Well, I done did it... bent shaft

8122pbrainard wrote: rolleronariver wrote: After looking at it today with the prop off, it looks like the prop wasn't on their all the way. The nut was tight so assumed it was. I'm learning a lot with this boat. Proper prop installation Hopefully this MC dealer you speak highly of didn't install the prop! BTW, The nut really is not needed after it's used to seat a prop on it's taper. Read the thread I linked when you get a chance.

Lol, they didn't. I bought the boat in Texas and I live in northwest Arkansas. Thanks for the link. I would've just put it back on until I read that. Again, I'm learning a lot here!

8122pbrainard wrote: rolleronariver wrote: Well, it turns out that the shaft isn't bent according to our mastercraft dealership. I guess we'll see when I get the new prop on. The old prop is pretty messed up on the inside though. I'm going to send it off to see if it can be rebuilt and keep it for a spare. I am going to go down a pitch too to see if it handles weight a little better. I would've swore that shaft was bent though. I hope the know what they're doing. Do you know how the MC dealer checked the shaft? 8122pbrainard wrote: Chris, The best way to get the run out is to get the prop off, set the shaft in V blocks and use a dial indicator. Are you planning on using the shaft again?

I do not know how they checked it but they're one of the best shops in the state and I have known them for years so I plan on finding out. They did say that they measured it though. Also, if there is any vibration then they can re-quote it to the insurance company and change the shaft then. The insurance company has to use the boat shops recommendation in order to pay for damages.

After looking at it today with the prop off, it looks like the prop wasn't on their all the way. The nut was tight so assumed it was. I'm learning a lot with this boat.

Well, it turns out that the shaft isn't bent according to our mastercraft dealership. I guess we'll see when I get the new prop on. The old prop is pretty messed up on the inside though. I'm going to send it off to see if it can be rebuilt and keep it for a spare. I am going to go down a pitch too to see if it handles weight a little better. I would've swore that shaft was bent though. I hope the know what they're doing.

I currently have a 4 blade on my boat. I'm not sure what the pitch and size is though. I'll let you know, What's the performance difference between a 3 blade and a 4 blade?

8122pbrainard wrote: Chris, How did you measure the shaft for straightness? The "3 off", do you mean .003" ? The best way to get the run out is to get the prop off, set the shaft in V blocks and use a dial indicator. Measure in the middle and at the aft end of the prop taper. How did you get the shaft out? If it came out of the trans coupling easy, that's another concern. Since the prop key was sheared, I'd say the prop wasn't lapped to the shaft plus it needs to be checked by a prop shop. The .003" doesn't seem like much but that's at the center of the prop. At the O.D. of the prop, that .003 get's multiplied and it will cause vibration.

I wish it would've been .003. It was .3 though. I measured it by measuring the metal just being the threads at the end of the shaft. I took my mic tool and measure the distance from that piece of metal to a fixed spot on the bottom of the boat and then rotated the shaft to see the difference. That's how far it was off. I really just did it for my own info as I don't want to remove anything until the insurance adjuster gets the pics they need. I dropped it off this morning at the Master Craft dealer since we don't have a Nautique dealer currently worth speaking of. I will definitely get that prop looked at before I use it again.

As far as the prop on the 96. Will it bolt right up to my boat? If so, then yes, I"m interested.

Chris,
How did you measure the shaft for straightness? The "3 off", do you mean .003" ? The best way to get the run out is to get the prop off, set the shaft in V blocks and use a dial indicator. Measure in the middle and at the aft end of the prop taper. How did you get the shaft out? If it came out of the trans coupling easy, that's another concern. Since the prop key was sheared, I'd say the prop wasn't lapped to the shaft plus it needs to be checked by a prop shop. The .003" doesn't seem like much but that's at the center of the prop. At the O.D. of the prop, that .003 get's multiplied and it will cause vibration.

Removing the shaft from the coupler is not that hard of a job.   I loosened the coupling bolts and slid the shaft a little towards the rear. Grabbed a large nut from my collection and inserted it between the tranny and the shaft. The nut has to be smaller than the 1" shaft and it has to be centered so it can press on the shaft while not touching the coupling.
I seem to remember having to grab 4 longer bolts at this point that would reach throught the coupling bolts to the transmission . Then I tightened the 4 bolts evenly jumping from one to another while spinning the shaft and watching progress.
This method pressed the shaft out of the old coupling in about 15 minutes and did not damage anything.   I have used this technique 3 times on two boats. I have switched to an ARE shaft and like it but the old method worked and I never cut a shaft.
Hope this helps.
Mark

8122pbrainard wrote: Chris, Before you remove the strut and then have to deal with aligning ether a new or the old one, I suggest confirming it is bent. You state that you can still turn the shaft by hand pretty easy so that's a good indicator. Cut the old shaft aft of the trans coupling as suggested. Then see if the shaft wants to go starboard or port at the log. Also measure to the strut cutlass bore from the chines to see if it's centered.

