occasional flickering check engine light |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: August-09-2018 at 10:06pm |
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dsums
Groupie Joined: November-26-2006 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 66 |
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Posting follow up to issues. Back on the water for a day, skiing and cruising. So far no flickering light and all seems normal on gauges.
Not to start into the oil debate questions for this vintage engine but the first couple of years I used Pennzoil 40W and switched to Rotella t 15W40 after reading posts regarding zttp content to minimize lifter wear. Thanks o all for your input and info |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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What weight oil do you use? My 40 left the factory with 70 lbs oil pressure and to this day with 20w-50 still is.
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dsums
Groupie Joined: November-26-2006 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 66 |
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Thanks for the information. Since I posted the question, I was looking at what I think are the switches in question based on reading other posts.
It appeared the switch on the top of the engine water pump was maybe just a touch loose and could be sending incorrect or intermittent info. I will be taking the boat back out on the coming weekend and will try disconnecting these leads if and when the light comes on again. I don't think I can recreate the trouble in the driveway but may try it anyway. I do know the oi pressure is typically at 40lbs when running at speed and it does decrease somewhat when you slow to idle. This combined with a defective switch could be the cause of the troubles. Time will tell. I will also try to download the engine manual and read through it. I do have a quality VOM I can use. |
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gt40KS
Gold Member Joined: August-05-2017 Location: Wichita Kansas Status: Offline Points: 946 |
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If the check engine light is something like the older Nautiques' dash warning light, it probably is connected to the temp and oil switches. By 2001 with all the other electronic stuff on the boat, it could have a few more added to the list. There are a few possibilities ranging from bad switches to ground issues to actual problems with the temp and/ or oil. Best scenario would be to download the GT40 Service Manual, get yourself a good VOM and start testing your temp and oil senders & switches to be sure they are good. If they test good you can continue with testing actual oil pressure and actual engine temp, using a good IR gun. Keep in mind that the dash gauges may not be precise enough to dismiss a problem just because the gauge reads somewhere within the 'norm'.
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JCCI
1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11061 |
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Here's some info from the service manual courtesy of Lewy 2001 showing the SLOW circuit.
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11061 |
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No experts around so I'll fill in
You already mentioned the only 2 things that will turn that light on One is low oil pressure with a setpoint of 5# decreasing The other is water temperature with a setpoint of 200 degrees F increasing There are switches that are separate from the sensors for oil pressure and water temperature so you may have normal readings on your oil pressure gauge and water temperature gauge and the light can still come on due to a bad switch. You can unhook the wire from the switches one at a time and see if your light stays off. Being unplugged will prevent the engine from going into SLOW mode from the unplugged switch. SLOW mode would limit you to about 2500-2700 rpm if for example you lost oil pressure or had high water temperature. Your light going out when you get to about 1000 rpm's , sounds like maybe your oil pressure switch is seeing 5 # intermittently at idle. Your gauge may read something totally different like say 20 or 40 # and a little speed brings the pressure up and turns the light off so I'd unhook that switch first and drive the boat around and see if the light comes on. If the light stays out and your gauge reads normally you probably have a bad switch If it still comes on, hook it back up and unhook the water temperature switch and drive it around to see if the light comes on. |
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dsums
Groupie Joined: November-26-2006 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 66 |
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I did a quick search and found a couple of posts but will start a new on more specific to my issue.
2001 GT40 in a 196 Engine has about 550 hours on it and has been flawless since I bough tit in 2006. Late last summer check engine light cam on after taking 3 or 4 skiers for runs. As soon as we brought it down to idle speed it flickered. Shut the boat off and go back out later. All good until after it was run for a while. All gauges normal except the volt meter was reading high. Put a new battery in this year and replaced the starter solenoid since the studs broke while I was removing cables to clean. Headed out to the lake. All good until end of 2nd day. After a cruise around the lake, maybe 40 - 50 mins when I pulled back the throttle the light flickered on again . If you get rpm up over 1000 it would go out but eventually it was on pretty solid. I have looked at posts about this and they referenced temp switch and oil pressure switch but in those cases someone had re and re'd the wiring or did not have a functioning temp gauge. Since there is not OBD port to use a code reader does anyone have any experience and or troubleshooting information they could share to narrow down what is causing the issue. boat seems to run fine and pulls strong until the light comes on. It did go in limo mode once last year when this issue started. Looking forward to hearing from the experts out there. |
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