Surge Brakes Stopped Working

MrMcD: Not sure that would work on my set-up as the actuator slides straight back.



I have a fluid extractor, but it has a rigid hose, so I was unable to attach it to the bleeder.

Wifey helped and once we got the communication right, we got everything bled. Two of the bleeders were clogged, so I had to run a pipe cleaner through them to open them up. The fluid that was coming out was iced tea colored.

The RR took forever and I never really got the fluid to come out nice and clear. The LF was also clogged and pretty much dry.

Once they were all bled, about a little more than an hour later, we finally had brakes. Pads still have plenty of meat on them, so I think I'm good there.

Took the boat to the lake and did some hard stops and they seemed to be working.

Makes me wonder where the fluid went?? I didn't see anything leaking from under the trailer. The lines running through the frame could be leaking I guess, but I'll never know as the fluid would be trapped inside the frame rails.

I'm going to run them for a while and then once it cools off, I'll bleed and flush them again. Looks like I have a leaky bearing seal on the RR as well as there's grease leaking out of it.

Appreciate the help, Hope it lasts.

A one man tool for bleeding boat brakes. I put a receiver in the hitch, slide a bar 1/2 x 12" through the pin hole and add a couple 25 LB weights. It applys the brakes hard enough to lock them with plenty of pressure for bleeding. Note the position of the hitch with 50 lbs of weight applying the brakes, They show about 25% movement and are locking both trailer tires, before bleeding and fixing the master cylinder the weight would make the Atwood slide all the way down to the stop 100% applied and I had no brakes at the wheels.   Now they apply right away and work very well. This method gives you lots of excersize since you have to walk from the tire to the hitch every time to lift it up for the next bleeding but it works for a one man tool.   
Using this method before I rebuilt the Atwood master cylinder I flushed the system and bled the brakes but every time I tried to apply the weight the slider would never hold pressure, it always kept creeping very slowly till it bottomed out 100% applied. This told me the piston was leaking, not holding pressure or I had a leak in one of the wheel clyinders. The wheel cylinders were dry and clean so my leak was the piston/rubber cup in the master cylinder.
Had to clean it up and install a new rubber cup and now it works perfect again.
For trailers with the straight slider, not the Atwood I have used the large wod clamp to apply pressure this same way.

You may as well remove the new fluid that is no longer clean or you will be pumping fluid quite a while to get clean stuff pumped to the rear. Heck if it is that dirty you might think of removing the hydraulic line and pumping untill clean fluid comes out and the resevoir stays clean. No reason to pump dirty fluid into your brake cylinders on purpose.

My bad. I did not bleed the brakes yet. I tried to loosen the bleeders at the calipers and they were a bit stuck. I soaked them with 50/50 ATF and acetone before I went out for the day. I got back a little while ago and I was able to move all of them.

I haven't actually bled them yet as I need a second person and my wife is at work. I'm going to try tomorrow morning.

When I opened the master cylinder, the fluid was very dark and quite low. I went ahead and used a syringe to remove what was in the cup and I filled with fresh DOT 3 fluid.

I cycled the plunger a few times and the fluid became very dark again. It appears the P/S rear is the furthest away, so I'll bleed RR, LR, RF, LF. Hope that's the correct order.

When I cycle the plunger it locks once it's all the way back. I then hit the release and I was able to repeat again. Being that my helper will be my wife. Would the correct procedure be to have her lock the plunger back, then I open the bleeder, then close, then she can release the plunger and repeat this process until clean fluid comes out of the bleeder?

There's a bunch of rust on the top of the master cylinder, but inside looked OK. Here's some pics.

You did not answer the question about bleeding the brakes.
If you have air in the system your actuator is compressing the air which will not apply your trailer brakes.
Before you bleed take a turkey baster and vacuum out any fluid in your brake actuator.
Once the old fluid is out replace it with new brake fluid.
I have a wood clamp that I use to compress the brake actuator. Then I go to the farthest wheel and crack the brake bleed screw. When you crack it you will probably get air spitting out or fluid will drain.   Always tighten the brake bleed screw after this cracking and draining. If you loosen the clamp and let the actuator release while the screw is open it will suck air back into your brake system and eliminat your progress towards bleeding.
This job is easier with two people. One to clamp and release and one at the wheel to crack and bleed.   It helps to put a small clear hose on the brake bleeder so the drained fluid spills into a container and does not make a mess.
Keep in mind brake fluid, Dot 3 or Dot 4 is one of the best paint removers ever invented, it will take your paint off in a very short time so keep a little soapy water and a rag handy for quick clean up of any spills.
This is a slow process, allow an hour or more. Each time you tighten the actuator and crack the bleeder you will get a small amount of air or brake fluid out. Keep doing this till you get clean fluid with no air and no spitting. This may take 15-20 tries to get clean fluid with no air to the farthest wheel.
Once the farthest brake line is flowing clean fluid you now have to do the other 3 the same way.   Each of these will bleed much faster, maybe 4-6 tries because you already have clean fluid in the actuator and the lines. When all 4 are bled and have zero air your brakes should be working like brand new.   Remember if your helper releases the actuator while you have the bleeder open air will suck in and you will be starting over to get that air out.
There are also vacuum bleeders and pressure bleeders you can buy to help speed up this process but the above describes a method anyone can do for free if they have a helper and an hour to work on it.

Did you bleed the system yet?
Is it possible they have not worked since you have owned it? Do you see any pad movement? Do the pads look warn past the wear indicators? Do you see any movement at the pads?
Here is a link with some break down pics and apparently a link to rebuild kits (did not follow it though)
http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=783173