Standard rotation engine to reverse rotation engin

I forgot to mention that, yes it does have a one piece seal in both engines, the old ones were good so I went ahead and reused them for now, as i wanted to do I quick rebuild to get it on the water. And I kept the same crank because it has low miles on both the crank and bearings rather than my old crank with 1700 hours on it.

If you happen to need a new seal after a few hours of running, here's a link to one at a reasonable price. Much cheaper than a PCM seal and used by some people here on CCF.

link

Didn't look but they probably have a RR front seal at the same place

I bought it all torn apart because he was going to redo the interior and paint it. So I never had it running until this spring as I did the interior and painting this winter. But yes I should have check when I bought it.

I had am successful attempt in turning a 1989 ford truck 351w into a reverse rotation engine for my boat.

The reason for this was because the previous owner did not winterize the motor correctly and cracked the block which I found out on the lake.

I firstly disassembled the boat engine except leaving the crank and pistons in (I will explain this later) with making sure to keep the lifters, pushrods, and rocker arms all in the correct order. I labeled a piece of cardboard and set them on to match. I did this because of stories of people who have had a lifter in the wrong spot on a cam and it wiping the top end out because they were broke in on a certain spot on the cam and then moved to a different spot so it had to re break in. But anyways, keep them in order to install the in the correct spot if you use the old cam and old lifters.

I then disassembled the truck engine while leaving the crank and pistons in. (this motor only has 20,000 on it so I did not have it machined). I then set both engines side by side and made sure each piston was in the correct spot at the right time when I cranked each engine over. After this, I took two rods off of each crank to make sure the oil holes were drilled the same direction. The boat engine was only drilled one way. the truck engine crank had oil holes going in two different direction so it could be ran in forward or reverse. This was good because I did not have to switch cranks. MAKE SURE THE OIL HOLES ARE DRILLED CORRECTLY.

I suppose you could use the old cranks and rods but I would rering it just to be safe.

I reassembled the truck block and crank with the boat engine reverse cam and lifters. I then used the rest of the boat engine parts including heads to put on this engine. ( I think the boat and truck engine had the same heads anyway).

The oil pump is the same on both engines as the gear on the distributor makes it spin the same way.

The engine was then complete and ran after a few issue. I made a post on here about it not throttling up. It was not the engine, It was crap in my fuel lines not letting the carb get fuel, but after this, It ran perfect.

To pull the engine out, I just unbolted the bell housing from the block and it slid right out. It went right back together too. I put the tranny in gear and spun the prop to line the splines on the flex plate up to the transmission.

I hope this is useful to someone else in the future. This is what I did, and something different may work for somebody else. Bu there wasn't a really clear write up anywhere on how to do this, so I made one of my experience.