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351W will not rev past 4000rpm - ideas?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zwoobah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 351W will not rev past 4000rpm - ideas?
    Posted: June-15-2019 at 2:09pm
Got the timing dialed in today - 10 at idle, 34 at 4000rpm. She starts much easier an now pulls to 45mph at 4900rpm. I checked my dash tach against my dwell tach and they are within 100rpm. Gonna run her this was for this season, plan for a new prop and maybe a new carb next summer. Thanks everyone for all the help. I’ve learned quite a bit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2019 at 1:15pm
You'll probably pay thru the nose if you find some A1-15 locally.

Here's a place with reasonable prices for 3/8 A1-15. I'm sure there are others with reasonable prices too.

link
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zwoobah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2019 at 12:45pm
Will be headed back up this weekend. Don't have the budget to replace the carb at the moment, but I do want to make it as safe as possible.

Are there any local retailers who carry A1-15 fuel line? I'm betting it's got automotive line now. Definitely has automotive line and spring clamps at the fuel filter between the pump and carb.

I'll also order J-tubes and retrofit those to this carb.

Thanks for watching out for my safety. This is all new stuff for me.

Tim - I'll plan to buy a new prop at some point in the future. The current 13x13 seems to have an inch or so of clearance between the hull and prop. I don't see any signs of hull damage and the prop is tarnished enough to be pretty old. I'll get a better picture this weekend,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2019 at 2:27pm
Jack started building Race Boats originally, he built family boats later.
He wanted all his designs to run fast. Sounds like you are all over the 12x15 prop theory.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2019 at 8:51am
An acme 1214 is 12.5x13 and runs very similar revs up top as a 12x14 Oj 3-blade or a federal 12x15. So yes those are the 3 worth trying on this small/light hull with 350ish ci. The acme will run the best of the 3... I own them all and that’s what I run on my 331ci 16’ Skier. We have a few other similar data points, including Alan’s hurricane, Reid’s 347ci Mustang, and Andy (leftfield’s) 351w Ski Tique.

I’ve always liked the look of the Keaton’s... but had assumed they were older (60’s vintage) based on the styling. Didn’t realize they were fast... but if they were light and rode bow high with shallow strut angles, that’ll do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2019 at 6:47am
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

Tim, are you thinking the large prop on the old boat is running too close to the hull?
Causing friction? .

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Greg,
Hull rash is caused by cavitation, When the prop blade tips run close to the hull, certain conditions form a negative (vacuum) condition. This vacuum causes the water to change state to a vapor form in tiny bubbles. (steam at a low temperature) This change of state creates tiny implosions which in turn create tiny vibrations, These vibrations in time break down the gel/glass surface. An analogy would be a tiny jack hammer chipping away eroding the hull. The same thing happens on pumps when the suction side is starved and the vacuum is formed eroding volutes and housings.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2019 at 4:45am
Thanks Tim,
In the 80's a boat builder in Sacramento released a boat called the Keaton Utility, made by Jack Keaton, Jack had a friend that was a competitive barefooter so Jack modified a hull he originally had out in the early to mid 60's also known as the Keaton Utility for barefooting and skiing, updated his interior and started selling it again in the 1980's.
It was an 18' boat, 350 Chevy powered, mid engine like our Nautiques.
I skied wth two guys that had them in the 80's.
Jack used less angle on the prop shaft and ran a 12 x 15 3 blade back then.
The 350 GM was rated 260 HP and those boats ran 55 MPH.
They had a flat hull and would get up on plane like the old speed boats.

My 78 Nautique was about 1-2 mph short of them when we raced.
I think my 351W was 270 to 300 HP but it was not enough against these boats..
Since a 260 HP Chevy was able to spin that 12x15 prop and go so fast I am wondering how it would do on this Old Hull in this post.
In the old days, 60's and 70's Jack would sell you his boat and it was up to the buyer to find and install an engine. Because of this there are Keaton Utility's running around with 440 Chryslers, 327 Chevys, 383's, 390 Fords. 430 Mercs, Flat bottom so they ran fast but rode rough and did not hold well to hard skiers in a course, good barefoot boats though.
Jack ran a first class shop. He also built an 18' Jet that won Powerboat magazines Boat of the Year award in the late 70's when Jet boats were Hot.
Since his manufacturing was in Sacramento there are many of his boats still out on our waters today. That is a lot of words to ask your thoughts on trying a 12x15 prop.
http://keatonboat.com/images/Tournament_pictures/IMGP0678.JPG
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2019 at 12:11am
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

Tim, are you thinking the large prop on the old boat is running too close to the hull?
Causing friction? Just curious, I don't know the old hull at al I was thinking it was similar to the Ski Tique hull, 16" version of the Nautique.

