1977 302 PCM Engine

I just ordered myself the acme 1210. Don't have prop yet, looking forward to it's arrival and seeing the increased performance.

Wondering if you still have that prop noise on deceleration? Any thoughts after using it for a year?

Just trying to adjust my expectations.

Thanks!

I felt better once I read on here that the ACME 1210 made that noise, it was quite different than what I am used to hearing.

I aimed the IR at the heads, Ill check again this evening at the temp sensor.

The ground should be good, no tape or putty on the threads. There was a plug in the hole when I painted the engine, so I know the threads are free of paint.

I may change the impeller again,, I primed the pump when I ran the engine on the hose, but thought maybe it got damaged while trying to get the engine to start for the first time.

I got my Ski Tique in the water this weekend for a very quick ride from the launch to the boat hoist before I got rained on. I didn’t get a ton of time to really try it out and run through some rpm and speed ranges.

I can say the difference in power and hole shot is amazing.

I kept an eye on the temp and oil pressure on my short drive home. Oil pressure was great but the temp was running high. Prior to the rebuild the engine ran about 160-165 deg. It ran at about 190 at idle then dropped to 180 at about 2000 rpm. The temp gage is new, so I swapped the old one and still saw the same temp.

I rebuilt the raw water pump with a new kit. The circulating pump is new from SkiDim, all hoses are new, hose clamps are tight, transcooler is clean and free of debris, 143 deg t-stat installed, manifolds and risers are about 5 years old. I am getting good water flow out of the exhaust, but noticing steam too.   I was able to hold my hand on the heads and manifolds after I ran it for about 20 minutes yesterday.

I also added an acme 1210 prop, which apparently makes a disturbing noise upon decel.

Is it possible that this is my new operating temp? Does a tighter more powerful engine run hotter?

I initially ran the engine with a garden hose and a Timmy T. Temps were the same according to an IR thermometer.

Below are a few videos of it running on the hose.

https://youtu.be/mvobHRo0tBo
https://youtu.be/LYHwutSN1t8

Very difficult to post from a phone on this site. Here below are the differences between a 302 and a 351 - just measure across the intake bolts . Approx 7 1/4 is a 302. 9 1/4 is a 351

https://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x278/chopperrescue/7B9991D7-3B12-407E-AEBD-D65EA22F747A_zpsiwrxxwnp.jpeg

Just purchased this 77 from a Neighbor of mine , boat has been sitting under shelter for last 7-years. Was hoping someone could help identify which engine I might have. Distributor is mounted about flush with intake .

Duane in Indy wrote: ... Sometimes you just have to please yourself and not others. Even if it means that we won't take home the prize for Most Original ...

My thoughts exactly

Great looking project Steve - you'll be on the water in no time

I poked the bear when I started the original color discussion. After some debate at home, we decided to go with something different. The gray and blue as the same shade as the stripes on the interior.

I am waiting for a valve cover spacer to show up so I can get the covers and the risers on. The roller rockers are a little too tall for the original valve covers. I was going to get new valve cover but I saw a Few threads on here about some of the tall covers interfering with the manifolds. Plus I had my covers powder coated to match the pulleys.

I didn’t keep it original, but I think it will look good.

Nice looking work, I like the toys in the background better!

TRBenj wrote: Get a few extras made while they’re tooled up... I can think of a few interested parties!

I asked for 12, I thought there may be some interest from others.

KENO wrote: There I was driving down the road and Abracadabra came on the radio which for some strange reason made me think of this thread    Can't help but wonder if you ever got a gear for the roller cam?

I may be a little late getting the boat in the water this year. I have some composite gears being made now. I managed to get 2 new cast iron gears for a 351, I sent those and my original 302 gear to a small gear shop in Chicago I used use for prototypes. They have reverse engineered the gear. The original plan was to have them cut them out of bronze. Fortunately, I found the company that makes the majority of the composite gears you see online for all automotive applications. They agreed to sell me the composite gear blanks (finishedand ready for teeth) for the 302, 0.467 ID.

The blanks should be shipping to the gear shop early next week. I think I can still get the boat in the water the first week of June if all goes well with the gears.

A little later than usual, however, we did get snow in Michigan this week, so I’m not missing much.

KENO wrote: It's the same as the 302 gear except the hole for the shaft is bigger, 0.531 inches for a 351W       0.467 inches for a 302

I heard of a guy once that bored out the smaller one to make it fit the bigger shaft and then even sleeved a big one to fit the smaller shaft.

SNobsessed wrote: Reading your story, It seems LSM needs to help you resolve this dilemma. They are the experts & should have alerted you to the difficulty in sourcing a NLA mating part. You can't be the only person to run into this brick wall.

LSM does 3D printing, so they can help with that, but they don’t print in bronze or composite. They are still looking into what they can do to help.

I may need a sample gear, we discussed scanning a new gear and the one off of my distributor and doing an overlay to see how much it wore. We also talked about a more accurate way to measure using a Faro Arm.

I’ll call DUI tomorrow to see if they have any information they would be willing to share regarding their gears.

Mille1sj wrote: I like the Idea of one long gear and cutting off pieces to machine into gears. I am working on getting a second gernzonthat I can have one nitrided then send the other out to be reverse engineered. I offered to buy the prints or cutting summaries from MSD, Mallory and pretty much anyone else that has made these gears. They claim they don’t have any of these records anymore.

The voice on the phone at DUI will tell you that they have 302 RR distributors complete with a gear and they're made of cast iron for flat tappet cams.

If you're looking for a gear to send out to be reverse engineered, I know "this guy" that has a new Mallory gear for a 351W that would probably lend it to you

It's the same as the 302 gear except the hole for the shaft is bigger,

0.531 inches for a 351W       0.467 inches for a 302

TRBenj wrote: I’d like to know whether the available 3d printing material(s) are suitable for the application... I have little doubt the gear could be reproduced reasonably accurately.

I just spoke to a local 3D printing source, they said they use MS1 tool steel that could be carborized, nitrided, heat treated, surface treated, welded, etc.