I would like to know where I could find one of these

I spoke with Steve and he has the DIS

Also, this only happens under a load. When tranny is disconnected and sitting it revs fine.

a coil does not control the spark advance the module under the coil controls the spark advance. you may have to check your knock sensor because it could be causing the system to retard the timing. check your timing at 3600 rpm in the water in neutral, it should be 30 degrees for the 240 hp motor and 26 degrees for the pro boss motor. but also check your spark plugs to make sure they are not fouled out. also is the accelerator pump nozzel still a #25 because you could replace it with a #31 and cure the problem, also make sure the accelerator pump arm is adjusted properly.

Ok,

I read the entire owners manual yesterday and went out and spent about 3 hours with the boat. First problem I had was bad fuel. That solved the the issue with the idle and the skipping at top end. It however did not stop the issue with the flooding and backfiring and stalling when I drop the hammer as if I was going to pull somone out of the water. The timing is simply not advancing like it should. Since this is an Electronic Ignition I see no reason why the timing should be adjusted. I have never touched it therefore it should not be needed to be played with. I have however come to the conclusion that my coil pack is shot. That is why the timing is not advancing like it should, causing a slight backfire and a hesitiation. I wish sometimes this thing just had a good old distributer and some points. Now, where can I get one of these coil packs?

Let me know what you guys think of my theory.

Steve

the motor is accually a ford 351 converted by pcm using their protech ignition system. It is like gm's dis system on the 3800 series engine in cars but less sofisticated. yes you can check timing and adjust it but be careful it could cause other problems like burning a piston or a valve if you over advance the timing. I would recomend replacing the plug wires with factory replacements because if you use the wrong type it could cause rfi interferance and cause the system to go into limp mode. skidim should have the wires resonablly priced or any pcm dealer should have them.

Steve I'm in Rancho Bernardo. Email rloomis2@san.rr.com contact me I'll see if I can help

Steve-
Sounds like the Pro-Tec ignition. Same as on my '93 Sport. For a '93 PCM manual, try this link. It is a discussion I started on PlanetNautique awhile back when I was having problems on mine. They came through with a PCM manual that I was able to download. Also, I always used carb cleaner, not ether, to test for leaks.

http://www.planetnautique.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=1037

Scroll way down for the link to the download. It has a wealth of info. I don't think there is a change from '93 to '94 on the 302. You could also call Correct Craft and see if they can get you one if this isn't what you want. Hope this helps.

Gary

Just rotate the distributor.

Not sure what type of PCM Electronic Ignition you have, but I'm assuming what you are refering to is one without points.

If you'll loosen the bolt holding the distributor in place and rotate, you'll adjust the timing. Of course, you'll need to shoot the light on it to watch the adjustment.

Hope this helps you out.

I think 66polyhead said to check the timing and I agree.

When starting out, if you have the Holley, the engine goes through (struggles with) two stages.

First is running with the idle circuit in the carb and retarded timing...then you hit the gas and...your pumping gas through the accelerator pump, and jets as the advance mechanism kicks in. Lot of things going on that have to be right.

If you've re-built the carb and removed that mystery...check your timing and advance. If you still have the vacuum leak it will not allow your engine to advance properly....or the advance unit itself needs repair (pretty rare)

Wow, thanks for all of the help.
By the way I am out in San Diego in Mission Bay; Salt Water sucks let me tell you. I am from the Finger Lakes region of NY originally where the water is fresh! Much better.

Anyway, took her out last night after replacing the fuel pump, reinstalling the carb with some copper RTV. Initially I thought it was fixed, the idle was much better. When I started to give it to her, she began to back fire and would stall out. So, I began to think that since I have gone through the fuel that maybe it is an electrical issue like you suggested. Well I began to look at the plug wires from the spark plugs and they were fine. Then I traced them back to the electrical block (electronic ignition) and found that three out of the 8 were very badly corroded. It was very weird, 5 looked brand new and then three that were right next to each to other looked like they had been sitting in salt water for a couple of months. So, I scraped the rust with a screw driver and tested it out, I got my full speed this time but I still had hesitation and backfiring. But it was better. So I think this is the problem. I am going to replace the spark plug wires. Should I buy PCM factory or will any do from an auto parts store? Also, I have a question about my electronic ignition; I do not think it is factory because I cannot find anything in the service manual about it. All they have is info about non-electrical. I do not know anything about my electronic ignition. It says PCM on the black top where the distributor should be but there is no marking on the black block on the back of the engine where the plug wires run too? Where could I find out about this and would it be an idea to replace it? Any suggestions?

Steve