Starting Gel Coat Restoration |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: April-26-2020 at 1:32pm |
In my defense I’ve been out of work for 8 years- it’s either have fancy GFCI’s or eat cat food |
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Canuck-Surfer
Senior Member Joined: September-14-2019 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 222 |
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Just a corrections. 3M wants you to dry sand with Purple P800 (disk is not rated for wet sanding). And then wetsand with Trizact P1500.
Here is their video: 3M Marine Gelcoat Restoration Professoinal System I really would love to hear a story of someone who followed their SOP exactly. I am inclined to follow 3M's instructions, but they seem contrary to everything else historically available online! |
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1996 Sport Nautique GT40 EFI
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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My shop outlets are protected with Sq. D QO GFCI's You're the one buying the junk from HF! |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Won't go anywhere because of the CCP virus but you'll stand in water with a import GFCI
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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I totally agree and I too have never heard about "wet" sanding dry. I have no problems with electric and water. Use a GFCI. |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Got no idea about no water. Water washes away the contaminants and keeps the paper from loading up. I have that same exact buffer but it is labeled Griots never thought to use it as a sander and not a big fan of using water with electric. I have air and had picked up a color sander from Harbor Freight. Went through two until I got one that worked but it did the job.
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Canuck-Surfer
Senior Member Joined: September-14-2019 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 222 |
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As always, thanks for the advice Gary! So after a few more hours of online research, it appears that 3M recommends not wet sanding but DRY sanding with their Purple P800 followed by their Trizact P1500. See here: http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1360887O/professional-sop.pdf Everything I've read says to wet sand gelcoat, but 3M says otherwise. Thoughts? I don't have an air compressor so I'm leaning towards the Shurhold DA 3100. They have a good video on the wet sanding process using their DA: Hot to wetsand your boat What's funny is that in the video they use a combination of 3M 260L, 3M purple and Mikra Microstar sanding discs for wet sanding. But if you look up the specs for all 3 products, they ALL are clearly labeled for DRY sanding only. So basically I'm confused. Its this just new sanding tech we need to embrace with no water?!! |
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1996 Sport Nautique GT40 EFI
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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You talking an air powered DA? The trouble with a DA is the orbit is too large,what you really need would be a Hutchins water bug III. They have a 3/32 orbit and are made to color sand and sand gelcoat. They are not cheap but your time is worth something.
You will need two different devices sander is optional the polisher is mandatory. Removing the rub rail is one of those mission creep things,I would tape it off first and see how the gel turns out first unless your going to replace it anyway. The original rub rail might fit you'd have to check the spec's of the new rail. One thing for sure it's most likely faded- that you will see as soon as you start taking it out. As to supplies just google them but get the pads that 3m recommends for that particular compound |
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Canuck-Surfer
Senior Member Joined: September-14-2019 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 222 |
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Thanks Gary! So I've read and searched for the last few days. There is only 1 gelcoat thread pinned to the FAQ. It was a good read but still doesn't address all my questions. Here are my latest questions I'd love to have some input on from you guys. 1) I am going to assume for now that due to the state of the gelcoat, I need start with wet sanding. I plan to start with 800. There are a number of threads on hulltruth and iboats about wet sanding with a DA or random orbital sander. I will need to buy one. I am also looking to buy a rotary polisher like the Dewalt DW847 for the rubbing cmpd/buffing steps. Do I really need to invest in 2 devices or is there an acceptable tool that will adequately handle both jobs? 2) I'm guessing I should remove the rub rail to do this right. Will the original teal insert work in new rubrail? Insert appears to be in good condition. 3) Any favorite online retailers to order buffing disks and 3M 3-step product from? |
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1996 Sport Nautique GT40 EFI
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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To remove pin stripes and smaller decals these work good-link
Large decals you can use a heat gun or hair drier but you don't want to over heat. Acetone can be used to remove adhesive too. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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FAQ tread in the maintenance section |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21184 |
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There are several good threads, too much detail to repeat. Check the pinned section on the commonly asked questions.
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Canuck-Surfer
Senior Member Joined: September-14-2019 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 222 |
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Any input anyone?
In case my question was too broad, I'll narrow down my gel coat questions after reading more on other sites. 1) Based on pictures of how bad the oxidation is, what grit wetsand paper should I start with? Is 800 okay or should I go to 400 or 600. 2) Is block sanding the only way? Can you mechanically wet sand with proper equipment. If yes, what is the "proper equipment"? 3) Where is the best place and price to get the 3M products? 4) Is any 2000 rpm range orbital buffer okay? Any recommendations on brands/prices? 5) What is the best way to get the current pin stripes and decals off. I read about oven cleaner...but it didn't explain how to use it. Do you just spray it on and use your fingers to try to pull the decals/stripes off? Do you use a tool? How long do you let it sit? As I said before, if there are previous threads that I am missing in my searching that answer these questions and give clear how to, let me know. I don't want to double post, but my searching isn't finding what I am looking for. |
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1996 Sport Nautique GT40 EFI
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Canuck-Surfer
Senior Member Joined: September-14-2019 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 222 |
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You guys may have noticed all the posts this week, with the weather warming up and on virus lockdown, I'm really trying to get my 96 Sport restoration moving along. Engine got rebuilt over the winter and is ready to get reassembled and dropped back in.
I want to start the gelcoat restoration in a few weeks so I want to get my head around it now and start ordering materials. I've searched through the forum at various gelcoat threads. Is there a definitive step-by-step post I've yet to find? I've not done anything with gelcoat before. Ive read various posts on different steps/grits of wet sanding, and also the change recently in 3M's product once you get to buffing. I really need help on what grit to start with. I don't want to loose my mind with this project so I am willing to invest in the correct tools. Can I use some sort of orbital or hand sander for the wetsanding, or does it have to be done by block hand sanding? Anyone care to create a simple instruction list based on 2020 recommendations or point me to a thread that has this? In my case, the oxidation is VERY severe and the gel has some scratches that will need repairing. The decals and pin striping are also bad and broken, so I need to figure out the best way to remove all of that first! Here are some pics of the boat last fall before the engine got pulled. I welcome your input, you guys are awesome! |
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