Gas shooting out of carburator

Randy, did you try the CLR?

JoeinNY wrote: now it is possible that a specific rough surface finish could trip a laminar boundry layer in certain conditions and make it easier for a propellor to spin up and give you a better hole shot

So this is like the waxxed hull game?

it propably doesn't make much difference but it would do the opposite and perform a little better and cut thru the water easier.

Hey Eric-

My boat is shiny. The engine runs. I use it 3-4 days a week.

As long as the prop does its job im not worried.

Besides, all of the mermaids are attracted to the polished sky ski.

Tim

Polishing the underwater gear?

You guys have wayyy too much time on your hands. If you use the boat that stuff will just wear off. If I want to shine my prop up I just park it on the sandbar for a day and have a few beers. When it gets back to the lift it is shiny, the next day it is dull again. Put your time into pulling your kids skiing instead of shining the prop that nobody can see in the water!

Tim

ps-

Yuor prop looks like they just acid washed the hull and you have some corrosion from it. Dont wast your time pulling everything apart.

Eric- Thanks, I may take you up on that. could I take the rudder off and get it done too? I am going to try cleaning it up myself first. I would rather not take the prop/rudder off yet. I may want to put it in the water.

Stang72- last night was the first time I have taken it out since buying it. It was as smooth as it has always been, no vibration. I was worried I would have some because of a few nicks in the prop.

79nautique- yes that is fishing line around the cotter pin.

stang72- I know, the bottom looks terrible, I just bought it and, well, it's a little dirty...

What is the best way to clean the prop/rudder, It is mostly corrosion. probably from the acid bottom cleaner.

RH prop, check that cotter pin it duesn't look good in this picture or maybe its something else like fish line or something.

only bad thing about that motor is the crappy motorola designed ignition system but it's easy to swap that out for a distributor and have a reliable ign.

Thats what I am thinking, anyone know if you can used the same engine/trans mounts, shaft coupling, etc.. with a 1.23:1 as a borg warner 1:1. I need to build a 351 for the 83 this winter so the mustang can have the 302 back and I am still torn on the std rot vs rev rot because of a few parts that are not available for the rev rot....

79, they will fit in place of a borg warner, same mount pattern, same coupling, same length, they have a 15 spline input instead of the 26 spline. they are the bayliner of transmissions. over the years i have switched them out for a borg warner.
warning: dont take your borg warner out and put a pcm in place of it lol   eric

were basing this all on circumstantual evidence, im 50/50 on this one. im basing this on about 30 transmissions and none of them were a$$ bacwards

I would be extremely surprised if Correct Craft went from RH motors with the 1:1, then LH, then back to RH. Like I said, Ive seen a 1:1 '94 with a RH motor and RH prop. It should have the same set up as Randy's '93, which seems consistent with his reverse rotation starter fixing the problem.

actually i talked to one of my guys here and he said he seen one with the pump indexed for a counter rotating engine... except it was a 1.23:1 which output turns opposite of input in forward so that means you would still need a left hand prop, remember i have know way of telling what boats these our out of. and a im just stating facts.   maybe the trans with the pumps going backwards lasts longer? lol