The 13” diameter is unlikely to cause major performance issues but will definitely harm the hull if used long term (months). Since it appears to be performing like garbage anyways, all the more reason to retire it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 11:59pm
Originally posted by zwoobah zwoobah wrote:

Thanks Ken! I'll check that the screen on the choke air intake is in place, and if it's there I'll remove the hose and cap the other port.


One of those little voices in my head keeps saying that you're gonna justify in your mind why it's OK to use an automotive carburetor

It may have worked for a number of years, but it's not the safest way to go.

You should also check the fuel line from the pump to the carburetor to see if it has a USCG A1-15 rating or if it's regular automotive line

Here's a link to an old thread with lots of "discussion" about fuel lines .

Tank to pump should be USCG rated stuff too.

link

Just tryin' to keep ya safe and out of the burn ward.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 11:08pm
Tim, are you thinking the large prop on the old boat is running too close to the hull?
Causing friction? Just curious, I don't know the old hull at al I was thinking it was similar to the Ski Tique hull, 16" version of the Nautique.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 9:14pm
13” diameter prop is too big for that hull. That and if it’s turning 4700rpm and only producing 43mph would mean it’s time to put it on the mantle. Acme 1214 would match the powertrain and hull much better.

Not all apps are created equal. Navionics.

Once you have at least 2 out of 3 known good pieces/measurements (known good prop, accurate tach and accurate speed) then we will actually be able to tell how well your boat is running. I suspect you are 0/3 at the moment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 8:35pm
I’m betting the oil on the distributor advance mechanism was your fix. It was rusty and now it’s free to give you the advance you were missing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zwoobah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 6:25pm
I don't have a speedometer on this boat, so I measured my speed with a GPS app on my phone.

Also verified that my hour meter is unreliable - which makes sense, given that it shows 27 hours on a 1968 boat. Likely going to replace it with a 2" GPS speedometer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 6:22pm
Glad you are getting it running better.
Did you verify your speedometers with a GPS???

Maybe you were going faster. As I recall, and it has been a long time the 13x13 prop gave speed readings that are very close to actual RPM, so 36 mph = 3600 RPM. I would think you are close to 47 mph if your prop is good.   Still room to improve but you are much better than the original 4,000 RPM.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zwoobah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 6:00pm
Thanks Ken! I'll check that the screen on the choke air intake is in place, and if it's there I'll remove the hose and cap the other port.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 3:47pm
This picture was in the thread about checking secondary operation with a zip tie but it also shows the air inbleed fitting to the choke right in front of the secondary lever with the zip tie.

It's the brass tubing fitting and there's a little screen in there.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 3:40pm
Originally posted by zwoobah zwoobah wrote:

Any idea what the hose is for on the carb? It's just hanging down to the side currently


The fitting taps into the airspace above the secondary throttle plates, the hose hooks to that and the other end hooks to the little air inbleed for the electric choke which is under a vacuum.

On a car it provides clean air from inside the air cleaner to the electric choke for proper operation.

On a marine 4160 the little air inbleed has a small brass screen, since there's not a lot of dust and dirt out on the water.

In the link below, look at page 4 figure 2A and also page 9 figure 8 and you can see it's routing

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zwoobah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 1:16pm
Any idea what the hose is for on the carb? It's just hanging down to the side currently
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 12:59pm
Originally posted by zwoobah zwoobah wrote:


Number on the carb air horn comes up as a 600cfm Holley 4160 but I can't find any data on whether it's auto or marine. It was rebuilt last summer so I don't want to replace it.

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:



the carburetor is a 600 cfm Holley Street Warrior carburetor.

And you probably know there are no streets on the water

It'll work OK, it just doesn't have marine leakage protection (and certification) which could lead to a fire/explosion


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 12:58pm
Click on the link and you won't find anything calling it a marine carburetor

link

Somebody probably bought it because it was a lot cheaper than the marine one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zwoobah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 12:55pm
Yes, I was hoping for 50mph. I did have three people in the boat and a full tank, but still seems slow. The bulb in my timing light crapped out after two flashes so I couldn't do anything with timing. Will bring up another light next weekend.

Existing prop is a 13x13 Michigan Wheel Dyna Jet. What would you suggest for a prop?

