Air Tique

From what i read the base 240hp motor was never a roller block. I will be skiing and tubing, maybe wakeboarding with the boat and general cruising. The lake i go to is extremely busy and has lots of wake boats so during the busy time I just park and we swim.

What is the purpose of the tiebar lifters? From what i have searched up a retrofit roller cam is big money, At that point i would probably be better finding a roller block and starting from there

It has been a while since i posted an update. There were quite a few weeks where i was busy with a 4 month old, but i was able to take the boat out last weekend. I had a friend driving so i could watch the secondaries. As i had previously thought, they were not opening. I tapped them open and the stumble went away and we picked up about 350-400 rpms. After i tapped them open they started working on their own, so there must have been something blocking the vacuum port. I had manually opened them before without the motor running so i know they weren't seized up.

I didnt check the gas before we headed out, so it was a shorter day. The boat was much better off the line, and the top end no longer had the stumble. Going to try to get out this weekend and make sure everything is still good.


Some more exciting news is that i found a pair of gt40p heads and they are relatively close. I should be picking those up friday after work. Then i will be searching for an intake. Probably go with the proven edelbrock performer.

Anyone have cam specs i should be looking for, or part numbers? I dont want something extremely aggressive, but dont want to stay conservative either. What are the opinions on roller rockers? Worth it to get them or just keep the stock rockers?

I am shooting for 300hp and am hoping that is realistic. I am at 5k feet, so i figure that would be about 350hp at sea level.

Plans for the winter:
-pull motor and that damn tray under it
-gt40p heads
-performer or other intake
-cam/lifters, maybe new pushrods
-roller rockers?
-DUI distributor
-check the bottom end and clean everything up

After that fire it up on the hose and make sure everything seems good. Then,
-rebuild/replace carb
-redo wiring
-replace heater
-if time/money allows tear up carpet and sea deck the floor

I did have to up the idle screw to get it to run stable. Set it to about 700 rpms in gear. I have been looking around for another 4160 so if my attempt at a rebuild fails horribly i have a backup.

TRBenj, i changed the angle of the bracket so it would actually pull to WOT. When it was parallel it would only pull to about 90-95%. The last little bit of twist of the primaries wouldnt happen.

Either way there are bigger problems with this motor that will be addressed this fall/winter. Looks like carb issues are getting bumped up to sooner rather than later.

Plan are to pull engine and clean it up
replace heads/intake/cam, hopefully the bottom end is good
DUI distributor
11A rudder/port
replace 1 fin
build/buy rear seats
redo dash wiring
replace/repair/remove heater and shower

Good call Ken

I am almost certain that gap on the return rod I have seen many times,

And has always been due to the idle stop having been turned way up after both idle fuel orifices have clogged in the primary metering block in order to get it it 'idle' again.

So the engine is idling off the mains, now by getting fuel through the xfer slots.



So for certain this thing is running at only a fraction as intended.

Also an engine won't gag and fall on it's face if the secondaries don't open, something else is amiss, fuel delivery starvation or secondary metering plate is clogged, making the whole mix go lean. That would be a sight.

Hey we're all for trying but that carb may not even deserve a kit. If the corrosion clogged the idle fuel orifices, it likely won't clear up, as they are not accessible like the mains

Good chance new carb is on the short horizon, you'll have to decide how much fustration you can tolerate attempting to make that one right.

Maybe. I cut that out right away and havent worried about it since. There is still that giant catch pan that is irritating when working on it. This winter when i pull the motor that will be coming out.

The packing should be fine

it compresses and flattens out

Don't complain about a job going easy

Brant,
The return spring is inside the solenoid.

No spring

The ink below has an exploded view of a Ford PMGR starter

It's an automotive one and the parts you'd be replacing for the gear issue aren't any different between marine and automotive

link

brantb wrote: According to holley's web site search i need a 703-47 this one Some of them look like they have rubber gaskets, this one shows cork. I know the pictures could be outdated, but wondering if someone has purchased one recently. Basically 46+shipping from holley or 50 (55-10%) from NP where i already will be ordering from. The NP one says it doesnt include the base gasket though

I'd get whichever one you're comfortable with, I can't imagine that Holley would be selling a kit with the old gaskets still.

The blue ones aren't rubber, but some kind of non stick gasket material.

According to holley's web site search i need a 703-47 this one

Some of them look like they have rubber gaskets, this one shows cork. I know the pictures could be outdated, but wondering if someone has purchased one recently.


Basically 46+shipping from holley or 50 (55-10%) from NP where i already will be ordering from. The NP one says it doesnt include the base gasket though

I bought the kit off SkiDim. Part # RNO120-1 Repair Kit for my Holley 4160 on Ford 351 with PCM Headers and Velvet Drive Transmission. Mine is a 1988 Sierra Supreme though.

Being way up high in Colorado, do you know if the boat is jetted for high altitude?

On it's best day your engine is down about 15% in power and you say it's not too healthy to begin with.

It could be that the secondaries aren't opening because the demand isn't there.

At roughly sea level the secondaries are probably right on the edge of opening at 3800 rpm or so on a good running engine.

A rebuild of the carburetor couldn't hurt

I don't think I remember seeing any timing numbers both at idle and at high RPM's so that you know it's advancing properly. This could be causing your problems if it's not advancing like it should.

Did you take the choke housing off so that you could remove the secondary diaphragm housing?

Assuming that you did, there should be a small cork gasket where the housing seals to the body of the carburetor.

Was that there and in good shape.

The plugs making a big difference may just be a band aid since the plugs are telling you a story about the rest of the engine usually indicating a problem with something like the fuel or ignition system (or rings or valve seals etc) instead of the plugs just going bad for no reason.at all.

Sounds good. Send me an email mdvalant at gmail   (sorry if I type it as it should be i'll get spammed)

I don't hang out on the site much so just want to be sure I don't miss your message.