Pete has some good advice here. Since you are going to cut the shaft, give yourself enough room to remove the packing nut, hose clamps and log hose. Then take a look at how the shaft sits inside the log. With no support up by the transmission, the shaft will naturally sag to the bottom of the log. One CCF member suggests getting a piece of wood that has a "V" cut in the top. You can then rest the shaft in the V cut and move the wood around until the shaft feels like it has found its "neutral" position. Then take a look and see how it lines up with the log.

Optimum would be to have the shaft centered in the log with no up / down or side / side pressure. That would be a good indicator that the shaft may be OK.

Remember to do a drive shaft to transmission alignment when putting the pieces back together. Plenty of threads here and Youtube videos explaining how to do this.

JQ

Chris,
Before you remove the strut and then have to deal with aligning ether a new or the old one, I suggest confirming it is bent. You state that you can still turn the shaft by hand pretty easy so that's a good indicator. Cut the old shaft aft of the trans coupling as suggested. Then see if the shaft wants to go starboard or port at the log. Also measure to the strut cutlass bore from the chines to see if it's centered.

Donald80SN wrote: Also, there is a 10% discount code for Skidim. I think it is Malibu. There is not one for CCFan since they are not a site sponsor. You may want to go over to www.malibucrew.com and do a quick search for Skidim discount code to save 10%. It will cover shipping at tax. To remove the shaft, you can also use the J-Bear method. I believe he used a Sawzall (Reciprocating Saw) to remove. I would remove the strut to inspect and possible send it to Delta Propeller for inspection and repair, they will also install a new cutlass bearing while they are at it. It can be hard to see it is tweaked while still on the boat in some cases. Also measure for the bolt holes and not the edge of the casting. I would also want to get that prop checked even though it appears undamaged. Donald

Great word. I looked up my deductible and I'm going to go ahead and put a new prop and possibly a new strutt on just to be safe.

Also, there is a 10% discount code for Skidim. I think it is Malibu. There is not one for CCFan since they are not a site sponsor. You may want to go over to www.malibucrew.com and do a quick search for Skidim discount code to save 10%. It will cover shipping at tax.

To remove the shaft, you can also use the J-Bear method. I believe he used a Sawzall (Reciprocating Saw) to remove.

I would remove the strut to inspect and possible send it to Delta Propeller for inspection and repair, they will also install a new cutlass bearing while they are at it. It can be hard to see it is tweaked while still on the boat in some cases. Also measure for the bolt holes and not the edge of the casting.

I would also want to get that prop checked even though it appears undamaged.

Donald

Call skidim tell them what you want they will know what shaft you need.

Beat me to it

Yes, I am planning to replace it. Does anyone know what the tip to tip measurement is. I don't want to remove the shaft until my insurance agent looks at it but I'd like to go ahead and order another shaft so we can get back on the water quickly.

We were enjoying the lake yesterday as we were camping out for Memorial Day weekend. All of the sudden we heard a loud thud and the RPM's a went up. I looked behind the boat as a tree was beginning to surface that had apparently been floating just under the water far enough not to see it. We limped the boat back to the boat launch and loaded it up. The prop looks ok but the shaft is clearly bent bright where the prop is. The strutt looks ok too and I can still turn it with my hand fairly easy so I don't think we knocked it out of alignment too bad. I will check that as soon as I get the new shaft on though.

My questions, first of all, what is the best way to get the old shaft off. I've read where it is hard to get the coupling off of a shaft that has been on the boat for a long time. Also, it's a 92 sport Nautique. Does anyone know what size shaft to replace it with? Also, what kind of shaft needs to go back on? Can I go with the A.R.E shaft on ski dim and be ok? I am going to claim this on insurance so they might pay to replace the prop too. I do wake board a lot and I would like to go with a prop that would do better with a lot of weight in the boat and not have as much top in. What would y'all recommend?