Number on the carb air horn comes up as a 600cfm Holley 4160 but I can't find any data on whether it's auto or marine. It was rebuilt last summer so I don't want to replace it. Could that mystery hose be the fuel pump overflow hose?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 12:38pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

43 with a 351w in that hull? You’re missing at least 5mph... I’d start with the prop but don’t see any mention of timing numbers? Also check if that carb is marine.


What he said

Or I could tell you that the carburetor is a 600 cfm Holley Street Warrior carburetor.

And you probably know there are no streets on the water

It'll work OK, it just doesn't have marine leakage protection (and certification) which could lead to a fire/explosion
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 12:16pm
43 with a 351w in that hull? You’re missing at least 5mph... I’d start with the prop but don’t see any mention of timing numbers? Also check if that carb is marine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zwoobah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 11:58am
Did some tinkering this weekend.

Changed the fuel filter, checked and oiled the advance mechanism, checked the secondaries.

Good news - the boat now revs to 4,700rpm smoothly. This equates to 43mph. The secondaries open about 70%. I have the Pertronix ignition module - seems to be working fine.

Bad news - I have no idea what fixed it.

My timing light crapped out after two flashes so I wasn't able to check or adjust timing. Will get a new one and try again next weekend.

Prop is a 13x13 and the carb numbers are in the photo below.

There's a vacuum line coming off the carb that isn't attached to anything. Where is this supposed to go?









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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davidg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2019 at 1:07am
Interesting thread. My '87 Martinique w/ PCM 351 W has this exact problem, except mine stumbles a bit on initial acceleration, and not at 4000 rpm. I need to check my acceleration pump.

When I give it full throttle, it tops out at 4000 rpm with Acme 542 prop. I "assumed" my secondaries were opening, but, this thread is making me rethink that. The engine runs perfectly other than this. As Mr. McD says, these engines will run perfectly on 2 bbls, and even accelerates real good for a bigger boat.

I really don't get on it that often to even need the four bbl. I'm running at around 2500-3000 rpm most of the time just skiing or cruising. But, if it's broke, I still want to fix it.

What have you guys found that are the top reason or two the secondaries don't open?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2019 at 10:04pm
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:


I did not have GPS in 1982 and who knows if the tach or speedo was accurate
.


This says quite a bit

Not doubting that it ran good, the numbers just don't work out

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2019 at 5:38pm
Keno, my 78 did run great, the heads bumped compression quite a bit with small chambers but they were professionally ported with big valves, came off a friends race motor, it needed premium fuel but it ran great. Pinged like crazy on regular.
I did not have GPS in 1982 and who knows if the tach or speedo was accurate
The owner of West Coast Correct Craft ran a Nautique with a 454 back then and I walked him more than once crossing Folsom Lake in the evenings after work.
He tried more than once and never outran me. His was a 1981, I think it had the same exact hull as my 78.
We would ski or barefoot till dark and then make the fast dash accross the lake to the dock.
His was stronger pulling barefooters although my 351 easily pulled my buddy who liked to one foot at 43 mph. His new at the time 1982 351 powered 351W stock could not do that.
The older hull rides like a brick but they are lighter and faster than the newer hulls a 13x13 ran the RPM too high for me so I used the 13x14 and liked it a lot. We ran at 500-1500 elevation most times.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2019 at 5:03pm
I thought I'd stay out of the engine cover discussion and ask if you know how to check that the secondaries will open by hand when the engine is OFF?

I'd tell you how but you may already know. And besides 2 more people would give you the same answer right after I did that.

I'll save my breath for now.

And no need to ask anything like "why won't my engine hit 5300 rpm" like MrMcD's obviously super powerful 351 that was turning a 13X14 prop at that speed and going 50 to almost 55 mph. That tells me he had some terrible prop efficiency with 22% slip at best..

The run of the mill 240 HP 351w from PCM, Indmar etc has a max of 4400 rpm but a little higher isn'r gonna hurt it. Your engine will be happy at 4500 rpm.if it's stock

Maybe his tach read high

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2019 at 2:52pm
Originally posted by zwoobah zwoobah wrote:

I’m not crazy about the idea of going down the lake at 35mph with my engine cover open.

To each his own, standard practice for troubleshooting a problem like that here. Have done it many, many times. One quick ride gets you pointed in the right direction.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2019 at 2:31pm
My 78 was a Ski Nautique and the cover may be a little smaller than your cover.
I did run it several times with the cover up as I worked out problems with a Holley 4bbl.   Finally got it dialed in with the 4bbl opening on time as needed and never had to do it again.   My lake is only 10 minutes away so taking it out for a test run was not a big deal.
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