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pulling a 351

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nuttyskier2002 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nuttyskier2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: pulling a 351
    Posted: January-24-2007 at 4:57pm
Just sold the manifold to Jbear. Sent it off today. I have everything else though. Let me know if you need a list. I haven't posted them on the for sale section yet.
95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier

Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2007 at 10:50am
nutty, still have those nice aluminum manifolds   Eric
"the things you own will start to own you"
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huey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote huey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2007 at 9:12am
Nutty, sorry the shop just finished the rebuild on my block the other day. They are now rebuilding my heads too. Hopefully I remember how to get everything back together once they are done.
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nuttyskier2002 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nuttyskier2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-23-2007 at 10:13am
Huey, do you need a set of pistons for your rebuild? I have a set of Keith Black Silvolite Hypereutectic pistons (P/N KB-181) .030 over. They are slightly used but in very good shape. I'm selling all of my Ford parts because I just bought a '95 Malibu powered by a Chevy SB. These pistons have a D-shaped cup that is 22cc and are perfect if you ever plan to upgrade to GT40 or GT40P heads. This combination would yield about 9:1 compression which is just about where you want to be with pump gas.
95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier

Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
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87BFN owner View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 87BFN owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-22-2007 at 7:03pm
why not just bore it and get new pistons for it, or is the block that bad? With bore job you get a couple extra ponies and call it good. But if the block requires sleeving to be usable, I am with everyone else find a different block.
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Munday View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Munday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-21-2007 at 1:45am
I'll take all the pro tec parts,although I agree that its not that good of a system.Still
parts is parts and I'm to cheap to change till I have to....knocking on wood with crossed fingers

Glad you got it out ok.Blocks should be cheap if your already gonna be in it pistons and bore job/I wouldn't resleeve something as common as a 351W either

Good luck Munday
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-16-2007 at 7:01am
I concur, even a brand new 4V-351W iron head long block a$$embled is only 2600 from ford racing, something to put in perspective before expending extra money trying to sleeve a truly unremarkable block that resembles the other millions made.
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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quinner View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-15-2007 at 1:35pm
Also agree on trashing the Pro-tech, if it has not failed yet it probably will soon.
When my 93' failed installed the conversion and it ran better than it did brand new with the Pro-Tech.

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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-15-2007 at 12:50pm
second throwing out the pro-tech system, why are you sleeving the motor? is it an AL block?

if they want to sleeve a cast-iron block, If it was me I would be getting a new block and forget about sleeving it. If it is aluminum then that's fine to sleeve but an iron block, don't think so.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-15-2007 at 6:48am
Originally posted by huey huey wrote:

I just want to make sure that it won't destroy my rebuilt motor.


Just throw the pro-tec in the trash and be done with it.
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole
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huey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote huey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-14-2007 at 6:37pm
Thanks for the help guys. The removal went off without a hitch. I was able to use my friend's marine repair shop and he's got a big overhead hoist. (I still had my fingers and toes crossed while I was pulling the boat out from underneath and getting it lowered down to the stand)
Finally got the engine to the shop the other day. They said the block is saveable after a rebuild including boring and sleeving. The diagnosis is severe detonation. Anybody know where I can get some good troubleshooting and diagnostic info for the Pro-Tec ignition system? I just want to make sure that it won't destroy my rebuilt motor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-18-2006 at 9:44pm
Remove the vertical mountiung nuts (I think they are 1-1/8"). Don't mess with the Aligning bolts that attach the brackets to the stringers. This will help when you put the engine back in.
Use an adjustable hoist if you can. The kind where you can adjust the length of chain to reach the lifting mounts. I can't think of how else to describe it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stang72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-18-2006 at 8:47pm
Huey...What are you using to pull it with?

A couple things....first, scribe a mark across the coupling where the transmission and shaft connect...you will line it up on that mark when putting it back. Second...with anything you need to disconnect, be organized with how you store parts,bolts etc....write on a note pad where things go...electrical etc! Also...as you pull it up...go slow so it does not swing into the side of the bilge!
Once the engine is out...you can lower it down onto an old tire to separate it from the tranny....put some towels down it will loose tranny fluid.
stang



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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-18-2006 at 2:36pm
huey, I almost have this guy talked into selling this ho boss 351, it has the seperate coil packs, it has the pcm valve covers, look in dim catalog... same one
this motor complete minus carb and intake $2000.00 to 2500.00   if interested i'll keep badgering this guy. his transom is rotted and he doesnt understand this and i dont want the liabilities on his boat(long story)
    another guy up in michigan has a brand new drop in (Indmar) complete 3300.00
"the things you own will start to own you"
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huey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote huey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-18-2006 at 1:41pm
Hello all. I posted about a month ago that I had a 351 self-destruct in my '91 SN. I'm just getting around to pulling the motor for inspection and (keeping my fingers crossed) a rebuild. I would appreciate any tips or advice for things to watch out for while pulling the engine. I haven't done this before. So, I don't want to hit any major snags.
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