Hard to Start

Otto Throttle wrote: Where do I find it on the carb? What info do I need to take to the auto parts store! I know that is the problem!!! Thanks!!!!

They'll probably want to know

your mother's maiden name

the name of the street you grew up on

also the name of your first pet and of course your social security number and charge card info

Or you could take the heating element ( the black cap) with you and make sure you get one for a marine Holley

Chris,
Do watch the video when you get off work.

The "spring" isn't a true spring but rather a bimetallic spring meaning it's made with two materials that expand at a different rate. When power is applied at start up, the spring warms up and due to the different rates of expansion the spring twists and OPENS the choke.

Chris,
How did you determine the bimetallic spring is the problem? Did you watch the Holley video on adjustment?

You may need a new choke spring. They can wear out. Auto part store should have one.

The Choke not closing fully is the problem...I pushed it shut and it fired right up cold. What could be preventing it from closing fully when closed??

Thanks!

Rough and irritating is one of the reviews......

Glad to help keep your nose clean too JQ

What color toilet paper do you use? Red must be hard to find.

What brand tp is best for older equiptment? How much do I need to use ? I hear some like to keep it original and just use a hand,others use a corn cob. Any special additives? I always use the fan to disperse explosive gasses.

TRBenj wrote: If someone knows how to set the holley choke to spec and tells you it’s not worth bothering, that should tell you something, right Pete?

I'm confused, why did you say this?

TRBenj wrote: The "proper" way to adjust the choke is to set it to 1/16-1/8"open when closed/cold. That ensures that when the bimetallic spring starts to open it, it will have an immediate effect and will open fully..

I've always set then to almost closed and it works.

If someone knows how to set the holley choke to spec and tells you it’s not worth bothering, that should tell you something, right Pete?

I have seen improperly adjusted chokes cause plenty of problems.

I have never had a carbureted 351w that started cold without throttle input, including those whose chokes were set perfectly.

1-2 pumps of fuel and a slightly cracked throttle when cold, keep the rpm’s at 1200 for 30sec and you should be good to go. Bypassing the choke is one of the first things I do on a new boat or new carb.

Tim, Ken, Joe, Chris, JQ,
Thanks for stepping in and helping Chris with his hard start problem.

Sounds like you might be flooding it, with throttle wide open.

Try a partial pump. It really doesn't take much gas to get it to fire,

A strong spark is your friend here!

I think spiral covered a lot of your questions.

Everybody has a routine. Some pump forward with short strokes with the neutral button out, some leave it in or pump backward like spiral said

If you have to open the throttle fully to get it to start after a couple of pumps, I'd pump less, like once and try starting it. It might be getting too much gas and the extra air at the full throttle position clears things up and it starts

Not sure on this new fangled stuff, but my blower runs with the key in the off position.

Edit......... if you think it's not getting enough gas with your pumps, try 4 times, maybe that last pump to full throttle is giving it enough, but if you think it's too much gas with 2 or 3 pumps , then go down to one.

Hard to determine without being there and seeing it

Otto Throttle wrote: Do you think there is not enough voltage to close the choke for start?

Im confident Keno will get you squared away. But since im reading through this and no one specifically addressed it, I will just to clarify.

The choke closes withOUT voltage. So in a cold (non-electrified) state, the choke would be pretty much closing off the entire primary side. You can adjust how far it opens/closes when cold by doing the procedure Pete mentioned above. When electricity is applied, the coil inside the choke cap warms up causing the butterfly plate to open. Tim is suggesting to not even worry about the closing off of the primaries. By the time you turn on the ignition and run the blower for a few minutes as a pre-start procedure, the choke is already opening (negating a "cold" start type need) . So adjust the choke to just leave them open.

I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one that had to give it a little throttle after start to warm it up. One thing different, I make sure the neutral switch is pushed in to give the first two pumps full pumps, vs with the switch out i can only go a few degrees. Be sure to pull the switch back out before you start though. I've heard others pump in the reverse direction.

Good Luck!
Spiral

Thanks!

My Starting routine I have tried this 2 different ways, 1) 2 Pumps with the Accelerator Pump, and 2) 3 Pumps of the Accelerator Pump.

1) Pump the Accelerator, leave throttle at the 45 degree angle (forward)
2) Crank Engine

To get it started i usually have to open the throttle wide to get it to fore, then I reduce it for idle. once warm it accelerates normally and it will start with out moving the throttle outside of 90 degree (neutral).