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Sam.morrison010 
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Joined: October-10-2018 Location: Boulder Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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 Topic: Shaft CouplingPosted: April-15-2019 at 12:22am |
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Hi everyone. While the coupling is indeed warped, I was able to get the strut and engine aligned (it took a bit longer to account for coupling warp going around with the feeler gage!) but once bolted up the coupling pulls right in flush and I can spin the coupling and shaft with one hand. Thanks for the input on the strut alignment! I ended up ordering in some 4200 and using it to bed in the strut.
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11195 |
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Posted: March-31-2019 at 6:35pm |
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Being on the cheap side, I've used Loctite PL marine in place of 3M 5200 and I'd have to say I'll probably never use the 5200 again.
They may be different materials but they seem to be about equally strong and the Loctite is quite a bit cheaper and lasts a lot longer in the tube when you don't use the whole tube at once. I've had to keep 5200 in the freezer to keep it from hardening in the tube, the Loctite hangs out on the workbench and gets used for all kinds of gluing/sealing jobs that are pretty much permanent. (Nothing's really permanent with the right tools  )The PL marine might be too strong for what you're doing |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: March-31-2019 at 4:59pm |
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Sam,
Loctite makes a fantastic product but I personally have not used the PL marine. Plenty of other PL's with great results. The Marine is a polyether product which I really don't know much about. I'd just go to a supplier like Jamestown and get some 4200 unless someone else can tell you about the PL marine. |
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Sam.morrison010
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Posted: March-31-2019 at 4:01pm |
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I have not bedded it in yet. Our local Home Depot didn’t have 4200 or 5200 but they had Loctite PL Marine. Has anyone used this before?
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gun-driver
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Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4127 |
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Posted: March-31-2019 at 2:23pm |
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Pete I use Sikaflex 1a.
It has just enough adhesion strength to do what we need it to do and yet can be removed with less work than the 4200. |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: March-31-2019 at 2:20pm |
Great product. Which Sika did you use? |
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gun-driver
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Posted: March-31-2019 at 2:10pm |
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I wouldn’t use 5200 if you ever want to take it off again without out removing the gel coat with it.
4200 is plenty if not a little over kill, I have mounted several using Sikaflex and that works very well. https://www.emisupply.com/catalog/sikaflex1a-91017-white-part-polyurethane-elastomeric-sealant-300ml-cartridge-p-17954.html?utm_source=googprod&utm_medium=product_search&utm_campaign=google-product-search-us-en&utm_term=SIKA-91017&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyoHlBRCNARIsAFjKJ6A0piZ_cdLz0hW1UlzXAnDrV18i4MpPFoXpP4ZpMKBkgDxD1EAH2mEaAgNsEALw_wcB#.XKDoMBopChA |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: March-31-2019 at 2:07pm |
4200 makes it easier to remove at a later date but you can get it off if 5200 is used too. Sam didn't mention if he's bedded the strut in yet? Sam? |
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gt40KS
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Joined: August-05-2017 Location: Wichita Kansas Status: Offline Points: 946 |
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Posted: March-31-2019 at 1:49pm |
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Pete, isn't the strut supposed to be set with 4200 ... or is it 5200?
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JCCI
1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: March-31-2019 at 1:00pm |
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Sam,
Sounds like you have some strut alignment to do. |
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Sam.morrison010
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Posted: March-31-2019 at 12:51pm |
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Hi Pete. I pulled the strut off to replace the cutlass so I have a bit of blank slate. The new cutlass bearing is pretty tight but I'm guessing that's because I don't have the strut where it needs to be yet. After reading through some of the other threads on this subject I'm going to be adding a shaft collar as well!
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: March-31-2019 at 12:02pm |
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Sam,
Keep in mind alignment starts at the strut. If the strut isn't aligned (bent or out of position) and you just move the engine, keep an eye on where the shaft is positioned in the log. The shaft should be close to center in the log. Also the shaft should turn freely without binding in the cutlass bearing. |
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Sam.morrison010
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Posted: March-31-2019 at 11:51am |
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Sounds good, I'll put a file on in this week and see what I can do. I haven't aligned it yet so as it sits in that picture it is out of alignment.
Good to know on the set screws in case I end up ordering a new one. I didn't measure while the coupling was off but based on the removal process I'm not too concerned. When reinstalling I had to pull it back off after a few minutes to adjust the key and it was already pretty well on there. Thanks guys! |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: March-31-2019 at 7:19am |
Joe, I thought the same when I first looked at the picture but if the feeler gauges tell you the alignment is good then it's an optical illusion. Sam, Are you within .003" or below to parallel with the coupling faces? Regarding you concern with the bent face, I'd be tempted to get a flat file on the coupling face and see if it's really bad. It's not the best method but with a couple strokes the face may clean up. The best method is to chuck the shaft with the coupling on it in a lathe and take a cut. That way besides getting any high spots it also ensures the coupling face runs true to the shaft. Getting back to the set screws, understand they are there as an added safety measure to retain the shaft incase the coupling and shaft become loose due to misalignment fretting. Did you happen to measure the coupling bore and shaft? You mentioned misalignment so it would be a concern. The fit should be at .000" to .0005" under. If you order a coupling from General Propeller, they bore/ream to match the shaft. |
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Sam.morrison010
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Posted: March-31-2019 at 2:09am |
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Definitely right on the alignment, I was starting the realignment process when I noticed what looked like the flange surface that wasn't flat. I watched Pete's video so I'm off to a good start there at least!
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gt40KS
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Posted: March-31-2019 at 12:50am |
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Well Sam at first glance ai don't exactly see a bent coupler. it looks more like you need to realign the shaft with the output coupler on the transmission. But I'm sure the resident expert on this (Pete) could confirm this or perhaps better diagnose the issue.
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JCCI
1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
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Sam.morrison010
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Posted: March-30-2019 at 10:32pm |
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Pete: I threw it in the oven at max temp and slid it on. Nice and easy!
Here's a picture of both where the flange looks bent and then one of the set screws. The bolts are all loosened up in this picture. All the couplings I see have the set screws in a different orientation at 90 degrees from each other instead of 180 like this one? The shaft currently has guide holes for the set screws but does it not matter if I get another one that doesn't? Thanks everyone.  
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: March-30-2019 at 8:42pm |
Here's a direct link to Skidims more expensive coupling. |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: March-30-2019 at 8:38pm |
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Sam,
Lots of couplings to choose from. You mentioned you needed a puller to remove the coupling which is typical. How did you get the coupling back on the prop shaft? It's a heat shrink interference fit. BTW, what's your concern with the set screws? |
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bfootr
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Joined: March-04-2019 Location: Benson, NC Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Posted: March-30-2019 at 7:47pm |
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I've only seen this one which has the set screws 90 degrees apart. Won't this work?
https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CPST4X1.0 |
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Sam.morrison010
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Posted: March-30-2019 at 7:25pm |
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Hi everyone! I re-installed my drive shaft coupling today and it looks like the flange is bent where it interfaces with the transmission. I'm having a hard time finding a new one online (1" shaft, 4 bolt) that has the set screws 180 degrees from each other and not 90. It's on a 73 Martinique. When I pulled it apart (to replace the cutlass and stuffing box) the alignment was out and I initially tried to use a hammer to get it off before I got smart and used a puller.
Thanks! Sam |
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gun-driver wrote: