Complete Stereo Install Guidance

Sure Paul anytime! FYI I told buddy with the 1998 if he wanted to sell that you were looking...

I saw the MMs slightly changed and I kinda prefer the older look and having the crossovers separate to just mount on the inside of the combing pads. Either way, if you are going the polk route and don't want to put at least 45 watts to each of them... save money and go with the DB series...

There is a lot more on audio over at the other site!

My focus was to build a stereo that sounds great, didn't invest heavily on it and takes up the least amount of space. My Sub is a 10" in a customs box that is mounted up under the bow on the hump (I do not have a heater). I would attach a picture but it is pretty well hidden (with amp) that it is hard to see; only the Kicker bass remote control knob and the inline fuse holder are visible mounted next to the perfect pass module.

For me, giving up the least amount of stowable gear space was high on the priority list.

The only thing I wish I had was a wired remote accessible from swim platform...

Andy
If/when I ever find a Sport your going to be drafted for the stereo install.

So now that it appears that the solenoid/ isolator/ relay debate is over ...
Otto, there are two basic trains of thought with marine audio (in boats like ours anyway)
1) Clean, clear sound even at a relative high volume but mainly focusing on those either within the boat or in very close proximity. Generally, this type of system will be great for anchoring/ floating purposes and will marginally do the job while under way at slower cruising speeds.
2) Clean but booming sound for everyone within shouting distance. Obviously this type of system will do very well for those wanting to easily hear the music while at the end of the tow rope and also for those that want a veritable concert atmosphere while anchoring.
While the second is appealing for a lot of folks it bears mentioning that the components for said system are almost always very pricey compared to the first. Further, the sound projection to those outside the boat will be very limited unless the projection speakers are mounted well above the gunwales, such as in pods on a wake tower.
So again, the first questions you should ask yourself are:
* Which scenario am I going to want to build for?   
AND
* How much do I want to spend overall on the system?

Depending on the specific answers to those two questions you are going to get 2 completely different product lines and price ranges.   

If you want quality loud Wet Sounds or JL , remember you get what you pay for...I have heard them all. We can piss off everyone at the sandbar with either of those.

Right were the red arrow is pointing

If you check over at www.planetnautique.com ( Forums/ Audio) you will find more ideas. Also, many of those guys will buy a new G Boat and they immediately remove the factory system and do upgrades. You can sometimes pick up their OEM systems for a low cost. This was the case more when Correct Craft installed Polk Audio, which is great, but now Nautique is installing JBL which is an upgrade. Some are pulling those for Wet Sounds and others. Jeff , site owner, with Planet Nautique gets a new boat each year and he immediately upgrades the OEM to Roswell Audio. If you hit him at the right time you may hit a jack pot.

Second battery is not needed unless you sit in a cove for multiple hours with the music very loud. Playing underway or sitting for shorter periods of time does not take the entire battery. I am running 1200 watts and three amps and have no battery issues with one battery. However, I do not sit in the same spot for more than one hour. Getting Class D Amps are more efficient and use less battery. However, they require more upfront dollars to acquire. Many have gotten great results from Kicker, or Polk systems and they are not as expensive as the other brands.

If you go with two batteries, do a site search for the following:

Randy from Ohio ( Site Name) Hellroaring Battery Isolation.

Several on CCFan have been very happy with this system and it automatically leaves you with enough juice to start the boat once the brass stripper pole is removed and it is time to leave the cove. A second battery in a 196 could have a negative effect on the ski wake if you are a serious competition skier or tuber.

rebel skier wrote: get one of these: isolator -- solenoid

That's a relay not a solenoid.

rebel skier wrote: Skip the battery switch. Get a solenoid

A solenoid?

We replaced ours with the kenwood kmrd772bt and added the kca-rc55mr dash remote to control it from the drivers seat and we absolutely love it. We have infinity speakers throughout the interior of the boat a 5 channel Pyle amp with a 12 inch marine pyle subwoofer and two 8 in boss tower speakers and it sounds pretty good. It's very clear sound even when your behind the boat boarding. The only thing I'm not super happy with is the pyle amp and sub. They're not bad but I'll probably be upgrading in the future to something a little better.