Stringer rebuild 1987 Ski Nautique 2001

I had to make similar adjustment when I rebuilt my Morse 2 control connected with new throttle and shift cables.

The boat looks great! You should really enjoy it.

Great way to end a weekend !

That drivers seat looks to be a factory seat being used in the current model year CC's

@DCIndustries

Nice Work! I've been fixing up my 87 for about 3 years now.

Working in a machine shop have you ever considered cutting the dash panels out of .090 aluminum? I had it cut on a cnc router to fit my stereo and converted rocker switches. Painted to match. Came out great. I can get you cad files to get ya started if your interested.

Good looking boat and clean work. Looks great.

Lee

Nothing urgent but do you think sometime you could take a picture looking straight down at your distributor with the cap and rotor removed so the weights and springs are clearly visible?

If you could add it to this thread or PM me, either would be fine

Thanks

Got her back on the lake this weekend. She ran smooth only one tiny oil leak on one of the valve cover gaskets. The rubber gaskets I got from Summit Racing for $39 were leaking. I went to Auto Zone got 2 cork gaskest for $16 and it sealed it right up. Ran it all day Saturday and Sunday no Issues. Re-set the speedometers with my GPS they were only about 2 MPH off. It felt tight and ran great.

The wake tower is a Big Air $550 off their web site. The top I made myself. I had some 1" steal tubing I bent it with my bender welded some bracing in it and made the front supports out of 1/2" tube. I put a 15 degree down slope in it. Painted it black ordered the Sunbrella fabric off Amazon along with the grommet kit. Had the wife sew it up and tied it into the frame with 550 cord. The whole thing cost me $200. It has saved many hours of not getting sun burned on the lake. It is the best thing I could have done to the boat if I am going to be pulling teenage kids all day. Love it best $200 I have eves spent.

Watauga,

Here we go I will go through all your questions and hope I answer the best I can. I am sure that the "experts" on this site will find fault in or a better way to do it. I am not a boat mechaninc but I am very good at what I do. I am a carpenter a machinist and a decent mechanic.

"It looks like you partially removed the primary stringers, and did not disturb the airbox. If that is true, how did you join the remaining existing stringers with the new?" I removed all the primary stringers up to the first bulkhead where they were solid after that. I joind them with biscuits, epoxy and fiberglassed the *************** out of them.

"It also appears that when you removed the primaries and secondairies that you left some of the existing stringer fiberglass lamination intact. Did you install the new primaries and secondaries against the remaining vertical fiberglass or did you actually remove it before bedding the new stringers to the hull?" We used the existing stringer fiberglass to set the new stringers to get the right width, hight and just for stability when setting the new ones. We then used epoxy to set them in place and we cut the old material out and fiberglass out and replaced it with new fiberglass.

We did not use any of the old fiberglass to bond to we just used it as a templet and a base set to work off of.

As stated I am sure there are other ways to do it and I am sure you will hear about it. This was my way hope this works and please ask if you have any more questions.

Lee,
I appreciate your hard work and long hours you invested in the old gal, you should be able to enjoy her many more days. Congratulations!

A couple of questions. It looks like you partially removed the primary stringers, and did not disturb the airbox. If that is true, how did you join the remaining existing stringers with the new? It also appears that when you removed the primaries and secondairies that you left some of the existing stringer fiberglass lamination intact. Did you install the new primaries and secondaries against the remaining vertical fiberglass or did you actually remove it before bedding the new stringers to the hull? What was you process? If you left some of the old fiberglass how did you achieve adhesion?

KENO wrote: Lee In your mind there's no problem here and I really don't see any sense in discussing this with someone who figures he's smarter than the people who make the regulations and the people who manufacture the stuff to meet those regs..

Ken
Correct, those USCG rules are just made up by idiots who really just want to make things difficult and aren't even thinking about safety!

Lee, you are forgetting an important aspect of a mechanical fuel pump. That it's capable of pumping way more fuel than is needed by the engine so, even with a seal or diaphragm problem, the carb is getting plenty of gas.

Lee
In your mind there's no problem here and I really don't see any sense in discussing this with someone who figures he's smarter than the people who make the regulations and the people who manufacture the stuff to meet those regs..

Yeah what he said ya goons!!

I have found that pumping too hard can break the diaphragm however

Reverse Gel and Blue, that is a rockin cool boat, nice work!!

lharley wrote: I did get one of the 1/4 inch K&N hose fiffings. I didnt like the way it looked and you would have had to run it through you filter. I dodn't want to do that so I went with the cleaner alternative and direxted it back into the fuel tank vent line. For me I wanted the clean look and I didn't want the fuel pump to dump fuel into my carb if I had a problem. I think what I have is a good sulution.

Your line running through the bilge then tapping into your hopefully USCG approved vent line isn't USCG approved if it's a piece of clear tubing.

The short little piece is OK with them since it is short, can't hold much fuel and it dumps into the carb so like Gary said it makes the engine run lousy or quit before you have bigger issues.


What's the Burger King slogan   "Have it your way"

Let's hope you're not char broiled one day because of it.