Transmission rebuild problems

I personally a$$umed new bolts were in order..then skidim sent me chevy bolts by mistake so I reused the old ones. No problem this season. So there's one data point.

If you had the work down at the local marina, I am certain of the answer; but thats probably more distressing than comforting.

Its not like they are torque-to-yield like some head bolts.

usually on a 3/8 bolt it is 37 to 42 ft lbs

Do I need to use new bolts for the damper?

Rather than use a torch I put the bearings in the freezer. Slid right in. Didn't like the idea of transmission fluid and ignited propane. Did the same with the forward clutch cylinder. I was asking about getting the drive gear to seat in the clutches.
I ended up making certain all the clutches were aligned, set the ring gear on top of the drive gear and gave it two good wacks with the mallet. Worked fine. I'm always nervous about using too much force.
Anyway, didn't get the oil pump on; ran out of parts cleaner. The pump has a couple of tiny grooves but I think it's fine. I'll replace the pump next time reverse goes out. And use those fiber backed reverse plates.
By the way, I put on a new damper plate. Anybody know the torque spec on the bolts?
Thanks for the help.
J

I would definitely put steel fiber plates in $18.56 each, check your damper for cracks or wear (look closely) if your boat has over 500 hours on it replace it. check the pump cavity for deep scratches or lips, if you catch a lip with your fingernail it;s bad

your probably putting 2 bronzes and 1 steel, what i use is fiber steel backed reverse plates. i use them in ski boat transmissions and race boat applications, impossible to snap in half, make sure you put in new revese return springs also, how is your pump? if you can feel anything with your fingernail it is bad.

Gottaski: #75 is the ring I was missing.

Thanks eric. Sounds like I was following the 10-18 instructions. What do you mean by steel hubbed reverse plates?
I've got two of These I'm going to put in between
The steel clutch plate and the Reverse clutch pressure plate.
The bronze ones aren't the right choice? Or are you talking about something else?

Eric?

I've got a Borg Warner 1:1; Model 10-17-003. With Bronze clutches.
I put the forward clutch pack back in the ring gear but I'm missing a snap ring. According to the repair manual in the reference section, there should be three. One in front of the forward clutch cylinder; one between the Belleville spring and the clutch pressure plate; and one between the rear pressure plate and the ring gear itself. The one you have to measure the groove and slip in the back of the ring gear. That's the one I'm missing.
I Don't remember taking that one out and I put everything in order and kept it that way and it's not there.
I measured the groove for the ring and it was less than 1.2 mm (I couldn't get that gauge in the gap while pressing down on the pack with my hand. The smallest range in the reference manual was 1.3-1.4 mm.
Does this mean I don't need that ring? Did they stop using it in the 10-17-003 Model. Did the last guy that rebuilt it leave it out?